Chris Parasyte, Viagra Prime;  You both seem to have a handle on Poly Styrene, I'd like (and am sure others would appreciate) some info on the stuff.

 

How durable is it?  For example what would be more similar to?  Rubber Maid, or the plastic of say a CD case?  Or is it somewhat harder like PVC?

 

Both of your creations have intricate details, raised sections and such.  Can you buy pieces like that, or is that some kind of home made molded plastic or can you carve that out with say a razor knife? And after carving how strong would it be?

 

Cutting, is it a material that cuts with clippers, razor or some kinda cutting tool?  Or can you just bend it on the spot? 

 

And fusing sections together, hot glue, melting, modeling glue or some kinda special vinyl adhesive?

 

How much is this stuff, how big do the sheets come, and where do you get yours?

 

Its not like liquid plastic reson needing molds and hardening time?

 

I am working on a custom that I started using model kit parts and things, and I don't like the way it came out.  I need a large sidepiece with intricate openings for windows, and figure piecing together something like the styrene will work much better. 

 

 

I think at this point, I will be cutting some CD and Cassette cases for the plastic sheets, and working with that.  If I had a functional workshop I'd break out things from storage and or hit the hard ware store, but I'm stuck at home with limited materials, space, funds and time. 

Here's some info in the Kitbash guide for dummies or what ever.  Still does not exactly answer my questions...it does not sound like I will use this, but rather what ever I can find around to bash the wall I need. 

 

Clips:

 

sheet styrene in .20,.30. and .40 thicknesses ( available through your local hobby store), plastic model filler putty, super

 

DO NOT USE STYRENE for joints and support members!!!! Use ABS plastic instead! The reason for this is that styrene ( the plastic used in plastic models) cannot withstand the repeated stresses of transformation. Eventually, it will break and fall apart ( I learned this the hard way on JackKnife!). ABS plastic is the hard plastic most commonly used for stereo boombox cabinets, refrigerator shelf retainers (those strips of plastic that keep the mustard and relish on the door!), and a whole bunch of other places. It's okay to use styrene model parts for the actual vehicle parts, like doors, cockpits, engine details, and so forth. But trust me, use ABS for joints and structural members.

 

Devcon plastic welder is that unlike epoxy, it doesn't get as brittle: it is virtually liquid plastic. It also has incredible holding power, and if used correctly, can be built-up into virtually any shape that you want. The last one is a little tricky, as the stuff is a gel-like mass when first mixed. The trick is to apply it to plastic model sprue or another "base" surface that will serve as the 'core' of the piece you are trying to make. ( A word of warning: although it doesn't really matter on small parts, plastic welder can become very hot during the curing process, especially on large applications. Your best bet in any event is to apply it in several layers, rather than in one huge glob.)

 

Although you can't really use it to cast parts, like you can resin, plastic welder is incredibly strong. It's best uses are when you need to fasten high -strength parts like legs, arms, torsos and so forth. It truly shines when you have to fasten transform joints in areas that don't have a lot of attachment surface, and makes for bonds that can only be broken by a sledgehammer (well, not LITERALLY, but you get the point!) I have even used it to fashion my own joints from scratch, although it takes a lot of practice, not to mention trial and error.

 

A particular trick I use when utilizing the stuff is to make a "dam" of masking tape for the area you want to work on, then apply the plastic welder and let it cure in several layers. Then when the bonder is cured, remove the tape, and presto! A little sanding, and you're good to go!

 

On that note, a little advice: Plastic welder sets in 5 minutes and cures in 15 ( it's speed is another boon.) But it reaches full strength in 24 hours. Keep this in mind for two reasons:

 

1) any pieces requiring high-strength will require the full cure time, and:

2) The material is easier to sand , cut and otherwise work before it fully cures, preferably within the first 10 to 15 minutes of it's initial curing.

 

 

Well, That's all for now. I'll be back soon to share more with everyone! Keep coming back, and if you have a great idea or need some advice, just post here and I'll read it! Keep up the kit-bashing everyone!

 

for customizations, I use a two part adhesive called Plastic Bonder.  It's sold at Wal-mart, in the Hardware section for $2.50. It's a lot stronger than epoxy, and far less brittle. it's practically liquid plastic! And the best part is, it cures in 15 minutes,

Chris Parasyte, Viagra Prime;  You both seem to have a handle on Poly Styrene, I'd like (and am sure others would appreciate) some info on the stuff.

 

How durable is it?  For example what would be more similar to?  Rubber Maid, or the plastic of say a CD case?  Or is it somewhat harder like PVC?

 

Both of your creations have intricate details, raised sections and such.  Can you buy pieces like that, or is that some kind of home made molded plastic or can you carve that out with say a razor knife? And after carving how strong would it be?

 

Cutting, is it a material that cuts with clippers, razor or some kinda cutting tool?  Or can you just bend it on the spot? 

 

And fusing sections together, hot glue, melting, modeling glue or some kinda special vinyl adhesive?

 

How much is this stuff, how big do the sheets come, and where do you get yours?

 

Its not like liquid plastic reson needing molds and hardening time?

 

I am working on a custom that I started using model kit parts and things, and I don't like the way it came out.  I need a large sidepiece with intricate openings for windows, and figure piecing together something like the styrene will work much better. 

 

 

I think at this point, I will be cutting some CD and Cassette cases for the plastic sheets, and working with that.  If I had a functional workshop I'd break out things from storage and or hit the hard ware store, but I'm stuck at home with limited materials, space, funds and time.

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As you posted, the kitbash for dummies already answered a few of the questions you asked.

 

I'd say styrene is closer to cd case plastic than rubber maid or PVC, but cd case plastic cracks easily.  Styrene does not.

 

Styrene can be bought plain or with grooves.  For other "raised" details you can lay one piece of styrene over another.  It comes in various thickness.  Most sheets are just a bit smaller than the size of a standard piece of paper.  It also comes in rods, tubes, H column, etc.  I buy most of my styrene here:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/re.htm

 

As for as cutting styrene, I basically just use an exacto knife to score the sheets and then you can just break it off along the line. You can use scissors to cut them too but you won't get as straight a line.

 

I use testor's cement glue and just plain super glue.  The cement glue would actually melt the plastic a bit to fuse the pieces together.

 

Its not like resin.  It comes already harden.

 

Hope that helps.  :thumb

CD case plastic IS polystyrene. And while I'm at it, let me answer you questions Backfire:

 

1) Polystyrene is fairly durable, but not the best for structural support. It bends easily. Use ABS for structural support.

 

2) Evergreen plastics ans Plastruct manufacture detail pieces that may suit your needs. Look for these companies online to see their catalogs of materials, or visit you local hobby shop.

 

2a) You can carve panel lines and detail into it, but it may weaken the plastic depending upon the depth and intricacy of the detail.

 

3) It can be cut with a razor, xacto knife, or in the case of sheet styrene, a heavy pair of scissors. (depending upon the thicknesses involved.)

 

4) any model cement formulated for "polystyrene" will work, along with contact cement, epoxy, hot-melt glue, and Plastic welder by devcon.

 

5) The sheets come in a pack of three, two or one,(depending upon thicknesses), and the sheets are about 10 inces by 6 inches usually. I pay about 3 dollars for a 3-pack of .20 styrene at my local shop. Plastruct parts are sold by the part, and depend upon the size. (usually anywhere from 50 to 80 cents depending on the part.) I purchase mine at Amoato's toy and hobby the next city over from me. hobbytown USA also carries it.

 

6) it comes pre-formed, so you need not worry about drying times.

 

Hopefully, this should answer all your questions. As I say in the Idiot's Guide, if you have any questions, email me or shoot me a PM. The guide may not have every single answer you need, but it's intended to get one on their feet. I'm almost always available for specific questions.

 

Good luck on your project, Backfire! :thumb

 

-WV