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THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


WraithVerge
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hey WV, i need some help on this project, http://www.tfmaster.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3604 , from wut i know, my dad has some spare LED lights at his work, i just need some help on how am i goin to mount the LED light? also im trying to figure out wut kind of batteries i will need for it. would hot glue work 4 it?

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To be honest I don`t think LEDs will work since Hasbro hasn`t put out a light up light saber that doesn`t stick out of the end of the tube to this day. Best bet would be to disect a flash light or one of the $6 Walmart light up laser swords for parts. Sorry if this puts a damper on things. But if you are heck bent on LEDs then by all means prove me wrong I`d love to see a light up light sabre that goes all the way into the handle. If I remember correctly hearing aid batteries should work for LEDs. Either them or what ever size battery they use in the 5", and 6" action figures. I know they`re button cells but I`m not sure what size. I hope some of this helps you out.

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To be honest I don`t think LEDs will work since Hasbro hasn`t put out a light up light saber that doesn`t stick out of the end of the tube to this day. Best bet would be to disect a flash light or one of the $6 Walmart light up laser swords for parts. Sorry if this puts a damper on things. But if you are heck bent on LEDs then by all means prove me wrong I`d love to see a light up light sabre that goes all the way into the handle. If I remember correctly hearing aid batteries should work for LEDs. Either them or what ever size battery they use in the 5", and 6" action figures. I know they`re button cells but I`m not sure what size. I hope some of this helps you out.

 

 

hey man, anything helps :thumb  also thanks 4 the tip, i might have to use it, maby

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Rawhide, VW, RodVTS:

Thanks for the tips guys.  Will try it out when I get the chance (dammit, work is taking up too much of my time!  :P)

 

On a side note, any of you guys know if Krylon Interior/Exterior spraypaint work well on plastic?  It's written "works on wood/plastic/blahblahblah" on the can, but how well does it really work?  I saw some uber-shine silver and gold cans of it at Wal-Mart, so I wondered if it sticks well enough to TF-plastic...

 

Krylon paints are what I use for my projects, and they ROCK. they dry fast, can be recoated at any time, and are very durable.

 

UPDATE ON MP PRIME's PINS: the pin runs from ONE side of the waist to the OTHER!!!! Put a small nail punch in one side, and tap it with a hammer. it should come out on the OTHER side of prime's waist. I came across this examining my MP prime. then just remove the pins in the side panels on his waist.

 

BTW, TM Megatron: for lightsabers, There are several FAQ's on the net that explain how to put in your own electroluminescent lightsaber blades. the materials are fairly cheap, but you'll have to poke around a bit to find the FAQ. try the jedi council forums (google the name) to find their faq on it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

hmmm...newbie here got a question for the master kbashers ....when re shelling an alternator....i know the alternators line is 1:24 scale but would it hurt to use 1:25 ? and also is tamiya the best to use or revell and the other ones like amt/etrl is also good to use ??? would appreciate any help you guys can offer...thanks

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hmmm...newbie here got a question for the master kbashers ....when re shelling an alternator....i know the alternators line is 1:24 scale but would it hurt to use 1:25 ? and also is tamiya the best to use or revell and the other ones like amt/etrl is also good to use ??? would appreciate any help you guys can offer...thanks

Well, I'm currently doing a re-shell myself, and let me tell you: in this case, size DOES matter.

 

You see, the expression 1:25 is actually a fraction. It means that the model is 1/25th the size of the original. This goes for all models (a 1:1 , for example, would mean that the model is the exact scale of the original, while 1:4 would denote it is a quarter of the original's size.) Now, with some things, the difference between a 1:24 and a 1:25 wouldn't really matter. But in re-shelling, a millimeter is all the difference needed to make a transform malfunction or bind up. Keep in mind: the smaller the scond number, the larger the model. I would go with a 1:24 myself, Blu3_sTr3ak-30.

 

As for model brand choice, that depends upon who you use. Revel, monogram and ertl have models with fairly heavy plastic, while tamiya is more about detail. (Generally, tamiya's models have better detailing than the american comanies.) But, tamiya's thinner plastic also presents breakage problems during construction. So, if yo plan on using Tamiya's models, just be a little more carefull during the 'bashing process.

 

One pice of advice: when reshelling, test fit the parts CONSTANTLY during the process, especially when you're grinding down or cutting away the original's surface. This will avoid you removing too much or removing vital structural parts that hold parts together. Also, PLAN, PLAN, PLAN!!! Do drawings (however cruddy they may be [j/k] :lol) of what you want to do. And don't be afraid to make changes during the process; not everything goes according to plan.

 

Well, that's all I can think of for now. If you need any more advice or help, just post here or shoot me a PM. Good luck with this one, Blu3_sTr3ak-30. I want to see pics!!! :thumb

 

 

-WV

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hmmm...newbie here got a question for the master kbashers ....when re shelling an alternator....i know the alternators line is 1:24 scale but would it hurt to use 1:25 ? and also is tamiya the best to use or revell and the other ones like amt/etrl is also good to use ??? would appreciate any help you guys can offer...thanks

Well, I'm currently doing a re-shell myself, and let me tell you: in this case, size DOES matter.

 

You see, the expression 1:25 is actually a fraction. It means that the model is 1/25th the size of the original. This goes for all models (a 1:1 , for example, would mean that the model is the exact scale of the original, while 1:4 would denote it is a quarter of the original's size.) Now, with some things, the difference between a 1:24 and a 1:25 wouldn't really matter. But in re-shelling, a millimeter is all the difference needed to make a transform malfunction or bind up. Keep in mind: the smaller the scond number, the larger the model. I would go with a 1:24 myself, Blu3_sTr3ak-30.

 

As for model brand choice, that depends upon who you use. Revel, monogram and ertl have models with fairly heavy plastic, while tamiya is more about detail. (Generally, tamiya's models have better detailing than the american comanies.) But, tamiya's thinner plastic also presents breakage problems during construction. So, if yo plan on using Tamiya's models, just be a little more carefull during the 'bashing process.

 

One pice of advice: when reshelling, test fit the parts CONSTANTLY during the process, especially when you're grinding down or cutting away the original's surface. This will avoid you removing too much or removing vital structural parts that hold parts together. Also, PLAN, PLAN, PLAN!!! Do drawings (however cruddy they may be [j/k] :lol) of what you want to do. And don't be afraid to make changes during the process; not everything goes according to plan.

 

Well, that's all I can think of for now. If you need any more advice or help, just post here or shoot me a PM. Good luck with this one, Blu3_sTr3ak-30. I want to see pics!!! :thumb

 

 

-WV

thanks for the advice wv i'm still doin research though and also reading your thread on kbashin for dummies so it'll take a while to decide whether i'll start first w/ repaints or go all out n do a kbash soooo...until then i'm keep doin research...i really appreciate every single bit of advice u gave thanks again wv.

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No problem. BTW, don't get nervous about doing reshells; just take it slow, and if you get stuck or don'yt know how to proceed, just ask us here at IGTKB. We're here to help! :thumb

 

 

-WV

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Here`s how to build your own 1:24 scale Target Master figures for your Alternators.

 

Well here`s what you`ll need:

your chosen 3" figure

a length of angle styrene

a sheet of styrene

a length of 1/4"x 9/32" rectangular styrene tubing

a length of 1/8" round styrene tubing

a length of wire that is found in the same plastruct display as the rest of this stuff

a length of 1/4"x3/32"solid styrene

scizzors

a flat tip screwdriver

a couple of screws from a pack of 10mm stand offs that you can get at Radio Shack

a bottle of Testors Model Super Glue

a tube of contour putty

Now keep in mind that you`ll need to drill the holes for your head, arm, and leg joints to the size that they are on your figure.

 

Here`s the instructions:

targetmasterinstructions.jpg

Here`s what you`ll end up with after shaving the head and sculpting a helmet in place of the hair using contour putty.

TargetmasterRodimusVTSdigi.jpg

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Hey WV, I've been using your steel wool method to strip some paint from some of my Alts for modification, along with some ultra-fine wet-sanding paper.  But now I have a question:  What do you use to polish these guys up and bring the shine back out?  Is there anything specific that won't harm plastic?

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