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Everything posted by WraithVerge

  1. Yes, it is Opimus Pwime. Depending on what's loose, it's possible. If it's his hip joints or knee-joints, simply tighten the screws on them. but i think you're referring to the mechanism that makes his legs retract for transformation, so here's how to do it: Disassemble the loewr legs, taking care to lay the parts and screws out in the order that you disassemble them. (Think "exploded-view", like in some of the tech manuals for cars and such.) on the thigh section, right below the knee, is the actual mechanism itself. Check it to see if there's any wear, and if necessary, push the spreaders (the upside-down "L" shaped plastic pieces that actually hold the knee in place) apart slightly to compensate. That's the best info I can give you at the moment, since I haven't owned this prime in a while. If anyone else here in the IGTKB has any info, please share.
  2. I'll have to keep this tip in mind. I wonder if it would work on G1 Prime's front wheels.......
  3. Okay, to kill three sujects at once: Autobot Loki: Plastic welder will strengthen the parts, but i would strongly recommend rebuilding the axles. styrene is notorious for being weak, especially when it's in thin, small parts. I would recommend using ABS plastic, like the parts runners from a gundam model (these have "ABS" printed right on the frame.). not all the frames are ABS; only certain transform parts. you can probably pick one up cheap at target or somewhere. But even if you just use a heavier plastic or metal pins or something, it's far better than the existing axles. In my opinion, they won't support the weight. Another option is the axles from another toy or something similar. Valandar and jourdo2k3: i've heard similar complaints about the availability of devcon plastic welder from other people. I'm beginning to wonder if it's a question of regional availability or something. You can try this link to see if the company itself can suggest where to buy it: http://www.devcon.com. But for the record, I don't recommend epoxy. While it's strong, it also tends to get brittle, especially in thinnner applications. Not what you want when attaching small parts that need high strength.
  4. OH, okay. Sorry. :D yeah, 1/8 of an inch is a good thickness to work with.
  5. Well, Valandar, that depends upon the kitbash itself, and what it requires. !.8 inches is almost 2 inches thickness.(!) That would be way too thick for the exterior of most kitbashes, but excellent if you plan on custom-fabricating a basic skeleton or structural piece for your work. Generally, about .020 or .030 is the reccommended thicknesses I will work with in plastics, but that's for polystyrene. I would say you hit a gold mine when it comes to ABS. A sheet that big can give you a LOT of basic parts to work from, and you can glue them together in laminated sections for larger and thicker parts. But I would definitely see if they have thinner sheets available as well.
  6. I like the idea, speedbullit. Go for it!! And as a point of fact, there's ONE person who never said that it was impossible: me. Nothing is impossible if you want it badly enough. So good luck with the grapple conversion speedbullit, and remember to post pics when you're done! BTW, DLP and speedbullit: these are the articles I'm looking for! Keep up the good work!
  7. okay everyone, BIG announcement for IGTKB: As of late, i've been finding myself answering tons of questions about kitbashing, as well as trying to give out the best advice i can. While I enjoy this thoroughly, it can be a bit much to keep up with, as well as trying to write up new articles to ever-broaden the IGTBK. Therefore, I have taken the step of enlisting the help of additional "editors" for this topic. These are people from TFans who have extensive expertise in the field of kitbashing and scratchbuilding, and whom I am completely confident can answer questions about kitbashing/scratchbuilding issues as well as devise new articles on the topic. Now, this by no means says I am leaving: i will still be writing both advice as well as articles, but i want to make sure that the Kitbash/scratchbuild community out there continues to get the best that the IGTKB can offer for resources. The contributing editors as of right now are: Rodimus VTS Speedbullit Rawhide Dark Lord Prime Black Arachnis If i got any names wrong, forgot someone, or if you wish to be a contributing editor, please pm me (NICELY, remember I am human after all!) and KINDLY let me know I forgot you or included you in wrongly , ect. :lol but with that, I now open up the idiot's guide to the new staff, and invite them to do as I have been doing for a while now: helping everyone out the best way I know how. -WraithVerge
  8. Okay, this should be simple: if the ball joint is a removeable component, you can try swapping it out with one that is the correct size. However, you may have to modify the part that holds the ball joint to the body in order to fit it correctly. if the above doesn't appeal to you, or that possibility doesn't exist, you can try this method: if the ball joint is too small for the head, you can coat the ball with plastic welder,allow it to harden, then sand and smooth it to the correct diameter. it can be a little tricky, but a good eye and a steady hand will give good results. if it's too large, shaving it down is the option for you: merely sand or scrape the ball down to a more manageable size, then smooth it out. in either case, don't worry about getting it perfectly spherical; as long asd if fits snugly and allows full range of movement, you can get away with it being slightly less than perfect. one thing i do NOT reccomend is resizing the ball-receptacle joint in the head. THAT takes a lot of expertise in carving and engraving, and one slip-up can ruin the entire head.( made that mistake many times myself)
  9. should be, along with the other krylon paints.
  10. generally, i use acryllic paints myself. they tend to be easier to apply, and you don't have to wait as long for them to dry. a word of caution though; after application, you will want to overspray them with krylon crystal-cote. this will protect them from damage from handling and wear and tear.
  11. okay, one by one; 1) flat or gloss depends on whether or not you plan on using water-slide decals. if yes, go with gloss. 2)yes. in fact, i use tamiya acrylics about as much as i do the regular ones9which is quite oftern!) 3) on fusion, it say for bare plastic, if i remember correctly.
  12. first, check to see if it's gloss or flat (I made the mistake of picking up two mismarked cans myself). Also, you may not have had it shaken enough as you said. Additionally, make sure it's warm enough where you're spraying: moisture and temperature can seriously affect paint application.
  13. Wal-Mart. Sears hardware also has it, but it's ridiculously expensive there.
  14. Yes, I do. There'a an entire section on repainting in the IGTKB. (this forum). But if you can't find it, here's a few tips: 1) wash the plastic to remove mold release from manufacturing 2) lightly buff the surface with 0000-grade steel wool 3) disassemble the model/toy into it's seperate components, according to color. Keep the screws in a plastic cup so you don't lose them. 4) use multiple thin coats rather than one heavy coat. It'll dry better. 1st layer: a light dusting. 2nd layer: "orange peel" (kinda incomplete: shouldn't cover totally) 3rd layer: almost heavy, but not dripping. if you get a fingerprin in it, don't panic. just let it dry, then lightly sand it out and repaint. If you get a run, same thing, only lay it a flat as possible, so the paint spreads out a little. sometimes, it can avaoid a run altogether.
  15. Polystyrol is probably another form of polystyrene. I'm not saying it can't be used, Rawhide. I only advocate caution in it's use. I myself use it for a lot of my kitbashes. It's just that one needs to know what it can and cannot do. But your idea for thickening the gun handle should work just fine; just take it slow and be neat, you'll be okay. :)
  16. I can't. No one carries it. Got another option? online, plastruct and evergreen plastics are available.
  17. By request.... The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 8: Styrene and Adhesives. Okay, In kitbashing, many of us have heard about a plastic called "styrene." The term seems to confuse a lot of folks, as well as how to work with it. It tends to mystify quite a few people. This post will outline everything you need to know about it, and how to work with it. First off, the name "styrene" is a clipped form of the plastic's chemical name "Polystyrene." It is a polymer (poly denotes more than two or three molecules in a chain) type of plastic. The chains that are formed in it's chemical composition make it maleable (able to be shaped) and ductile (able to be drawn into a thin filament). The plastic was first developed in the 1940's, and scince then has come into use in a variety of applications: CD Jewel boxes, for sale signs, cups (Styrofoam), and mostly, plastic model kits. Styrene is used in model kits because the chemical xylene dissolves it, while the chemical tolulene causes it to harden again after a couple of hours. The two together,(along with a liquid polymer to thicken it and oil of mustard to give it a tell-tale odor for anti-poison purposes) make up tube cement for models. Because of this, styrene can be "welded' by tube cement, and this is the basis of basic model building. Now, for applications, the forms styrene comes in are various, and developed by plastics manufacturers for various modeling puposes.m It comes in the following forms: Sheet styrene (various thicknesses and textures) Rod styrene Tube styrene Strip styrene And there are also various pieces used for different applications, in a whole seres of shapes and sized. Plastruct makes these, ranging from stair risers, to ladder-shapes and brick edifaces. But for now, we'll confine our discussion to the basics. The biggest reason styrene is favored by kitbashers is becaus the plastic is relatively easy to work and shape. Bonding it is also easy, and painting it requires no special prep work aside from washing it with dish detergent, and lightly scuff-sanding the surface. Plus, the plastic is relatively cheap too,(depending upon where you purchase it.) which keeps costs down for model manufacturers as well as plastic supply houses. With that said, styrene does have it's detractors. For one thing, it doesn't support weight when in smaller sizes ot thin sections. Another is that it has relatively low tensile strength. This means it can be twisted practically apart. In fact, many of it's plus properties are a two-edged sword in ways. Now, when working with styrene, it's strong enough to stand up on it's own as the exterior for a model, and when assembled properly, can comprise an entire kitbash. But from my experiences, it's better to use an understructure of ABS plastic (AcetylButylStearate), such as in the gundam models. In use, I usually glue the styrene to the kitbash using plastic welder by devon, or if it's ABS, just model cement. If it's a scratchbuild, I will generally construct a skeleton for the model using styrene or ABS, depending on the model, then use cement to attach the exterior parts to the frame. The I use the plastic welder to reinforce the pieces from within the frame, as well as to smooth out imperfections I the joints. For finishing touches, I use squadron white modeler's putty. I find squadron's putty works about the best for my project. But in working with styrene, the keyword is work SLOW. Build your basic shapes up from smaller parts, and then laminate these togethr to make your components. Working slow keeps you from making mistakes, and allows you to make corrections as you go. A WORD OF CAUTION: if a part won't stay on with model cement, DO NOT USE MORE. Model glue isn't "stickum." It works by disolving the area where you put it, in order to create a bond. When ou use it in excess, all it does is create a goopey mess! If you ned to bond something quickly, use super glue or contact cement. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see glue come out when you place the part, then you've used too much. On the subject of adhesives, there are several that are available for use on styrene. As mentioned before, there's model cement. this comes in two forms, liquid and tube. Liquid is just that: a liquid formm of the tube cement, without the polymer. This is used by putting the pats to be joined together, and then letting the glue run between the pieces using 'capillary action. " While this tends to dry faster, it's aslo a lot trickier. Another adhesive is CyanoAcrylate (no, it doesn't contain cyanide!), commonly called "Super Glue." this glue forms rigid molecular bonds in second, allowing it to adhere to practically everything. Unfortunately, I find it too brillte to use on anything that transforms. But it is useful for attaching small pieces as well as filling in holes. I reccommend using the gel type, along with an accelerator. This makes the glue dry instantly in larger applications. A third type of adhesive is epoxy. This is a two-part adhesive that stays chemically neutral until introduced with it's counterpart component. Upon mixing, the two create a chemical reaction that causes heat (careful with that model!) and 'cures" the glue. The only detractor is that epoxy can be too brittle when used in thin applications, and tends to crack in thin layers. But it excels in larger applications, and is almost unbeatable for shaping bodies. The last adhesive I wish to mention is Plastic Welder. I do tend to push this one quite a bit, but it's for the foloowing reasons; it cures faster than epoxy, accepts primer and paint well, sand smoothly, and is very resillient and strong. It's practically liquid plastic. I've used it to make my own parts, and it's speed allows you to attach main parts to your project, and 15 minutes later be able to paint and use it. But one detractor it has is that it STINKS when used. Well, that's about everything I know about styrene and the adhesives to use with it. As always, any questions, comments or suggestions, just post them here, and...um...hmmm. I seem to have glued my fingers together.....
  18. dleted because info is no longer valid.
  19. fairly strong, especially in thicker sheets. you can get it from your local hobby store.
  20. answer posted in your topic, e. soundwave.
  21. NEWS FLASH FROM IGTKB: One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon! -WV
  22. Okay, sit down everyone...class is in session.... The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 7: Detailing. Detailing is the art of putting in thos fine touches that seperate a masterpiece from a finished piece. It's the craft of adding in the small details that bring a ho-hum replica to life.... Or, it can ruin it. This installment is all about putting on those finishing touches, and how to avoid putting on too much or the wrong ones. So let's get started... First off, know how much is enough: Some modelers only put the bare minimum into their customs, and others will try to pump as much detail in as they can. Knowing how much is enough is key here. Too little detail will make the custom look uninteresting and "pedestrian," while too much detail can obscure the lines of the custom and make it look far too "busy." Either way, it can do your custom in. A good idea is to take photos of your custom, and scan them into a computer. Then, photoshop or another similar program can then be used to add in the details you want. Then you can see what it would look like with the details you added, all without ruining your kitbash. Plus, if you don't like something, you can change it instantly! Secondly, keep it SUBTLE: Many kitbashes that I have seen were all plagued by the same thing: detail that stuck out like a sore thumb. If your robot has yellow eyes, fine. But unless he has Q-beams for eyes, they don't need to be neon yellow! Think about it: they're photo-receptors, not photo-GENERATORS. Additionally, wires, pumps, circuits and other parts aren't going to be so brightly colored that they could light up times square! They're components, not crayons.(why give your enemy something to AIM AT?) Subtlety is the keyword here; making it JUST noticable is what you want to do. Often, the best details are noticed subliminally. So a few small, barely noticeable details is far better than a whole plethora of gaudy, garish ones that look like you're trying to signal an alien civilization!!! Third, keep it appropriate: As much as badly done details can ruin a good kitbash, so too can inappropriate details. Everything from wires all over the place, to camouflage on race cars, to racing stripes all over your Autobot or Decepticon city. Keep in mind: armor is there for a reason. If you have something exposed, it has to be for a reason. putting a vital part right in the middle of a chestplate or leg is not too smart, unless the transform calls for it to be there. Most of the original transformers had their decals on surfaces that were hidden in alt mode, so it might be a good idea to put the most detail on mating surfaces that would join in alt mode. Fourth, Keep it neat: A simple, clean looking detail is far better than a complicated messy one. Many successful kitbashed I've seen stuck with simple color schemes, and simple, but strong details. Those are the ones, that for my money, are the best ones. But whatever you decide to do, make sure that it is neat and clean. In scale models (which are what alternators and customs/kitbashes really are), the smaller the model, the more a badly-done detail will be noticable. And at the scale we work at in transformers, every litlle thing is going to stand out. Now that we have the theory out of they way, let's discuss a few techniques for doing details: 1) Painting: This is usually a good way to add in details such as colors for the eyes, accents for the body like silver or gold parts, components like red, green and yellow buttons or modules on the exterior, and designs n the surface. I usually use a 00 or 000 brush for most of my work, along with Scotch magic tape to mask off certain items. (when called for.) For detailling paints, I use Apple Barrel colors from wal-mart, delta's ceramcoat, and tamiya's acryllic colors. These dry quickly, and allow me to do an entire project in one sitting. The only drawback is that they require krylon crystal coat to keep them from chipping. But I find it's worth the trade-off. But whatever you use, remember to use the appropriate size and type brush. 2) Markers/Pens: For lettering and certain details, I prefer writing implements. They give me far more control than a paintbrush will allow. On certain projects, I will use a medium to dark grey micron brand pen (the smallest tip they have, 000) to draw in panel lines on my piece, rather than do a "wash." And when combined with scotch tape to mask the upper and lower borders, you can't beat pens to do lettering. Markers I use far less frequently, but I still use them for times when I need a certain effect. (like oil streaks on aircraft landing gear or a purplish tint to a black color.) Use markers sparingly; they tend to get streaky on plastic, and tend ro rub off after a while. 3) Decals/Labels: Decals, like on model kits, are also a good way to detail out your replicas. The best part about them is that you can even make them yourself, using clear or white blank decal paper, photoshop, and an inkjet printer. Photoshop is ideal for designs and insignias; you can even copy ones you like that are too complicated for most folks to do. Plus, when printing them out, you can make extras in case you mess up or they get damaged. Labels, like those from other transformers/Reprolabels, are another way to do detailing. Take a look at a certain label that you think would look cool on your kitbash, and just stick the thing on!!! A word of advice though: try to trim it so it doesn't look EXACTLY like the label you took, ot someone is liable to recognize it. ("hey!! that's G1 Optimus' forearm label!!!") 4) Spare Parts/Odd Parts In my work, rather than paint in wires and suggest components with decals/labels, I will actually get a bundle of small wires from an old walkman, or little knickknacks from odd electronics and old kits from around the house, and glue them on or install them. Of course, this is space and transform permitting, but it adds so much more when the wires you see suggested ther are REALLY there. THAT blows people away! Now, before I go, there's one last word of advic I'd like to leave you with: Make it for YOU: The biggest mistake many kitbashers make with detailing is that they're trying to IMPRESS SOMEONE ELSE with their skills. A word of advice: don't. It will only cause you to make mistakes on your detailing. I've seen too many customs ruined because someone wanted to beat out some else's version, or was trying to build something to blow someone else away. Don't get me wrong: there's nothing wrong with being competitive, or building something for someone as a favor or commission. But when you start doing stuff to it that you normally wouldn't, just to impress someone, that should be your first warning!! Detail a model/custom/kitbash the way YOU think it looks good. Use YOUR best judgment on it; built it they way YOU think it should be built. That's the BEST way to make a detailed custom that wil turn heads. Well, that's enough for this session. As always, If you have any questions or comments, or need help with a project, feel free to leave a post here at IGTKB. Or if you need to, PM or email me. Now, where's my chalk......?
  23. Okay, opticon. Cool!! :D As long as it's used in the right places, epoxy definitely has it's uses.
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