I think I'll see if there's a long, slender tip available for my iron.  That would make pin removal a LOT easier than my current method of heating the pin then trying to get it out before it starts cooling down again.

 

It would be especially useful on pins I can't really get to, like the flaps on Meister's chassis that form his abdomen.

Yo DLP... if you can't find a tip that would work you could /always/ make one.

I recently removed the pins from the hood of Swindle when I was working on Trailbreaker.  You only need a few things: a finishing nail, a hammer, a block of wood, and patience.

 

The first thing to look for is what side of the pin you want to remove it from.  One side of the pin has a checkered end that locks it into the plastic (Sometime it's in the middle, but it's usually the ends).  The plastic around the checkered end usually looks a lot rougher than the clean side.  Once you find the clean side, you want to push the pin out from this direction.  Place the rough side as tightly as you can against the block.  This is sometimes tricky, especially with the Jeep mold, so you might have to use a good corner of the block.  And if anyone you know than can help, it's hand to have someone hold the Alt against the block.  Then place the finishing nail against the pin on the clean side, and gently tap, DON'T HIT, the pin.  You might want hammer down the point of the nail just a bit to give it a flatter surface.  Just keep tapping the pin out until you see the checkered area and have enough of the pin exposed to grab onto with a pair of pliers.  Finally, use the pliers to pull the pin all the way out.  I've done it many time and it works like a charm.

 

I find the hot pin trick works extremely well for pins that have a head on them, like wheel pins, or pins than you can't get to from one side.  I haven't found a punch yet that I thought would work very well.  If someone find one I'd be bery interested in getting one.  Most are tapered so you can't drive the pin very far.  The nails nice because if you get one the same size as the pin, it'll drive the pin right out.

 

Hope this helps.

I've noticed that a lot of pins have ribs on them for the entire length of the pin, notably the Armada jets and Energon ShockWAVE. I don't think it would be possible to push these out without heat. Sometimes I've found it best to heat the pin and then pry the plastic pieces apart so that the ribs don't make a huge hole in the visible part of the plastic.

Cool, thanks again everyone. I'm going to try the "tapping" out method first. Hopefully it works. If it doesn't I'll have to get myself a soldering iron and try that. And Azure, to answer your question, it's actually going to be a replica of my real Jeep. (or at least close to it) Hardtop, bigger tires, snowplow and all. I've made just about all the changes/mods. to the Alt. I just have to paint it (hate painting) As soon as I'm done I'll post some pics. Once again thanks to EVERYONE that offered help.

Ok, I think I found something.

 

 

It's a Roll Pin Punch.  Get 1/16" or a #4 size.  Looking around online it's about $5.

Should be available at any hardware store or automotive store. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Lobo

Hey everyone, got the pins out and I am now in the process of priming everything, and getting ready for paint. If anyone is interested, I used Lobo's method, (post #13) and it worked like a charm! I actually used a: Proto Brand - 50-3/16 Starting punch (this is the actual label on packaging) On the TOOL it reads: 50-3/16 PROTO 1/16 PT. It tapers to a 1/16 FLAT TIP punch. Had no probs removing pins! Thanks to everyone that helped  :thumb Will post pics as soon as I'm finished.