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THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


WraithVerge
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One thing about paints that that I was taught by my instructor when I took a movie miniature model making course in college was to never use enamels on plastic of any form. Sure it will cure on some, like styrene, but it does this by eating into the plastic and bonding to it chemically. According to my instructor, this will eventually destroy the plastic. It will, at the very least weaken the structural integrity. Sure, it is less likely to chip, but that is because of the chemical bonding by eating into the plastic. all enamels do this. They will also only bond, and thus cure, to a few select types of plastics. Plastics like vinyl, urethane, and others won't bond with the paint, leaving the paint perpetually sticky and gummy. As a rule, I use acrylic paints exclusively for everything. Not only won't they weaken the plastic, but they are also easier to clean, since they are water-based. Yes, they are more easily chipped, but they don't damage the plastic like enamels of any form will.

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One thing about paints that that I was taught by my instructor when I took a movie miniature model making course in college was to never use enamels on plastic of any form. Sure it will cure on some, like styrene, but it does this by eating into the plastic and bonding to it chemically. According to my instructor, this will eventually destroy the plastic. It will, at the very least weaken the structural integrity. Sure, it is less likely to chip, but that is because of the chemical bonding by eating into the plastic. all enamels do this. They will also only bond, and thus cure, to a few select types of plastics. Plastics like vinyl, urethane, and others won't bond with the paint, leaving the paint perpetually sticky and gummy. As a rule, I use acrylic paints exclusively for everything. Not only won't they weaken the plastic, but they are also easier to clean, since they are water-based. Yes, they are more easily chipped, but they don't damage the plastic like enamels of any form will.

 

I've been painting figures since I was like 13 or 14 years old and I've never noticed any problems with the paints eating them. I mean there is even one or two kicking around my house that I gave to my son that are still fine so just how long does this process take? I'm 25 and the one or two figures from back then that I still know where they are have no problems. Acrilics do dry much faster than the enamels. Especially the flat paints.

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I don't know. I do know that the initial chemical bonding eats into the top layers, to bond with the plastic on a molecular level which is why the paint doesn't chip easily. this is an immediate effect and does weaken the structural integrity, which is more noticable on thinner plastic parts. If the plastic is thick enough, you my never have a proble, but on thin walled plastic, it is pretty immediate.

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I need a good metallic silver paint that can be brushed on for small details. Does anyone have any suggestions? I need a paint that won't run like water and will cover with just a couple of coats. I actually have some testors silver acryllic, but it's just too thin and doesn't cover well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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I need a good metallic silver paint that can be brushed on for small details. Does anyone have any suggestions? I need a paint that won't run like water and will cover with just a couple of coats. I actually have some testors silver acryllic, but it's just too thin and doesn't cover well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Testor's silver chrome. I also use regular Testor's silver. I use their enamel rather than the acrylic. For one thing I didn't even know they made an acrylic silver. If you are careful you can get a really good out come. I use a 0/3 soft brush from testor's to get a really good paint job with out brush marks.

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You might also want to try Tamiya Color Chrome Silver. It is number X-11. Most of my acrylic paints are Tamiya Color paints.

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Does anyone know if there are ANY 1:24 (or even 1:25) scale model kits of the International CXT?

 

I have searched and searched, and all I've been able to find are huge R/C toy versions and tiny Hot Wheels/Matchbox versions.

 

I -really- wanna make a custom Alt Optimus Prime from one, but first I have to find a model kit.

 

Any leads (company name, online/bricks-and-mortar location to find one, etc) would be VERY appreciated!

 

That is one sexy truck, is it not?

All I've ever seen are the 1:64 versions... but I found this online: 1:18 scale

Can't really tell much about the quality of the toy from the pictures, but it might be something to work with.

I know 1:18 is a far cry from 1:24, but it might make a good base for a Prime anyway. And it's already red.

Hope it helps.

 

I guess I'll PM this post to you too in case you miss checking here for a while.

 

 

*EDIT* According to THIS auction, the toy in question is about 11.5 inches long, putting it at about 1:22 scale. You might think about snatching it up.

Edited by Azure_Dragoon
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Hey my dad wants to do some detailing/undetailing of his real GMC pickup. So I need to find out if there is any way to remove the pin stripes with out messing up the paint and if there is any paints that will work on rubber. He wants to remove the pin stripes so that he can replace them and he wants to have me paint in the GMC letters on the mudflaps, and the steering wheel. If anyone can think of anything that might help I'd really appreciate it.

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For the mudflaps and steering wheel, Acrylics are your best bet. You might even want to try acrylic fabric paint or artist's acrylics, which is even more flexible. Unlike Enamels, acrylics will cure on any surface, so they will be fine on rubber and vinyl. As far as removing the pinstripes from the sides of the truck goes, You would be better off getting advice from an Autobody shop.

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