oops. double post.

:thumb Awesome write up on dioramas, WV.

 

It's also possible to use purchasable toys and building sets to build dioramas, too. Studs Not On Top(Snot) building technique with Lego bits makes a great road diorama base. (I'm still trying to find a few examples on the Brothers brick, though.)

Thanks for the tip, Aoijuuni ! :thumb

My TFA Bumblebee's face had its black outline applied sloppily, so there was some on his cheek and in both his eyes.

 

I have tried and failed to take his head apart, as it's not only screwed together, but they used some ridiculously strong glue.

 

The usual methods of warming it to soften the glue and slipping something thin (hobby knife blade, etc) in the seam didn't work. Trying to pry it apart only succeeded in damaging the edges of the seam.

 

Have any of you managed to take one apart? If so, how??

It could be "heat seamed', where they apply a small amount of heat to one edge, and then mate the two halves. But that would leave a tell-tale trim line around the seam where they had to remove flash.

 

My suggestion is to trace along the seam with an xacto knife until you get about 1/8 of an inch in, and the try using the knife to break the seam.

 

anyone else?

Okay, I hope i'm posting in the correct area...

 

I dropped a big glob of testors model glue on the hood of my Wildrider custom. How do you suggest I "repair" the damage. It appears to remove enamel paint very well as I can see the original red plastic color through the primer, first and second aluminum paint coatings. Do I use thinner and remove the entire area effected and re-airbrush? I want to make sure it does not look like I had to repaint this section. Just need some direction on where to start and with what I should prepare the affected area when I paint it. I am glad I hadn't applied the sealer paint to it yet....speaking of when do I add that? Before I start to cut the pieces or after they are done and it has been applied. I still have decals to apply and I know that you don't clear coat seal them until they are on and dry. Thanks for your help...

Okay, I hope i'm posting in the correct area...

 

I dropped a big glob of testors model glue on the hood of my Wildrider custom. How do you suggest I "repair" the damage. It appears to remove enamel paint very well as I can see the original red plastic color through the primer, first and second aluminum paint coatings. Do I use thinner and remove the entire area effected and re-airbrush? I want to make sure it does not look like I had to repaint this section. Just need some direction on where to start and with what I should prepare the affected area when I paint it. I am glad I hadn't applied the sealer paint to it yet....speaking of when do I add that? Before I start to cut the pieces or after they are done and it has been applied. I still have decals to apply and I know that you don't clear coat seal them until they are on and dry. Thanks for your help...

 

I'm thinking your best bet would be to sand the hood down smooth, and reapply the paints to get an even smooth coat like you had before your mishap.

Okay, I hope i'm posting in the correct area...

 

I dropped a big glob of testors model glue on the hood of my Wildrider custom. How do you suggest I "repair" the damage. It appears to remove enamel paint very well as I can see the original red plastic color through the primer, first and second aluminum paint coatings. Do I use thinner and remove the entire area effected and re-airbrush? I want to make sure it does not look like I had to repaint this section. Just need some direction on where to start and with what I should prepare the affected area when I paint it. I am glad I hadn't applied the sealer paint to it yet....speaking of when do I add that? Before I start to cut the pieces or after they are done and it has been applied. I still have decals to apply and I know that you don't clear coat seal them until they are on and dry. Thanks for your help...

 

I'm thinking your best bet would be to sand the hood down smooth, and reapply the paints to get an even smooth coat like you had before your mishap.

 

 

First, buff the area with 0000 grade steel wool, and see if that evens out the area. If it does, then just repaint that section. If for some reason you can't, then you're going to have to repaint it. Use Polly S ESO (easy -lift-off) , sold at most hobby stores, or use easy off (carefull of the fumes!) to remove the paint. once doen, clean up the part with rubbing alcohol and repaint as norma.

 

Sorry to hear this happened, DJBomberman. BTW Rodimus RVT, good advice, just that sanding can remove details and change the shape of the hood.

 

-WV

Okay, I hope i'm posting in the correct area...

 

I dropped a big glob of testors model glue on the hood of my Wildrider custom. How do you suggest I "repair" the damage. It appears to remove enamel paint very well as I can see the original red plastic color through the primer, first and second aluminum paint coatings. Do I use thinner and remove the entire area effected and re-airbrush? I want to make sure it does not look like I had to repaint this section. Just need some direction on where to start and with what I should prepare the affected area when I paint it. I am glad I hadn't applied the sealer paint to it yet....speaking of when do I add that? Before I start to cut the pieces or after they are done and it has been applied. I still have decals to apply and I know that you don't clear coat seal them until they are on and dry. Thanks for your help...

 

I'm thinking your best bet would be to sand the hood down smooth, and reapply the paints to get an even smooth coat like you had before your mishap.

 

 

First, buff the area with 0000 grade steel wool, and see if that evens out the area. If it does, then just repaint that section. If for some reason you can't, then you're going to have to repaint it. Use Polly S ESO (easy -lift-off) , sold at most hobby stores, or use easy off (carefull of the fumes!) to remove the paint. once doen, clean up the part with rubbing alcohol and repaint as norma.

 

Sorry to hear this happened, DJBomberman. BTW Rodimus RVT, good advice, just that sanding can remove details and change the shape of the hood.

 

-WV

 

Yeah I should have specified the grade of sand paper. I would have used automotive grade sand paper. This is how I took care of the problems when I was working on my BT Rodimus. Though in all honesty he had a die cast hood so that's probably why it didn't take the details off or change it's shape.

ok i have a question what Magnets do you use for deluxe figs??? can i get a pic of how they work. as i saw this cool warpath on ebay and want to try my hand at one . I just need to know what magnets to use . thanks X