But what about that horribly failed first-try on Ironhide I've seen; where he tried to paint him red?

 

Wasn't that done with acrylics?

 

I don't want to damage BB in a way that'll make him nigh-impossible to fix...

Hands are of a Gundam kit.

 

 

Ok...so which one? Theres like a million gundam kits out there.

 

 

Rat: Most people tend to use acrylics and enamels on transformers.

Well, it's probably part of the 1/100 MasterGrade series. The Gundam Wing Ver. Ka, for example, has individually poseable fingers like this Bumblebee has.

Acrylics wont make it look bad,thats what most of us use. Some use enamels, just as good, slower drying but colorfast. If you saw a bad paintjob, thats what it was. Not ripping anybody but some are b etter than others. SonRay uses enamels and he is damn good, I've seen acrylic work almost as good too. Just experiment on some scrap and find out what is best for you to use, thats the best advice I EVER got.

But what about that horribly failed first-try on Ironhide I've seen; where he tried to paint him red?

 

Wasn't that done with acrylics?

 

I don't want to damage BB in a way that'll make him nigh-impossible to fix...

 

 

That was mine, and yes it was painted in acrylics and it looked great until i tried to transform it, then the acrylics chipped off. The paint app was perfect, the toy was prepped fine before the paint was applied as well. The acrylic paint just didn't have what it took to hold up against wear and tear that transformer toys receive during each transformation, thats why i tend not to use them on an entire body anymore. I stripped all the acrylic off and repainted the toy with car paint. Guess what? Nothing chipped off like it did with the acrylic.

Same goes for enamels, they are slightly better but they will still chip off, and take forever to dry and can be a pain in the butt to work with, but they give better results overall compared to acrylics.

 

I tend to prefer to use car paint with an airbrush. Out of all my experiences with these different paints, car paint has proved to be the best for me. Im used to painting real size cars though, so i find using car paint with an airbrush much easier than slapping some matte acrylics over something and hoping for the best. Thats just my preference though, even if some idiots will make fun of me and claim that car paint is the worst thing to use on toys, but these are usually just uneducated flame attacks. So don't let anyone tell you any different if you know something works for you.

 

Like Archbee said just experiment. Thats how i learned that car paint was the best thing to use for me. You will have lots of trial and error (mostly error) but sooner or later you'll crack it and you'll have a preferred medium you can use and you'll be fine.

Acrylics and enamels won't chip if applied properly.

it really depends on the quality of paint that you use. I've painted with both and find enamel to be superior, and acrylics inferior.

 

primer is key. if you're not using a plastic intended primer, you may as well not even prime.

 

most acrylics will dry to the touch in 10 minutes, and cure in 3-4 days.

most enamels will dry to the touch in 30 minutes, and cure in 6-7 days.

 

pick up some model intended paints either acrylic or enamel, and see which works best for you. Don't take some shmuck's advice without trying for yourself. but to knock on a fashion of paint while doing it improperly, is uneducated.

 

most artists use acrylics, and some enamels. most have tried both. do that first, and you'll answer your own question.

well, I have a lot of experience with acrylics (been painting since my freshman year now... and was in Art all through high school), so I'm comfortable with my abilities there (was already gonna use that in the deepened recesses of BB's headlights on this sculpt, as there'd be no chance of abrasion), but I've only dabbled in car paint...

 

Can it be hand-painted?

And isn't enamel essentially nail polish?

 

And sonray, I hope you know I both (a) didn't know it was your Ironhide until it was too late (found out late last night), and (b) meant in no way any disrespect...

 

I'm looking to attack this sculpt with two new ideas of mine (one of which will hopefully improve the look of his chest a decent amount)

 

*anybody else have problems with their insignia panel in his chest not staying up -- any fix for this?*

 

So I'm mainly looking for a paint that you guys think is what this painter used to replicate the rust & chipping effect.

 

Thanks for all your help people.

yep. essentially nail polish contains some of the checmicals of enamel paint. but think about it....women (and maybe men who posted in this thread) paint their nails with it, so it's not as harmful as the rumors claim.

well, I have a lot of experience with acrylics (been painting since my freshman year now... and was in Art all through high school), so I'm comfortable with my abilities there (was already gonna use that in the deepened recesses of BB's headlights on this sculpt, as there'd be no chance of abrasion), but I've only dabbled in car paint...

 

Can it be hand-painted?

And isn't enamel essentially nail polish?

 

And sonray, I hope you know I both (a) didn't know it was your Ironhide until it was too late (found out late last night), and (b) meant in no way any disrespect...

 

I'm looking to attack this sculpt with two new ideas of mine (one of which will hopefully improve the look of his chest a decent amount)

 

*anybody else have problems with their insignia panel in his chest not staying up -- any fix for this?*

 

So I'm mainly looking for a paint that you guys think is what this painter used to replicate the rust & chipping effect.

 

Thanks for all your help people.

 

No your fine, i didn't take offense to your comment or anything, i just wanted to clarify especially since people seem to think acrylics can do no wrong when infact they can ruin a whole project.

 

I reckon this artist probably used enamels. The paint looks like it wont be going anywhere, it appears tough and durable and those two words dont appear when acrylics are involved IMO. It also looks as if he has used real car body filler on it too, thats a nice touch for added realism. I dont know of any fix to the chest plate logo section staying in place, its just one of those things you need to live with as it needs to be able to move around otherwise it wont transform.

 

As for applying car paint by hand....i wouldn't recommend it. That will just defeat the purpose of using car paint, to get the best smoothest, real car metal-like finish possible. What i do is paint all the large sections with car paint, and use acrylics and enamels for detailing only.

 

 

 

 

 

 

(add snide remark about someone being gay and using nail polish on themselves here:) :roll

it's not about the paints, it's about the application of the paints. the paints won't ruin a project, the artist will.

we've seen amazing peices of art done with enamels and acrylics hundreds of times...

Knock it off boys, don't get started..or you're going to your rooms with no dinner tonight..

 

Frenzy_Rumble..With the primer paints though..Ok, when I did my Classics Sunstorm, and found out after painted, that the color wasn't what I'd wanted..So people just said to go ahead and put on another coating with the proper color, and use the original as a primer..And I did just that..And while the paint held fine..It seemed to lose the sharpness of the molding..Kind of dulled it some. How can you apply primer--even a thin layer, and then another without losing out the details? I've never primered any of my pieces, just went with direct finished paint.