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Dark_Lord_Prime

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Everything posted by Dark_Lord_Prime

  1. As far as I can tell (after a quick Google search), they don't make Top Job anymore.
  2. Ok, I did a search, but didn't get any results that addressed this, so.. I'm working on restoring a couple Transformers with damaged chrome, and it's proving to be a pain to remove. Do any of you have any suggestions for easily removing the chrome paint without damaging the plastic?
  3. My TFA Bumblebee's face had its black outline applied sloppily, so there was some on his cheek and in both his eyes. I have tried and failed to take his head apart, as it's not only screwed together, but they used some ridiculously strong glue. The usual methods of warming it to soften the glue and slipping something thin (hobby knife blade, etc) in the seam didn't work. Trying to pry it apart only succeeded in damaging the edges of the seam. Have any of you managed to take one apart? If so, how??
  4. Grindcore: Thanks!

    BaCon: Buh?

    Nakashima: Done and done! :D

  5. "And then, oh mighty Megatron, I shall be leader of the Decepticons!
  6. Does anyone know if there are ANY 1:24 (or even 1:25) scale model kits of the International CXT? I have searched and searched, and all I've been able to find are huge R/C toy versions and tiny Hot Wheels/Matchbox versions. I -really- wanna make a custom Alt Optimus Prime from one, but first I have to find a model kit. Any leads (company name, online/bricks-and-mortar location to find one, etc) would be VERY appreciated!
  7. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 YES!! YES!! YESSSSSSS!!!!! [edit] I received my TFU Spychanger Laser Prime and another reissue Tracks in the mail this morning! :D [/edit]
  8. Commemorative Edition Prowl, Magmatron and Primal Prime arrived today! :D :D :D
  9. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5982705766
  10. Convoy676 & Xamot, here ya go: http://www.tfmaster.com/articles.php
  11. From AutobotWonko, I got an MI(S?)B (haven't pulled it out of the shipping box yet, so not sure about the S) Energon Scorponok, BW Ramulas and BW Spittor. From Wal*Mart, I picked up Energon Stormcloud, Windrazor and Terradive! My gestalts are now teh completed!!!!! :D I can move on to Cybertron now. :clap :yay :clap :yay
  12. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MEWA:IT In the center of that auction's picture, there is a Cosmos in a clear cube. THAT is the type of cube I'm talking about, but with a 6th side to glue into place after the cube is filled. You would think Hobby Lobby would sell that sort of thing for making paperweights and whatnot, but damned if I can find 'em there..
  13. Ok, WV (or anybody else who can help)... Any idea where I can find clear, plastic cubes? Like, a little cube that you can fill with stuff, then glue the side shut to make a paperweight, or something? I looked all over my Hobby Lobby, and could not find anything like this. I'm actually thinking about trying to cut up a CD case and building my own, but that plastic is a teense thinner than I'd really like. Also, some kind of "slime," like the stuff that came with the He-Man Slime PIt, but in pearlescent colors (preferably pink-ish) would be helpful. (yes, I'm wanting to build Energon cubes. :P)
  14. CD jewel-cases and the "for sale" signs you can buy at the store are made of styrene. :thumb
  15. Just a quick spray-painting tip: I like to use a small-to-medium-sized cardboard box when I spray-paint. I place the box on its side, put the parts in the box (preferably so they won't tip over later or jostle around too much), spray 'em, then close the flaps and prop them shut (place the box against a wall with something heavy behind it to keep the flaps closed). The spray forces dust back out of the box, and keeping the flaps closed keeps new dust from getting in. This resulted in my Beast Machines Arcee (Blackarachnia repaint) parts having a nice, smooth finish. I'm doing it right now with my Alt Prowl (Meister redeco), and the first parts (painted with Krylon Fusion Gloss Black) are looking real nice. :thumb In a related vein, I found that while hand-painting the triangle part of my Alt Jazz's hood, placing it in a small box and spraying canned air into it while closing it had a similar effect. The canned air blew dust out of the box and kept dust from getting back in while I closed it, so the gloss black finish ended up smooth and shiny.
  16. glad to hear it! That's exactly what happened with the first wheel I took off of e-Prime's "skirt" piece! I didn't even realize what had happened until I looked again and saw the pin was still in place, but the wheel wasn't damaged. :lol
  17. Great to deal with: :thumb Ol' Timer :thumb ShadowJin
  18. AutobotLoki brought up a good point in another thread: On his legs: if you mean the pin holding the red to the black, I'd suggest using a small, flat-head screwdriver to pry the black from the red while you're heating the pin. Just don't force it, and don't press down on the pin with the iron; rather, just touch the tip to the pin so the heat can transfer. Same thing with the shoulder pins, it looks like, except the gap is tighter. You can either try wedging the small screwdriver in the gap (gently, if at all possible, so as to avoid scarring up the plastic), and prying little by little with the pin being heated. Or, you could try holding it so the pin is facing down, then hold the iron against the pin lightly, so it will slide out on its own (at least far enough that you can get the screwdriver in more easily). This technique may avoid scarring the shoulder's plastic, but could possibly result in warping the pin-hole if done wrong. I did this with one of e-Prime's wheels when I was testing the hot-pin idea, and it doesn't appear to have done any damage to the hole, but there's always the possibility. Of course, the possibility of damaging something while working on a kitbash is always there, right? Good luck!
  19. Oops? Didn't I say something about two innovations? Guess I did. ;) This is really just an extension of the hinge-pin removal trick. But, it solves (for me, at least) a problem that plagues kitbashers across the board: those damned WHEEL-PINS! Using the same basic concept of heating the pin to release it from the plastic, I've successfully removed all four wheels from Energon Deluxe Prime's skirt/butt-plate: Now, I -did- nick the inner part of a couple of the wheels with the hot iron's tip, but they're very minor, and this is scrap parts anyway, so I'm not real concerned. The experiment was the important bit. :thumb The main problem for me was getting a decent grip on the part so I could hold the screwdriver in place and still manage to apply force on it to push the pin while holding the iron to it. How you can best use this technique depends on how much access you have to the wheel's pin, and how well you can utilize that access. For this, the ends of the pins are exposed on the inside of the trailer piece, so the driver was placed into their holes and the pins pushed outward. It may be possible to pull the wheel out as you heat the pin, but I'll be looking into that later, for other projects.
  20. Well, thank you kindly! As my first act as a contributing editor, I'll just offer up my latest two innovations: As you all (probably) know, Battle-in-a-Box Ultra Magnus has issues with his "sleeves". (the parts that cover his fists) Specifically, the fact that his sleeves are on the wrong arms, thus stopping him from using his elbows. Now, the fix for this is to remove the elbow hinge-pins. This can be a b**tch, 'cause those pins are designed to stay right where they are (wouldn't be good if the elbows went falling apart when you tried to transform--or even pose--the figure, eh?). Traditionally(?), the way to get those pins out is by bracing the piece well, and taking a tiny screw-driver or other "pin-punch" tool and a hammer and tapping the pin through. This, as you may know, is difficult, especially if you can't find a way to brace the part properly. Tonight, I removed said pins in record time, without any tapping at all! For my particular case, I used my spiffy new soldering iron (straight, pen-type). Touch the heated iron to the end of the pin (CAREFULLY! Unless you -want- to melt the plastic, that is.), and press down gently, until the pin starts to slip through. Then, replace the iron with your pin-pushing tool and press down on the pin while touching the iron to the other end of the pin. After a few seconds, the pin will slide out perfectly, and the plastic won't be damaged enough to make any difference (good as it was before, basically, 'cause the hot pin only softens up enough to release the pin, and immediately cools again when the pin is free)! All you have to do now is switch the sleeves, put the hinge back together--quick squeeze with pliers should do it, if you can't push the pin back in with your fingers--and voila! Teh poseable arms!
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