i've also heard of 409 being used to remove chrome from plastic. The gundam MG model Hyaku-Shiki comes to mind with this.

409, huh? Thanks, I'll have to try it out!

and thanks to you for putting up such an extensive paint tip thing or DOOM!

and thanks to you for putting up such an extensive paint tip thing or DOOM!

Glad to help any way I can. I've been doing this stuff for about 20 years now(Started when I was ten; guess I just revealed my age!). I figured anything I picked up along the way might help someone out who's running into problems. Besides, the worst feeling in the world is doing an awesome kitbash or custom, only to have it go to slag because of one little thing.

Is anyone here familar with Warhammer? I have friends that play, and I was wondering if I could barrow their modeel paint to redo a divebomb with a Laserbeak scheme.

Is there a good way to keep the paint from chipping when transforming?

Is anyone here familar with Warhammer? I have friends that play, and I was wondering if I could barrow their modeel paint to redo a divebomb with a Laserbeak scheme.

I do. If it is spray paint you can use it. Brushing is not recommended cuz it is impossible to paint large areas in a neat uniform way.

Is there a good way to keep the paint from chipping when transforming?

Not that I know off. You could add a couple of layers of matte varnish. but aplying too much paint could interfere with the tranformation again.

What thread do I use to read up on kitbashing and customizing?

I think it would be nice if the experts who posted here could host an "Idiots Guide" to kitbashing. perhaps you could do it like they do in "Waite Dwarf" (warhammers hobby mag)? You know; "This week, we will show you how I made this recolour of Optimus Prime into Scourge". You could show a few photos and suchl;ike. "Cut THIS bit, not THIS bit!".

 

What do you think?

 

As for the "acrylic" paints used by Games Workshop (the creators of warhammer), try to remember:

 

1/ they are awfully expensive.

 

2/ regualr, thinned down acrylic paint is nice and better for basic colours (although not metallics).

 

3/ metallic acrylic paints can eithe be aplied on top of a white undercoat (like gold, for example) by just painting it on or DRYBRUSHING over a black background. drybrushing is where you dry a loaded paint brush in a cloth or piece of tissue paper and the lightly sipe it back and forth over the surface of the model. Its best if you do this for surfaces with lots of bumps (like chainmail, raised machine parts, guns, clothing, fur, etc). This meathod, however, creates a realistic effect and might deterr from the "comic" single colours used in most Tfs.

 

4/ Most acrylics need an undercoat. White, light grey or sometimes black are good.

 

5/ Acrylics need varshineing if you want the paint to last. If you have NO money, a poor mans' varnis can be made from thinned down PVA. This is the white glue used in most schools. Just thin it down to the consistency of skimmed milk and apply.

 

6/ When applying coats of paint or varnish with a aint brush, its best to apply many thin layers or watered down paint, than a few thick layers of chunky paint. this will help to creat a smooth effect.

 

Not sure if thats any use. I had to give up painting and model making after my mum used to punish me as a teenager by throwing all my minutures and models on the floor/agaisnt walls and breaking them!

Thx for the in depth reply Jackknife. Unfortunately my car broke down so it'll be a few more weeks before I can start on my project. (crosses fingers and hopes K-mart will still have some on the shelf) But when I do, I'll likely start a new thread to show off my progress and hopefully pick up more tips if I need them. {most likely, first time repainting transformers.}