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Everything posted by Dark_Lord_Prime

  1. So, I've spent my free time the last two nights painting detail apps. :D I think I need to do another coat or two on a couple things, then I have to decide how I'm gonna handle the flame decal for the hood, and then he'll be ready for the gloss-coat. (I tested the brush-paints I used for these detail apps with the ultra-gloss lacquer, it it worked beautifully, so that's good to go! :) ) Here's the rear window(s), all glossy black: And the windshield: Nose and tail (I decided the spaces under the headlights are turn signals, and the space inside the newly-chromed tailpip
  2. I'm baaaaaaaaaaack! Didja miss me? :D After many, many months of having no room/resources to 'bash, I finally started a new project (and hope to return to my unfinished ones ASAP)! I finally got my hands on a Reveal The Shield Turbo Tracks (who shall henceforth simply be called "Tracks," 'cause I hate that stupid "Turbo" name :P ), and promptly set out to remove that ugly "tribal flame" thing from his hood. I got some acrylic paint remover, and managed to destroy the finish on his hood (turns out, that stuff doesn't play well with plastic. >_>). So, I headed back to Hobby
  3. As far as I can tell (after a quick Google search), they don't make Top Job anymore.
  4. Ok, I did a search, but didn't get any results that addressed this, so.. I'm working on restoring a couple Transformers with damaged chrome, and it's proving to be a pain to remove. Do any of you have any suggestions for easily removing the chrome paint without damaging the plastic?
  5. My TFA Bumblebee's face had its black outline applied sloppily, so there was some on his cheek and in both his eyes. I have tried and failed to take his head apart, as it's not only screwed together, but they used some ridiculously strong glue. The usual methods of warming it to soften the glue and slipping something thin (hobby knife blade, etc) in the seam didn't work. Trying to pry it apart only succeeded in damaging the edges of the seam. Have any of you managed to take one apart? If so, how??
  6. Grindcore: Thanks!

    BaCon: Buh?

    Nakashima: Done and done! :D

  7. "And then, oh mighty Megatron, I shall be leader of the Decepticons!
  8. Wants: Armada Big Prime - junker or just his legs will do Energon Deluxe Prime's rifle BW Torca Fin Gun BW Cheetor/Tigatron tail-gun Haves: Too much to list. If you have something I need (see above), PM me with what you're looking for and I'll look through my stuff, or let me know how much you want and I'll just pay you. Thanks for looking!
  9. Does anyone know if there are ANY 1:24 (or even 1:25) scale model kits of the International CXT? I have searched and searched, and all I've been able to find are huge R/C toy versions and tiny Hot Wheels/Matchbox versions. I -really- wanna make a custom Alt Optimus Prime from one, but first I have to find a model kit. Any leads (company name, online/bricks-and-mortar location to find one, etc) would be VERY appreciated!
  10. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 YES!! YES!! YESSSSSSS!!!!! [edit] I received my TFU Spychanger Laser Prime and another reissue Tracks in the mail this morning! :D [/edit]
  11. Commemorative Edition Prowl, Magmatron and Primal Prime arrived today! :D :D :D
  12. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5982705766
  13. Convoy676 & Xamot, here ya go: http://www.tfmaster.com/articles.php
  14. From AutobotWonko, I got an MI(S?)B (haven't pulled it out of the shipping box yet, so not sure about the S) Energon Scorponok, BW Ramulas and BW Spittor. From Wal*Mart, I picked up Energon Stormcloud, Windrazor and Terradive! My gestalts are now teh completed!!!!! :D I can move on to Cybertron now. :clap :yay :clap :yay
  15. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MEWA:IT In the center of that auction's picture, there is a Cosmos in a clear cube. THAT is the type of cube I'm talking about, but with a 6th side to glue into place after the cube is filled. You would think Hobby Lobby would sell that sort of thing for making paperweights and whatnot, but damned if I can find 'em there..
  16. Ok, WV (or anybody else who can help)... Any idea where I can find clear, plastic cubes? Like, a little cube that you can fill with stuff, then glue the side shut to make a paperweight, or something? I looked all over my Hobby Lobby, and could not find anything like this. I'm actually thinking about trying to cut up a CD case and building my own, but that plastic is a teense thinner than I'd really like. Also, some kind of "slime," like the stuff that came with the He-Man Slime PIt, but in pearlescent colors (preferably pink-ish) would be helpful. (yes, I'm wanting to buil
  17. CD jewel-cases and the "for sale" signs you can buy at the store are made of styrene. :thumb
  18. Just a quick spray-painting tip: I like to use a small-to-medium-sized cardboard box when I spray-paint. I place the box on its side, put the parts in the box (preferably so they won't tip over later or jostle around too much), spray 'em, then close the flaps and prop them shut (place the box against a wall with something heavy behind it to keep the flaps closed). The spray forces dust back out of the box, and keeping the flaps closed keeps new dust from getting in. This resulted in my Beast Machines Arcee (Blackarachnia repaint) parts having a nice, smooth finish. I'm doing
  19. glad to hear it! That's exactly what happened with the first wheel I took off of e-Prime's "skirt" piece! I didn't even realize what had happened until I looked again and saw the pin was still in place, but the wheel wasn't damaged. :lol
  20. Great to deal with: :thumb Ol' Timer :thumb ShadowJin
  21. AutobotLoki brought up a good point in another thread: On his legs: if you mean the pin holding the red to the black, I'd suggest using a small, flat-head screwdriver to pry the black from the red while you're heating the pin. Just don't force it, and don't press down on the pin with the iron; rather, just touch the tip to the pin so the heat can transfer. Same thing with the shoulder pins, it looks like, except the gap is tighter. You can either try wedging the small screwdriver in the gap (gently, if at all possible, so as to avoid scarring up the plastic), and prying little by
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