Right, I'd really like to repaint Movie SS in G1 Tracks colours. The character and the overall look really remind me of Track, except for the whole skating thing, but the rest works.

 

I'll be using my Binaltech Tracks as a guide. I have a fair amount of experience painting miniatures, but I've never tried to paint a TF. I've got a selection of acrylic model paints (Citadel), but I know these cane asily rub off.

 

So, question 1. Should I find enamels to use instead? Or maybe just get a coat of gloss varnish or something?

 

Question 2. Is it work stripping the model down first with some paint remover, or just painting straight over the original colours? I was planning on a black undercoat, then building the blue up in a number of thin layers.

 

Question 3. I've seen that for repaints it's a good idea to take the toy apart first. Is there an easy way to do with or does it just come down to pulling/unscrewing things?

Diggin' the idea.

 

I imagine Citadel would work fine, you'd just have to find something to seal the paint w/an airbrush. (perhaps? I'm not too clear on Citadel paints, as I've never used them before.) Generally, I use Testors enamels when I do my paint work. (though, lately I've been lazy and using permanent markers, which those rub off fairly easily.)

 

As for question 2, I've seen folks recommend giving the toy a bath of soap and water, let dry, then go to town on painting. (though, I don't follow this, and usually just go to town the paints. haha. :redface )

 

Question 3, there's also another option of using blue painter's tape and just painting the figure assembled.

 

Hope these bits and pieces of advice I've picked up over the year's will help you out. :thumb

 

Tracks was one of my favorites as a kid, so I might give this one a shot, too.

Right, I'd really like to repaint Movie SS in G1 Tracks colours. The character and the overall look really remind me of Track, except for the whole skating thing, but the rest works.

 

I'll be using my Binaltech Tracks as a guide. I have a fair amount of experience painting miniatures, but I've never tried to paint a TF. I've got a selection of acrylic model paints (Citadel), but I know these cane asily rub off.

 

So, question 1. Should I find enamels to use instead? Or maybe just get a coat of gloss varnish or something?

Don't use enamels. They can destroy many plastics (particularly Styrene), and don't cure on many types of plastic, particularly urethan and rubberized plastics. My suggestion is to clear coat your finalized paint job with Future floor polish. Many kitbashers swear by it. It creates a hard, durable shell the is supposed to be extremely resistant to chipping. I haven't had the opportunity to try it myself simply because I can't find it in my area, but many kitbashers swear by it.

 

Question 2. Is it work stripping the model down first with some paint remover, or just painting straight over the original colours? I was planning on a black undercoat, then building the blue up in a number of thin layers.

If you're giving it a black base-coat, I wouldn't bother stripping it. I would recommend masking off the windows and light piping though.

 

Question 3. I've seen that for repaints it's a good idea to take the toy apart first. Is there an easy way to do with or does it just come down to pulling/unscrewing things?

I definitely recommend disassembly before painting. It does, without question, make it easier to paint the model. It isn't easy though. parts held together by screws are easy, as are the ball joints, which can simply be popped apart. The trick is when there are pins. Those are the tricky parts, though there are techniques to pulling them too. It takes great care though. so be warned.

Well, lemme start by saying, there's a Red Sideswipe on it's way out. Pics should be online within a day or 2. So this might void out your need to do such a custom.

 

Don't use enamels. They can destroy many plastics (particularly Styrene), and don't cure on many types of plastic, particularly urethan and rubberized plastics. My suggestion is to clear coat your finalized paint job with Future floor polish. Many kitbashers swear by it. It creates a hard, durable shell the is supposed to be extremely resistant to chipping. I haven't had the opportunity to try it myself simply because I can't find it in my area, but many kitbashers swear by it.

 

I use nothing but lacquers and enamels. Whenever I read enamels "damage plastic"...I laugh. With over 150 customs painted in the past year (100% of them commissioner and/or ebay) I can safely vouch that enamel paint doesn't "eat plastic" There are easy steps to take to allow enamels to cure on the softer (rubbery) plastics. Sideswipe doesn't have any soft plastic you should worry about anyway. I also stay FAR away from future whenever possible. Enamels aren't going to give you a glossy finish, in fact 99% of my enamels are matte finish. You want a glossy finish? Buy some Testor's 1/2 can sized gloss coat, it's $3-$5 USD and does the job much better than Future floor polish. I've used Future before, but it chips and is weak against play, wear and tear.

 

Use a good primer. I swear by Kyrlon's Fusion paints. These are found at most walmarts, ace hardware and other stores. There's an entire plethora of colors. This paint is chemically engineered to bond to plastic.

Sideswipe was an "easier" Deluxe for me to paint, not many hidden parts, so I didn't bother taking him apart other than his chest and arms. (good luck figuring out how to dismantle the legs if you choose to go this route)

 

Well, lemme start by saying, there's a Red Sideswipe on it's way out. Pics should be online within a day or 2. So this might void out your need to do such a custom.

 

Don't use enamels. They can destroy many plastics (particularly Styrene), and don't cure on many types of plastic, particularly urethan and rubberized plastics. My suggestion is to clear coat your finalized paint job with Future floor polish. Many kitbashers swear by it. It creates a hard, durable shell the is supposed to be extremely resistant to chipping. I haven't had the opportunity to try it myself simply because I can't find it in my area, but many kitbashers swear by it.

 

I use nothing but lacquers and enamels. Whenever I read enamels "damage plastic"...I laugh. With over 150 customs painted in the past year (100% of them commissioner and/or ebay) I can safely vouch that enamel paint doesn't "eat plastic" There are easy steps to take to allow enamels to cure on the softer (rubbery) plastics. Sideswipe doesn't have any soft plastic you should worry about anyway. I also stay FAR away from future whenever possible. Enamels aren't going to give you a glossy finish, in fact 99% of my enamels are matte finish. You want a glossy finish? Buy some Testor's 1/2 can sized gloss coat, it's $3-$5 USD and does the job much better than Future floor polish. I've used Future before, but it chips and is weak against play, wear and tear.

 

Use a good primer. I swear by Kyrlon's Fusion paints. These are found at most walmarts, ace hardware and other stores. There's an entire plethora of colors. This paint is chemically engineered to bond to plastic.

Sideswipe was an "easier" Deluxe for me to paint, not many hidden parts, so I didn't bother taking him apart other than his chest and arms. (good luck figuring out how to dismantle the legs if you choose to go this route)

 

 

 

This man knows what he's on about. Just look at his work if you want proof

 

As for how to go about making a repaint though, it's all about finding a way of doing it that you like, not what others do. Me , I personally use citadel acrylics and let them cure for a good hour between each coat to make sure they won't chip s o easily. Saying that though, some parts on most TF's definitely need to be prepared before painting, like parts that rub a lot. Most of them need sanding slightly.

 

Which ever way you decide to go with this custom I hope that you first of all enjoy doing it, and secocndly that you keep as posted as to how it goes.

 

PC

F/R, Enamels bond to plastics by eating into them and chemically bonding to them. They dissolve the top layer of plastic and bond with it at the molecular level. That weakens the plastic. If the plastic is thin enough already, it'll go right through it. ABS is more tolerant of it, but other plastics are not, particularly styrene.

You can't convince me, I've painted almost every type of plastic many times. I constantly use styrene and never had a problem. Maybe my enamel paints are magic.

Without starting the inevitable enamel/acrylic debate, I use and prefer enamels over acrylics any day of the week. If I couldn't use enamels, I'd stop making customs.

F/R, Enamels bond to plastics by eating into them and chemically bonding to them. They dissolve the top layer of plastic and bond with it at the molecular level. That weakens the plastic. If the plastic is thin enough already, it'll go right through it. ABS is more tolerant of it, but other plastics are not, particularly styrene.

 

Dude, your trying to convince the guy who makes customs better then God made humans. Thats just a clever quip I whipped up, not a proclaimed belief in God :P. Anyways, listen to what F_R says. He can't steer you wrong. I used the guides on his website to make a few of my customs (testors enamel paints, magnet joints, etc).

F/R, Enamels bond to plastics by eating into them and chemically bonding to them. They dissolve the top layer of plastic and bond with it at the molecular level. That weakens the plastic. If the plastic is thin enough already, it'll go right through it. ABS is more tolerant of it, but other plastics are not, particularly styrene.

 

Dude, your trying to convince the guy who makes customs better then God made humans. Thats just a clever quip I whipped up, not a proclaimed belief in God :P. Anyways, listen to what F_R says. He can't steer you wrong. I used the guides on his website to make a few of my customs (testors enamel paints, magnet joints, etc).

 

Thanks for the support Breaker. Glad my tutorials help you out. I have a "revamp" for my site coming soon, which will go into great depth different processes/technique in customs.

F/R, Enamels bond to plastics by eating into them and chemically bonding to them. They dissolve the top layer of plastic and bond with it at the molecular level. That weakens the plastic. If the plastic is thin enough already, it'll go right through it. ABS is more tolerant of it, but other plastics are not, particularly styrene.

 

Dude, your trying to convince the guy who makes customs better then God made humans. Thats just a clever quip I whipped up, not a proclaimed belief in God :P. Anyways, listen to what F_R says. He can't steer you wrong. I used the guides on his website to make a few of my customs (testors enamel paints, magnet joints, etc).

I have to disagree with you on that. He's a good repainter, but I know several other kitbashers who are a lot better.