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WraithVerge

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Everything posted by WraithVerge

  1. Good article, Rodimus! :thumb I recently had my masterpice Convoy's knee break on me after a fall, so I know what a royal pain it is to piece the knee back together. Takara should have put a little more thought into the design IMO, but that's a debate for another day.) This info is great stuff! I'll be sure to use it. -WV
  2. No problem. :thumb Just happy I could be of assistance.
  3. Alumilite. It's the best casting resin I can think of. Better hobby shops carry it. It comes in two parts that you have to mix. In fact, they sell starter kits that have RTV (room temperature-vulcanizing) rubber you can use for molds, the two-part mix, and the mold-release agent to keep the parts from adhering to the mold. For yopur money, this is the best thing I can think of. For additional help on this go to: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/tiplist.cfm this link should bring you right to their mold and casting library. Hope this helps you out. -WV
  4. As long as it works, then run with it.
  5. Okay, a few basics on chrome: 1) the chrome on most toys is applied via a vacuum-metalizing process. This requires the plastic to be absolutely grease-free. (which is why crome parts are so brittle.) 2) The "chrome" paints that are out there are not chrome per se, but particles of metal suspended in a base medium. What these two points mean is that chrome paints will not give you the absolute same look as chrome. That being said, the closest chrome paint I have ever seen is the one put out by Krylon. Another point: chrome paint, by its' nature, has a very tenuos hold on the plastic once applied. This means that it comes off fairly easily with repeated handling. You can try applying a sealer over it, but then it will look simply like glossy silver paint. I don't know if you plan on this base coat being a base for another transparent color coat, or if it is going to be a base color with secondary colors as accents, but if you plan on painting it chrome, also plan on not transforming it much or handling it, as the paint is just not very durable. Concerning having parts chromed: there are electroplating and chroming shops around, depending upon where you live. I'm not exactly sure on prices; you would have to contact them concerning that issue. The best thing to do is a few searches on good ol' google or lycos. They may charge a bit more for smaller runs of chroming, but it would all depend upon the shop. Finally, if you do plan on using chrome paints, make ABSOLUTELY sure that the plastic surface is PERFECT; chrome paint WILL show every scratch, pit, ripple, and ALL surface imperfections. Be prepared to polish the entire surface of the model like you would transparent plastic. Otherwise, the results will be less than pretty. Well, that's about all the info I have on this for you. I will consult with my colleagues here at IGTKB to see what they have on this. Other than that, I hope this helps you out. Good luck. :thumb -WV
  6. Okay, I can't really make out the damage on the arm. If you could describe in detail the actual damage (along with closer pics, if possible.), I think I can help. But right now, it looks to me like his arm is missing at the elbow. As for the peg being stuck in his hand, it is far from beyond repair: 1: check to see if the hole goes all the way through his hand. If so, just use a small screwdriver to GENTLY tap it out. 2: If not, using a drill smaller than the hole, GENTLY drill partway into the peg, then pull it out using the drill as an auger. (think like you're pulling out a wine-cork!) 3: to repair the handle: either find another gun with a similar-size peg, or use a piece of thick model-kit sprue that is the same size as the peg.(the runner-tree from the frame that holds the parts.). Just cut it to length, then use devcon plastic welder to glue it into place. You can use krylon fusion to repaint the gun so no one knows it was ever damaged. size, then drill a hole into
  7. Well, don't be too hard on yourself; trial and error is how I learned about 99% of my skills. The good news is that skywarp is salvageable. (his arm is reparable!) Okay, here we go by the numbers: 1: Krylon crystal-cote- this acryllic coating dries in 15 minutes and can be handled in one hour. It doesn't yellow or chip like the cheaper clear-coats, and can be recoated almost instantly, rather than waiting 4 hours. It's the only one I'll use on my projects. Accept no imitations; ask for the original. :) 2: That would be easier if they were clear instead of a clear color. The best I can suggest is to use a transparent blue (Tamiya makes a good acryllic one), but it's going to be a greenish-blue (if you can live with this, the cool.) otherwise, you may have to live with the green. 3:I used to use folkart acryllics, but now I generally use Tamiya acryllics. (these are found at the better hobby stores.) They are more resillient than the craft acryllics available right now, and thin using alcohol. 4: For paintbrushes, I generally go with sable-hair brushes. They are fine enough for detail work, and leave no paintbrush marks, provided you thin the paint right. I generally buy the multpacks that have the small flat brushes as well as small round ones. (sizes 1 through 000) The 000-round brushes are for fine details, while the small flats are good for covering small areas of color. BTW; a good airbrush (badger 600 is the one I use) goes for about 50 dollars at the store I patronize. Also, testors manufactures a "spray-cap" system that allows you to mix your own colors and spray them. (it goes for 12 bucks at wal-mart.) 5: Simple: Krylon grey primer. Like the crystal-cote, it dries quickly. IMPORTANT: for darker colors, use grey primer, but for the lighter ones, a flat white paint will do. All primer is is a flat monochromatic (one color) paint that allows you to spot imperfections, and acts as an interface between the plastic and the finish coats. 6: I generally wait until the spray paint is fully dry before reassembly. It takes a little longer than the acryllic. BTW, in the areas where the clearcote is interfering with transformation, use 440-grit sandpaper to polish away the excess clearcote (CAREFULLY, so you don't wear the paint away!), thenpolish with 0000-grade steel wool and carefully reassemble. As for the missiles and weapons, let me guess: the paint is sticky. A lot of the weapons are made from soft polypropylene plastic, which enamel will not dry properlly on. The good news is that these can be recued with 91% isopropyl alcohol.(located in the HBA or pharmacy section.) Rgearding the arm and gun: either try to post a pic or describe the damage to the pieces. I can guide you through the repair process. But what I generally use for a "glue" is devcon plastic welder system. This stuff makes super glue look pathetic. Not only is it strong, but also it is as durable and has the same resillience as the original plastic. A "syringe" of it costs $2.50 at wal mart. Finally, treasure clear cote SUCKS. I used it ONCE. NEVER AGAIN. At any rate, I hope all this is of assistance to you, Hot-Shot!. If you have any other questions, please post here, or feel free to shoot me an email or PM me. I'm looking forwards to hearing from you on this. Good luck! :thumb -WV
  8. Both of these are excellent articles, Lobo. Good job!!! :thumb Maybe you could write some for us sometime here at IGTKB! :D
  9. to do an accurate red metallic, I would use a chrome silver undercoat as a base, the after that dires for about a week, go with a transparent red overcoat. this should give you the metallic appearance you're looking for. -WV
  10. Hmm, been actually thinking about that. Let me get back to y'all on that one.
  11. stress mark, huh? okay, there's a way to fix that too. You see, the plastic, when stressed. is actually just beginning to come apart at the molecular level. what you need to do is burnish the area with a hard metal item, like a rod of some type (like the ones that come with model rocketry sets). Set the hood down on a folded-up towel, and burnish the plastic carefully. this should eliminate the mark.
  12. Yes, there is: toothpaste. Seriously, while they have "rubbing compounds" out there for automotive finishes, these are rather expensive, and can leave a residue that is difficult to rinse off. Toothpaste is essentially a rubbing compound for your teeth; sillica (sand) in a sugar/saccarine (I THINK that's how it's spelled) paste. At any rate, it won't hurt the plastic, and it rinses with plain ol' water. I use this to polish Aircraft model canopies and other transparent plastics. Give it a try, and let me know how it works for you! Good luck with Shocky! :) -WV
  13. AoiJuuni, try asking them about "sheet styrene and styrene pieces." Evergreen plastics and plastruct makes them. If they still look at you funny, chances are these cretins have never seen a model kit before in their lives. -WV.
  14. It's 2.50. I don't have paypal, so just send a money order when you get it. I'll also let you know how much shipping will be.
  15. tell you what: I have to buy some next week. I'll get two tubes and send you one. :)
  16. STPrime: There's several techniques to remove the wheels from the alternator series of TransFormers, but the trick is using the few that won't destroy either the wheel or the part it's attached to. Even if you're pulling it off with your bare hands (risky), it can damage the plastic axle that the metal pin is attached to. If you have no way of heating the pin, I would recommend grasping the head of the pin with a pair of pliers, or even better, vise-grips. This is risky as well, due to the fact that if they slip, the pliers/vise grips can seriously ding up the chrome on the wheels. Then it's just a matter of working the pin out of the axle. But if possible, I strongly recommend that you try DLP's heat method. It seems the best and easiest way to remove the pins w/o damage to the wheels. Hope this helps you out! :) -WV
  17. here's the link to the company that manufactures it: http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=182 The box is different, but the tube is the same. Look for it on a blue and grey card. BTW, they even have a distrubutor locator on the page, so you can find the nearest store that sells it. Hmm...they sell it in 10 GALLON containers???!!!! *begins scrounging cash*
  18. Definitely. brands to avoid: Plasti-Cote Dupli-Color ANY store brand (Ames dependable, wal-mart brand, sears brand, ect.) In fact, testors, pactra and Krylon are best. AT ALL COSTS DO NOT EVER USE RUST-OLEUM. IT WILL DISOLVE YOUR PROJECT!!!
  19. Okay...it's been a while. Time for a new one. The Idiot's Guide To Kitbashing 9: DISASTERS In kitbashing and scratchbuilding, nothing gives one more satisfaction than a job well done, and a brand-new kitbash to show pics of to your friends. Conversely, nothing causes more grief and frustration than something going horribly wrong, and your project sits there on ther table in pieces (or a puddle of goo, depending on what happened!) because of an unforeseen problem. Sometimes things don't work out as planned, or something that looked good on paper didn't look as good in 3-d, or you just got through painting your kitbash and it LOOKED dry, but when you picked it up..... AAAAAUUUUUGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!! It's enough to make the hardiest soul want to pack it in and just sit down in a corner and cry. But whatever the disaster, don't give up. In case of emergency: Step 1: step back and take a deep breath. Step 2: DO NOT PANIC Step 3: accept the situation, and try to identify the problem Step 4: If necessary, get on the internet and consult the IGTKB But out of all the advice I can give, the two biggest things are DO NOT PANIC, and try to identify the problem as precisely as you can. Here's a few things that just may make the difference: 1) Desig Flaws: A good majority of scratchbuilding problems (as well as kitbashing ones) start at this level. Something that looked good on paper and seemed to work out just didn't cut it when put into action. The good news about this is that often, all it is is one part or piece that throws everything else off. You see, in designing transforms (as well as modifying them), tolerances between two pieces often come down to a matter of millimeters. All it takes is for one piece to be off just a litlle, and it resonates throughout the entire project. When a part is slightly off, it throws other parts slightly off, each of which in turn throw other parts slightly off, untill milimeters turn into gaping openings and gross misalignments. The solution here is to do a little "detective work" before reahing for the dremel tool, sandpaper, or exacto knife. You need to trace the problem back to it's origin, and many times this is not easy. But it beats doing a lot of unnecessary cutting and grinding, and many times it's just one little piece that needs coaxing with a bit of trimming or sanding. Now, with that said, the best solution is prevention. And the best way to do this: TEST FIT OFTEN. Don't be afraid to do mock-ups, and do some 'dry-runs' of the transform sequence often. You'll be surprised what you'll find when you do this. As for major design flaws....well that isn't so easy. If you run into a major foul-up late in the game, it's not irreparable. But keep in mind that you may have to do a LOT of reworking on your project, and it probably won't be easy. But if you take it slow and don't get frustrated, it's often not as bad as you think. 2) Warped Parts: This happens a lot with model kits, and I'm listing it here because many of us use model kits as a basis for our projects: you get a piece that is twisted and warped, and it just refuses to stay straight. Quite frankly, it looks like someone put it in a full-nelson! the cause of this is that the part comes to rest the wrong way when it comes out of the mold at the factory. The solution is simple: 1) for minor warps, simply start guing at one end, and clamp it down. Then work along the part, gluing each section little by little, and claming each section, until the length of it is done. 2: for severly twisted parts, immerse the part in hot (NOT BOILING) water for about 60 seconds, the twist it in the opposite direction. make sure to compensate for it twisting back by 'overtwisting' it slightly, so that it untwists just enough as it cools to be in alignment. 3) Paint Problems: Cracking and peeling: This is caused bypainting over either an surface that wasn't properly cleaned, or a previously applied layer of paint that is incompatable with the current brand/type you are using. The biggest problem with this is that sometimes this occurs after a couple of weeks have passed (and decals and other goodies have been applied.) Unfortunately, in either case, you are going to have to strip the part or project back down to the bare plastic and repaint it. Once again, prevention is the best cure; make sure your parts are cleaned with alcohol, and you use the same or compatible brands of paint. "Fogging" or misty clearcoat: Your model looks as if someone just dipped it in powdered sugar. this is caused by either too much moisture in the air when you are spraying, or in the case of dullcote, the can wasn't shaken enough, and some of the talc used as a flattening agent has settled to the bottom, coming out in huge amounts towards the end. Thankfully, this one has two easy fixes: the first to try is to simply respray the project or part with another layer of clear/dullcote. This SHOULD, in 99% of cases, resolve the problem. For the 1% that it doesn't, simply use denatured alcohol on it. ( BE CAREFUL with this stuff; use neoprene gloves!!! it can absorb through skin and latex!!! POISON!!) Be GENTLE as you use it, and simply rub away the offending coating until it clears, then respray. Simple, huh? Foreign item in wet paint: You just sprayed, and dust/hair/ other landed on your paint job. The solution: pick it out CAREFULLY with tweezers, and LET IT DRY. then when the paint is fully dry, wet-sdand the damaged area, and respray/repaint the sanded area. Thumbprint in wet paint: we've ALL done this one- we thought the paint was dry, so we pick up the piece to see, and to our horror: A HUGE HONKIN' THUMBPRINT!!! @%#$#%^#$!!!! Now, our first natural reaction is to 'fix' it, namely by trying to 'smooth ' the afflicted area. DON'T. Instead, let it dry. (Trust me on this.) after the area is FULLY dry, wet sand the area with 220-grit paper, then 440. finally, go to 0000-grade steel wool. be gentle as you go, removing ONLY the damaged paint. Then simply respray as usual. 4) Glue on transparent plastic: another one we all have had experience with; model glue getting on clear plastic, ruining it. (usually just as we're about to finish the project!) This is enough to make you want to rip your hair out by the roots! To solve this, let the glue dry. trying to wipe it off will only make things worse (unless the entire canopy has just been deluged by glue!!). then, start sanding it with 220-grit sandpaper. Then 440-grit, then 600-grit, until you come to 0000-grade steel wool. Don't worry that the piece looks all scratched up. Just keep sanding LIGHTLY, taking care not to change the dimensions of the parts. Now, you're going to use TOOTHPASTE to polish the part. (toothpaste= silica abrasive used to 'polish" teeth.) or you can use rubbing compound, found in automotive paint sections of wal mart and pep-boys. Lastly, a coat of Future acryllic floor wax, and your damaged clear plastic part is as good as new! Toothpaste: saviour of windshields everywhere..... While these aren't the only problems you'll run into in doing your projects, they are the most common that I've found. Hopefully, this will help many of you out. As usuall, all questions, tips and comments can be posted here. Now...to redesign my thumbprint in toothpaste with cracked paint.... :P
  20. yeah, one would think. I really hate how some supplies that could really help out kitbashers are in really scarce supply.
  21. Actually, I believe someone made up energon cubes for display purposes. I don't know exactly who, but it might be reprolabels. i recall seeing omething to that effect somewhere on the internet. I'll check it out. As for kitbashing some cubes, try going to wal-mart and looking in the stationary department for clear plastic office holders. (You know, ones that hold papers, in boxes and what-not.) the plastic on those is a bit thicker. also, they should have clear plastic clip boarrds at your local dollar store that are luminescent in color. the pink ones in particluar(or purple; take your pick) might be what you need.
  22. on the first one: It depends upon the price of the material. i know of a lot of people that throw away the jewel cases when they put their cd's into cd binders. So you can ask for the old jewel cases. i merely wanted to point out an alternate source of styrene. sometimes when you're in a pinch, you need what you can get. On the second one; i think a lot of the trailers people are using look a little small compared to prime's cab. What i do is a "forced perspective" technique, when I have g1 prime closer to me, and the prospective trailer and 20th optimus farther away. this makes them both look the same scale. it's then that i can tell that the trailer looks too short, too low, or generally too small. I would say that 20th Prime's trailer should be about 1/20th-1/22 scale. anything else looks too small to me. Another way to tell is to take a look at G1 prime: when in vehicle mode, the roof nof the cab hits the halfway mark vertically on the trailer. on 20th, when using a 1/24 or smaller trailer, the roof of the cab hits the 3/4 mark. i consider this too small. Also, prime's trailer should be at least twice as long as his cab.
  23. Thanks, AutobotLoki. We certainly do try our best here. :)
  24. Okay, another announcement for everyone: We have a new addition to the IGTKB Editorial Staff. I'd like everyone to welcome Johnny Reb to the team.
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