Ok first of all, I first saw "graphing" as 3D graphing, which is a process I use to create 3D models of objects in a scripting language.

 

The correct terminology is "graft" or "grafting," which is also a process to regrow limbs onto trees (my first experience with the word.)

thanks for the semantics trip, but the point got across.

 

 

-jr

Ok first of all, I first saw "graphing" as 3D graphing, which is a process I use to create 3D models of objects in a scripting language.

 

The correct terminology is "graft" or "grafting," which is also a process to regrow limbs onto trees (my first experience with the word.)

Does it really matter how he spells? I think he clearly made his point. Are we in school or this a forum to share ideas and show off our hard work? Either way JR I wish you the best of luck in grafting, graphing what ever it is the "correct" terminology is. Can't wait to see pictures of your creation as i am sure it will be an awesome sight. No I am not some young kid but a 30+ adult. Bothers me to see such pettine :tdown ss. But a :thumb to you JR for such a undertaking!

thanks blueavenger for the back up...

however it's pronounced or spelled, I know what jr is talking about. and being non-pc never hurt a kitbash. :)

Hey WV!! what is the "protocol" for painting on the plastics?

 

-jr

Protocol is as follows:

 

1) Wash plastic with warm water and soap, to remove mold release.

 

2) Sand lightly with 0000-grade steel wool, to give the paint coat "tooth" to hang on to.

 

3) Use krylon (preferably Fusion) as the base coat. It doesn't chip as easily, and dreis far quicker than most other sprays. Also, it's white paint doesn't yellow over time like others' do.

 

4) Mist the paint on in light coats, rather than one solid coat. This prevents runs and sags. Do three coats (at least) : the first should be misty, and not even cover the model totally. The second should have an 'orange peel' look to it; kinda rough, but covers it better. The third should be ALMOST heavy, but not quite. That will be the one that totally covers it.

 

5) Once dry, then go in with the detail paints. Acrylics dry quick, and allow you to work in half the time enamels would take. After they dry, use krylon Crystal cote to protect the paint job. After this, use testors dull-cote if a matte finish is desired.

 

 

That's the protocol. Hope it helps!

 

 

-WV

DONT SAND THE TOY!!! are you nuts!?! The thing will end up looking like bread texture after its painted....NO NO NO NO...Fusion is NO PREP paint..as long as the plastic is clean, its set to go.

Hey WV!! what is the "protocol" for painting on the plastics?

 

-jr

Protocol is as follows:

 

1) Wash plastic with warm water and soap, to remove mold release.

 

2) Sand lightly with 0000-grade steel wool, to give the paint coat "tooth" to hang on to.

 

3) Use krylon (preferably Fusion) as the base coat. It doesn't chip as easily, and dreis far quicker than most other sprays. Also, it's white paint doesn't yellow over time like others' do.

 

4) Mist the paint on in light coats, rather than one solid coat. This prevents runs and sags. Do three coats (at least) : the first should be misty, and not even cover the model totally. The second should have an 'orange peel' look to it; kinda rough, but covers it better. The third should be ALMOST heavy, but not quite. That will be the one that totally covers it.

 

5) Once dry, then go in with the detail paints. Acrylics dry quick, and allow you to work in half the time enamels would take. After they dry, use krylon Crystal cote to protect the paint job. After this, use testors dull-cote if a matte finish is desired.

 

 

That's the protocol. Hope it helps!

 

 

-WV

DONT SAND THE TOY!!! are you nuts!?! The thing will end up looking like bread texture after its painted....NO NO NO NO...Fusion is NO PREP paint..as long as the plastic is clean, its set to go.

I've always thought about sanding before painting as well, to give the paint more surface area to adhere to. But, I've never actually done it myself for fear of the same problem BC pointed out. WV, you've obviously have done the sand prepping thing before, so how does it come out really? Does it look smooth? Or does it at least look good enough to where the negative (not as smooth) outweighs the benefits (better paint adherence)? I've always wanted to test this sanding thing out myself but if you've already done it then I'd be interested in the results.

You don't sand it, you buff it. There's a big difference there. I've been talking with a lot of people, and they recommend buffing, not sanding.

 

Using the 0000 grade steel wool will just scratch the surface and not take any measurable plastic with it. It will still be smooth to the touch, while giving the paint something to grab on to. The paint won't have huge cracks and scratches to fill, they'll be microscopic. The initial layer of paint will fill those in, and give a nice, flat, smooth surface for the rest of the paint.

 

We're not talking about sandblasting the models here, folks. Sheesh.

Hey WV!! what is the "protocol" for painting on the plastics?

 

-jr

Protocol is as follows:

 

1) Wash plastic with warm water and soap, to remove mold release.

 

2) Sand lightly with 0000-grade steel wool, to give the paint coat "tooth" to hang on to.

 

3) Use krylon (preferably Fusion) as the base coat. It doesn't chip as easily, and dreis far quicker than most other sprays. Also, it's white paint doesn't yellow over time like others' do.

 

4) Mist the paint on in light coats, rather than one solid coat. This prevents runs and sags. Do three coats (at least) : the first should be misty, and not even cover the model totally. The second should have an 'orange peel' look to it; kinda rough, but covers it better. The third should be ALMOST heavy, but not quite. That will be the one that totally covers it.

 

5) Once dry, then go in with the detail paints. Acrylics dry quick, and allow you to work in half the time enamels would take. After they dry, use krylon Crystal cote to protect the paint job. After this, use testors dull-cote if a matte finish is desired.

 

 

That's the protocol. Hope it helps!

 

 

-WV

DONT SAND THE TOY!!! are you nuts!?! The thing will end up looking like bread texture after its painted....NO NO NO NO...Fusion is NO PREP paint..as long as the plastic is clean, its set to go.

Bodycount,

 

NO, I'M NOT NUTS. IN FACT, I KNOW WHAT THE HELL I'M TALKING ABOUT.

 

If you paid ANY attention to my post, I said to sand it using 0000 STEEL WOOL. The same stuff you use for polishing MODEL AIRCRAFT CANOPIES BEFORE USING FUTURE FLOOR ACRYLIC as the FINAL COAT. Fusion works by bonding to the plastic using xylene. I used this technique, and it works FINE.

 

And I say sanding, because buffing indicates that you're using a cloth to POLISH the surface. Sanding indicates that you're doing more than that, which also fits for steel wool.

 

Next time, read the ENTIRE post before you reply.

Ok first of all, I first saw "graphing" as 3D graphing, which is a process I use to create 3D models of objects in a scripting language.

 

The correct terminology is "graft" or "grafting," which is also a process to regrow limbs onto trees (my first experience with the word.)

Does it really matter how he spells? I think he clearly made his point. Are we in school or this a forum to share ideas and show off our hard work? Either way JR I wish you the best of luck in grafting, graphing what ever it is the "correct" terminology is. Can't wait to see pictures of your creation as i am sure it will be an awesome sight. No I am not some young kid but a 30+ adult. Bothers me to see such pettine :tdown ss. But a :thumb to you JR for such a undertaking!

Yes but for the future. Good thing I actually read the whole thread before replying. I was confused as to what he was talking about... My response was not to ride him for it but to just inform. Also like I said I was confused because I have done graphing of transformers before!