Tramp

I snagged all three of the first wave of FoC figures, and love them all. Yes, Prime is small, and should be Voyager class, but he's still a gorgeous figure with a nice transformation and very G1-esque design in both modes. I do wish he had lightpiping though. Jazz, as well, is a sweet figure. He captures Jazz' appearance beautifully, and yes, he does have lightpiping, though it is very dark grey, and thus, not very effective. Shockwave is just damn near perfect. Very well designed, very well sculpted; he just screams Shockwave.

I just grabbed Cyberverse Legends class Evac. It's a great little figure, and very well detailed. I wish I could get a couple of the Deluxe versions.

I just snagged Cyberverse Legends class Evac. I wish I could get a couple of the Deluxe versions. Regardless, this is a sweet looking little figure.

I just picked up the Cyberverse Breakdown figure. He's a nice little figure, though I do wish he were Commander class instead of Legends class.

TFP Soundwave 10:10 A dead ringer for the character, downright creepy, and super posable, particularly in the upper body. I can't call his minion "Laserbeak" though. Laserbeak is a bird, This thing is more like a bat. Thus, he's Ratbat as far as I'm concerned. TFP Arcee 9.5:10 Damn-near perfect except for some needed paint apps and the need for duplicates of her weapons. Very screen accurate, nicely articulated, and very feminine looking. With some paint touch-ups, she's easily a 10:10.

For TFP figures so far to date, I have: Legion class Ratchet Legion Class Bumblebee Legion Class Arcee Legion class Cliffjumper LEgion Class Vehicon Commader class Bulkhead Commander Class Optimus Prime Commader class Megatron Deluxe Class Ratchet (RiD) Deluxe Class Bumblebee (RiD) Deluxe Class Wheeljack (RiD) Deluxe Class Cliffjumper (RiD) Deluxe Class Arcee (RiD) Deluxe Class Soundwave (RiD) Voyager class Optimus Prime (RiD) Voyager Class Megatron (RiD). My newest are Soundwave and Arcee, I just picked them up in the past couple of days. All I need now to complete the Autobots is Bulkhead.

I just snagged TFP RiD Bumblebee, and honestly, he's a nice little figure, IMO.Sure, they could have done something with that piece of bumper and grille sticking up behind his head, but, otherwise, he's a pretty sweet figure.

So far, I've managed to snag TFP Legends class Arcee, Ratchet, Bumblebee, Cliffjumper, and Vehicon, as well as Deluxe Class Ratchet and Voyager Class Optimus Prime. They are all sweet figures.

I just picked up TFP Legends class Ratchet from the Target store up on Niagara Falls Blvd. He's a sweet little figure too. They also had some Bumblebee's a Vehicon, and a few Cliffjumpers, but I only had enough for one figure. Now I'm broke 'til Friday.

I just got the The Generation One Complete Seasons 1 and 3 DVD sets. I still need to find the Season two sets.

MY RTS Windcharger figures just came in the mail today!!!! :yay :tfdance :tfdance :tfdance :yay

I picked up Guzzle today. He's a great little figure, and is going in with my CHUG collection, not movie bots. One more Wrecker joins the team.

Don't use the spray paint. Use a colored acrylic clear coat. I recommend Tamiya Color X-23 Clear Blue. It will add color while keeping the transparency of the windows, and provide a much sharper effect over the silver on the fins on either side of the head as well. As for modifying the head, you'll need some sheet styrene, an X-Acto knife, Dremmel tool, and some Jeweler's files, as well as some filler putty and liquid plastic welder (liquid model cement designed to weld styrene, acrylic, butyrate, ABS). There are a number if head sculpting and fabrication tutorials over at Sector70.com, here, including a head fabrication tutorial I wrote (it's an attached PDF). Any one of them will be useful to you.

Here ya go: Dying Tips by the late TF Master

Lobo had an article on it over at Transtopia which is now archived on Sector70 labs. Here: http://www.sector70.com/articles_pin.asp

According to TFMaster's guide, yes, you are supposed to keep heating it regularly as well a stirring constantly to make sure the plastic doesn't settle on the bottom. Here's is what the article said about heating: Don't turn off the heat until it starts taking the dye. Also, did you add a little acetone? That is supposed to help the plastic take the dye better.

You're welcome. I pop in now and again but spend most of my time on other boards or working on projects..

Yes, RIT dye works. It's what most kitbashers use to dye plastics. A common additive they usually add to it is a little acetone as well to allow the plastic to absorbe the dye better. Transtopia used to have a "how-to" article on dying plastics before it went down. Luckily, Sector 70 labs has TF Master's article saved and posted in its FAQ here: http://sector70.com/articles_dying.asp. I hope this helps.

1 for Styrene your best bet, IMO is a solvent based plastic welder like Ambroid Proweld. It's for Buterate, Styrene, ABS, and Acrylic. It's basically liquid model cement. 2 As Rodimus said, styrene, ABS anbd acrylic are the best to work with, the thicknesses determined by your needs. 3, for paints, acrylic model paints are best, IMO. They don't weaken the plastic, and are durable if you let them cure thouroughly and add a clear coat. I use mostly Tamiya Color brand, though I also use some Testors Model Master and Pactra Racing Finish as well. 4, I haven'ty used it myself, but a lot fo people swear by Future floor polish. It's an acrylic based floor polish, and is apparently very durable. 5 Definately get a Dremel tool. It is a God-send. 6 Many people use clear fingernail polish.

No, enamels won't, no matter the formula, because it is the laquers used in enamels which bonds to the plastics, and to do so requires a chamical reaction with the plastic. The Laquers simply can't bond with softer plastics. Secondly, the thinners used for acrylics are completely different from those used for enamels. Enamel thinners are petrolium based, such as tirpentine. Acrylic thinners are acetone or alcohol based. Acrylic thinners won't work on enamels and vice-versa. Given that I have removed factory paint from TFs using Tamaya acrylic thinner, this is further proof that their paint is acrylic, not enamel. as for the idea that tyey may be epoxy based, epoxies are too hard. They certainly are not flexible by any means. Epoxies are good for use on metal, not really for plastics, and certainly not for soft, flexible plastics. Takara used Epoxy paints on the car bodies because they were mad of metal, not plastic. Epoxies are the hardest, most durable paints, ideally suited for metal. However, that hardness is whatm makes it totally unsuited for plastic, which is flexible to varying degrees. Since Hasbopr uses the same paint on both their harder plastics and soft plastics like vinyl and urethane, that leaves acrylic based paint as the only option left. Epoxies are too hard and enamels won't cure. The only other option would be latex based paints, and those would be too soft.

I highly doubt that Hasbro uses epoxy paints, and not because of the expense. Epoxy based paints are predominantly used on metal, not plastics, and the finish is very different than either acrylics or enamels. Randomsabers.com uses Epoxy paints on their custom lightsabers, and there is a clear difference between the epoxy paint and acrylics or enamels. For one thing, epoxies are much harder; not just more durable, but physically harder and more rigid. Acrylics tend to be more flexible. As has been evidenced even among us kitbashers, who have stripped paint from these models, the methods used are the same as used to strip acrylic paints. Now, the actual formulas and quality of poaints used may be better quality and more durable than we can get at our local hobby store, but they are acrylic based paints.

I just found an interesting little tidbit that should, hopefully, not only settle the enamel vs Acrylic debate, but also answer the question of what type of paint Hasbro uses on its toys. Over at the Forgotten Force Ultimate Resource Guide, they have a "weekly" Q&A with Hasbro found here, and one of the questions revolved around how hasbro paints its figures. Here is the question and answer: Now, since we all know that Enamels will not cure or adhere to PVC or urethane type plastics, which is what Hasbro makes the heads, and limbs of their SW figures out of, they must be using acrylic based paints.

That depends upon the type of pins. Each has its own required method of removal. Lobo did an article, on Transtopia, on pin removal here. It is very thorough.

Are the pinstripes you're talking about custom painted on or factory stickers? That makes a big difference. That is why I suggested talking to an Autobody shop. If they're stickers, try GooGon.

For the mudflaps and steering wheel, Acrylics are your best bet. You might even want to try acrylic fabric paint or artist's acrylics, which is even more flexible. Unlike Enamels, acrylics will cure on any surface, so they will be fine on rubber and vinyl. As far as removing the pinstripes from the sides of the truck goes, You would be better off getting advice from an Autobody shop.