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tentagil

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About tentagil

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  1. I've never bothered measuring temperature, but I usually bring it up to a boil, then lower the stove top to medium heat and let it sit for about five minutes. It should still be steaming but not bubbling, if you see bubbles then its to damn hot. And like Azure Dragon said your never going to get a completely uniform cover. Also note that you can't dye a lighter color on a darker color, and when you dye your basically color mixing. A red part in yellow dye will give you orange, red in blue will net you purple, and so on. Keep that in mind, don't by dye for the exact color you want, by the color that mixing with the plastic color will get you the desired color. So if you want to turn blue Mirage parts green you need yellow dye. Usually when I'm making a custom I'll do a mix of dyed and painted parts to ensure I get the colors I want.
  2. The trick really is getting the water to jsut the right temperature and then patience. Now if the part won't take dye at all you can attempt to add a small amount of Acetone to the mix before you heat it. It will help the plastic take the dye, however if you do this you have to do things at a lower temperature, and make sure the area is very well ventilated as the fumes can be toxic and with the acetone in it the liquid has a lower flash point. Personally I never use acetone because I don't think the risks are worth it, some people I know use it everytime. So its your call, I wouldn't use it on a first try though.
  3. Heat dye to just under boiling, if it does boil turn down the heat and let it cool a bit. Get yourself a mesh strainer, put parts in strainer and dip in dye to keep them from touching the bottom. Pull out after 30 seconds or so and check to see if they are taking the dye. Once they start to take it pull them out every five seconds or so until they have the color depth you want. Once they've reached that point dunk them in a bowl of cool water to cool them, rinse them, and stop the dyeing process. Thats it in a nutshell. Things to watch for though, make sure the parts don't hit any of the sides of the pot, hot metal will melt the plastic quick, if the dye is to hot it will distort the plastic as well. If its taking a long time to get the color dark enough dip it in the water every 30 seconds to a minute to cool them a little to help prevent distortion. Regardless your gonna end up with a certain amount of shrinkage/distortion, but if your careful it should be very minor and barely noticeable. And RIT dye works wonderfully, or at least has for every custom I've dyed.
  4. tentagil

    Transformer KO's

    Honestly I find the whole "people buy KOs so we won't reissue them" thing to be bullBlot. Collectors will by official releases. The majority view point is similiar to your own Goki. And KOs exist of Predaking, but he was reissues, KOs exist of Sixshot, but he was reissued. Those KOs might be a little rarer, but they do exist and aren't that hard to get if you look for them. When it comes right down to it I jsut don't think the reissues are cost effective for Takara period, and they know that the collector market really isn't big enough to make it profitable.
  5. tentagil

    Transformer KO's

    Not so much stolen as Reverse engineered, I'm sure that Takara still has the originals i they haven't been destroyed. Whats kinda sad is that these KO companies will spend the money the make molds when Takara won't, of course most of the KOs aren't the best quality, some are actually almost up to the original standards.
  6. He's on my short list of rare/expensive figures I want some day. How is his actual articulation and such though, is he a sturdy guy or does he feel fragile?
  7. Well thanks to the military I'm now an Okie. So I'll have to watch this thread for Oklahoma City sightings. So far the South OKC/Moore area has yet to get the classics in the Walmarts, no time to check anywhere else as of yet.
  8. One this guy the other day. THe price makes my wallet hurt, paid more then I really wanted to by about 50 bucks, but he completes my G1 Autobot combiners collection. That and only seen a complete one on Ebay maybe twice in the last two years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
  9. How are his ankles? Heard about a lot of problems with them. Friend had one that kep taking nosedives because he couldn't stay standing up straight.
  10. See I don't like the current Megatron or the Galvatron repaint. I'm apparently one of the few people who jsut don't think the mold is all that good. His car mold is okay, but as far as I can tell his jet mode is a car with wings, and his bot mode jsut doesn't do it for me. Honestly I think the best figures in the Cybertron line are all Basics. Almost all the basics have wonderful designs.
  11. I love th Hardtop mold. And Lugnutz there is looking better to me. All the kibble on his shoulders is a little annoying though.
  12. I love his colors in that version, but I've never been able to find one I'm willing to pay the money for. People charge insane prices for that one on EBay
  13. Very nice. I know I'll never have collection that big, don't even think I'd want to. But some figs in there I'd like to have:)
  14. Predaking is of course basically a big brick with guns, but he still looks cool.
  15. Love that pose though. I go for a croched Axe across his chest with both hands holding it up type pose. More a menacing pose then an actual action shot. And of course he's in front of Predaking so it looks even better, I swear they should have sunk them into Cybertron for a cameo, I mean the colors match perfectly.
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