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WraithVerge

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Everything posted by WraithVerge

  1. I usually use scotch tape (frosted) for masking. If you can't use it (afraid it will pull up paint) try post-it notes. (believe me, THEY WORK!!!)
  2. Goo-gone or 91 percent rubbing alcohol will get them off, but with the alcohol, be carefull of paintwork underneath; it will remove paint in strong enough applications.
  3. amethysted, Don't worry about being a "basic" kitbasher; we all start out that way! :lol In all seriousness, for model plastics (styrene) you SHOULD NOT use paint thinner. It tends to make it brittle, and it eventually destroys it. For paint removal, I would start out with 91% Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (available at most pharmacies.) If that doesn't work, you can try paint thinner, but I suggest trying it on an inconspicuous area with a cotton swab first. The best method I've come across is spraying easy-off oven cleaner on , and leaving the project overnight, (READ THE CAUTIONS FIRST!!!) Then, simply rinse it off the next morning (note; DO NOT USE on soft or clear plastics!) I would use this one only if the first two don't work. Now, to repaint it, use Krylon spray paint. it dries a lot quicker, and has less fuss than most other spray-paints. Most folks here would recommend krylon fusion spray paint (specially formulated for plastics) but it takes a little more doing to use. At any rate, if you need any additional help or advice, PM me or any of the gang here at The idiot's guide. We'll be happy to help you out however we can! Godd luck on magnus! keep us posted! :thumb -WV
  4. AoiJunni, I was the one who said you could revive plastics with vaseline, but that only replaces the oils lost from the plastic and prevents it from cracking or breaking from age. The colors in ABS plastics are dyes used in the initial manufacturing process. Your friend could try using RIT dye to re-dye the plastic (I've heard quite a bit about that technique from other KBers here at TFans). If any of the KBer's here have info on that process, please post! :thumb As for un-yellowing plastic, I mistakenly said that you could use oxy pads to whiten yellowed plastics: in truth, that techniqe removes magic marker from plastics. (MY BAD!!! :lol) To be honest, I'm still researching that one myself. Perhaps bleach might work, but it may weaken plastics. I think your best bet would be the dyeing techniqe, but I can't promise or guarantee the results. Good luck to you and your friend on the legos! -WV
  5. Depending upon the body style and details, you may be able to modify the body of the alt to what you want. ) an alt swindle would be your best bet.) If that isn't possible, a complete reshell may be the only remedy. On a side note, I agree with FG: reshells are NOT for beginners, at least, not alone. If you decide to undertake this Koolbeans, take it SLOW and ask for help at every step. The close tolerances, body parts strength problems, along with structural integrity issues of parts after removing original body panels and transform conflict issues can complicate matters greatly. Now that I'm back, I'm planning on doing a section here specifically for reshells. It's been something that I've had to wrestle with on Hunter Rose's two projects that he entrusted to me (YES, they are STILL in progress! That's how hard it can get!!!), and I've learned quite a bit.
  6. Thanks FG. I wouldn't have guessed the glue issue on either alt prowl or mirage. :thumb
  7. Okay, by the numbers Retread! :D, 1) Humidity CAN play a factor in paint application, especially if you're using clearcoat. I suggest an ac that removes humidity from the air (like the more recent ones out lately.) Barring that, wait until a nice sunny day and open the windows. This should also help in the ventillation. 2) Retouch markers are good for retouching, but trying to paint an entire one with a marker is going to look kinda cruddy, due to the inevitable streak marks.A lot of car parts ARE plastic nowadays, so I wouldn't worry too much about that (just in case, test on a scrap piece first for compatibility!); and detailling should be just fine as long as the paint won't run, sag or rub off. In any event, I suggest finding the small retouching spray cans of that color at a good automotive shop like autozone. most colors are to federal paint chip standards, so just record the name and number, and you should have no problems locating the right color. 3) For reshells, it can be a bit of guesswork. The method I use is making a copy of the instructions of the vehicle mode from a side view for both the alt and the donor shell. (both to scale!) That can solve a lot of problems. Also, general estimating about size and shape can help, but I'd be a bit more concerned about what will hapen to shell parts during the transform process. Planning is essential in this phase; proceed slowly and don't be afraid to measure and remeasure before cutting ANY plastic. 4) Glued parts? Not really to my knowledge, although that would largely depend upon the alternator in question. I would try working the part free before using any strong chemical removers. If that fails, start with good ol' rubbing alcohol, and work from there. Now for specifics: 1)If it's something that is required for structural stability, glue it just in case. Parts often have a very nasty habit of popping off after a fall or other unforseen incident, and becoming lost forever. Then it turns out that piece just so happens to be the single most rarest, most coveted ebay-bound item in existence! :lol At any rate, just glue it and save yourself the grief. 2) Yes. The number one rule is that if you can't get it off or out, then it's a screw or pin that you can't easilly see. I'd take a closer look under that hood, but from experience, I think it's another screw. 3) Don't worry; just keep it here. This thread is for JUST this kind of thing, general or specific! BTW, thanks for the compliment, but I can't take all (or even MOST) of the credit: a lot of dedicated folks have posted (and continue to post) valuable info and tips here. All the same thank you for the compliment! We certainly try our best here; so don't be afraid to ask for help! Good luck on your project! :thumb! -WV
  8. Still looking for Cybertron Primus (probably isn't out yet), but I finally got Exillon yesterday. (Hot Shot repaint)
  9. I'll bet everyone's been waitiong for a new installation to this since...well... forever! The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 10: Working with Transparent Plastics. Ahhh...transparent plastic; this one gives everyone I know the willies, and then some. I've touched upon this on many of the previous installments (NO, NOT TOOTHPASTE AGAIN WV!!! FOR THE LOVE OF PRIMUS!!!), but not in the depth that I would really like to. Working with transparent plastic is more than merely keeping scuffmarks off it and cracks out of it. Utilized correctly, it can add a special flair to your kitbash; when used wrong, look like the guest of honor at a 50 car pileup!!! Right, to work then: MATERIAL SPECIFICS: Most of the clear plastics we use fall into one of 3 recognizable categories- 1) Styrene: this form is what we see in CD jewel cases and model kits. Very notorious for it's susceptibility to cracking, scuffing, melting by model glue, and just plain breakage. It's the easiest to mold using heat, but a royal pain just to try to glue in place! It's weakness is due to the fact that the platric is "pure": that is , no colors, dyes or tints. because of this, it's crystal clear, but weak as all hell. 2) Plexiglas/Acrylates: this stuff is by far stronger, but a lot of work just to shape. It's harder, which is a plus. This hardness is also a detractor when using a dremel too. (not to mention the horrid smell it gives off when being cut or sanded with said dremel tool!) 3) "Soft" transparent plastics: this variety is the kind TF Cybertron Red alert's windshields and G1 toys' clear parts are made from( among others) NOt as susceptible to cracking, but once damaged, almost impossible to ever resurface (even with toothpaste!) 4) Resins/Epoxies: using chemicaly-created plastics to render transparent parts. works okay for translucent parts, will not usually render crystal-clear items. In my kitbashes, I'll usually use one of the first two in constructing clear parts. Number three is just too much to even try considering, unless it composes an unremovable vital part of the 'bash. TECHNIQUES: 1) Vaccu-forming: this process involves using a vaccuum table to force heated plastic into shape via suction. works well on convex items; concave items suffer greatly in the process. Namely used for aircraft canopies. The said vaccuum table can be expensive, but Finescale Modeller magazine had an article a few years back on how to build one from scratch for under 80 bucks. 2) "Heat and smash" : this involves heating a sheet of transparent plastic (usually styrene) until it's almost beginning to melt, then pulling it down ("smashing") over a convex mold. usefull for canopies and other such parts, but it wastes a lot of plastic. 3) Conventional molding: this involves usuing a highly-polished mold to cast the parts. unavailable to most modellers due to cost of molding and air-cleaning equipment. For most of the Kitbashers here, I recommend the first two procedures; number three is just impractical on many levels, although a company at CultTVman.com called Don's Light and Magic (DLM) casts clear parts for star wars/star trek models. Additionally, infor on using resins and molds can be found at starshipmodeler.com, but I am not familiar with these processes. At any rate, a few things to keep in mind when using these specific plastics: 1) Kid-Gloves: Especially with the styrene-based parts. Transparent parts, by their nature, show cracks, scratches, and imperfection far more readily than their solid counterparts. and in trhe same vein, they are much harder to repair. (although I am trying new techniques, will publish soon!) But in hindsight, it is just far easier to be careful in the first place, and not rush a careful job just to get the project done early. 2) Test-fit and refit often: Even more so than "solids', clear plastics must fit as perfect as possible BEFORE final assembly. Once in, unless you can pull off a trick or two and hide the imperfections along the edge, a misshapen or damaged parts is extremely hard to "re-engineer" once it's attached permanently. it's just easier to keep test-fitting it and removing material in slight degrees: you can always remove more, but you can't add once it's gone! 3) Polsih, polish, polish: final polishing should be done after final assembly, during the pre-paint phase. After that, you shouldn't see the plastic again until you remove the masking. Anything other than that (unusual circumstances excluded), and you're asking for kitbashing grief. Well, that's the low-down on this session: as always, any questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to post them here! WV out!!!
  10. Exactly. Only use it for parts that are clear, like windows and canopies. I would look into ABS plastics as well, since most vcrs, game system cases and other electronic items are made of it. Try looking for junked electronic items and such. They're readily avcailable, and abs plastic is a bit more durable than styrene.
  11. Rodimus: use toothpaste to polish the windshield. Different plastics react differently to clearcoat. some of the soft clear plastics, like those used on Cybertron red alert, will frost when hit with clearcoat. Others, like clear polystyrene, will take it well. Personally, i would use futer floor acryllic as a clearcoat for most clear plastics.
  12. simple: toothpaste. I use toothpaste to polish clear plastic, so it shouldn't harm the plastic you're using. The process for real shiny plastic is to use increasingly fine grades of sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool, then toothpaste. Then, if you want a knock-em dead shine, use future floor acrylic as the final touch. NOTE TO TFans KBers: I'm in the process of moving, so don't panic if I'm not around for a while. I'll be back on regularly soon! -WV
  13. No problem. BTW, don't get nervous about doing reshells; just take it slow, and if you get stuck or don'yt know how to proceed, just ask us here at IGTKB. We're here to help! :thumb -WV
  14. Well, I'm currently doing a re-shell myself, and let me tell you: in this case, size DOES matter. You see, the expression 1:25 is actually a fraction. It means that the model is 1/25th the size of the original. This goes for all models (a 1:1 , for example, would mean that the model is the exact scale of the original, while 1:4 would denote it is a quarter of the original's size.) Now, with some things, the difference between a 1:24 and a 1:25 wouldn't really matter. But in re-shelling, a millimeter is all the difference needed to make a transform malfunction or bind up. Keep in mind: the smaller the scond number, the larger the model. I would go with a 1:24 myself, Blu3_sTr3ak-30. As for model brand choice, that depends upon who you use. Revel, monogram and ertl have models with fairly heavy plastic, while tamiya is more about detail. (Generally, tamiya's models have better detailing than the american comanies.) But, tamiya's thinner plastic also presents breakage problems during construction. So, if yo plan on using Tamiya's models, just be a little more carefull during the 'bashing process. One pice of advice: when reshelling, test fit the parts CONSTANTLY during the process, especially when you're grinding down or cutting away the original's surface. This will avoid you removing too much or removing vital structural parts that hold parts together. Also, PLAN, PLAN, PLAN!!! Do drawings (however cruddy they may be [j/k] :lol) of what you want to do. And don't be afraid to make changes during the process; not everything goes according to plan. Well, that's all I can think of for now. If you need any more advice or help, just post here or shoot me a PM. Good luck with this one, Blu3_sTr3ak-30. I want to see pics!!! :thumb -WV
  15. Krylon paints are what I use for my projects, and they ROCK. they dry fast, can be recoated at any time, and are very durable. UPDATE ON MP PRIME's PINS: the pin runs from ONE side of the waist to the OTHER!!!! Put a small nail punch in one side, and tap it with a hammer. it should come out on the OTHER side of prime's waist. I came across this examining my MP prime. then just remove the pins in the side panels on his waist. BTW, TM Megatron: for lightsabers, There are several FAQ's on the net that explain how to put in your own electroluminescent lightsaber blades. the materials are fairly cheap, but you'll have to poke around a bit to find the FAQ. try the jedi council forums (google the name) to find their faq on it.
  16. are you keeping the alt part that you are working on secured, or are you holding it while you hold the iron? If you are holding it, try putting it down on a table or a hard work surfacce. That way, you can concentrate on keeping the end on the pin. As for the heating time, it's likely that you're not heating it enough. Try heating the pin for about 25 seconds, and then increasing the time in 5 second intervals, until you can safely remove the pin. In fact, you may want to test this out on a spare pinned part to get the feel for pin removal. As for that nick, don't worry. Prime has nicks all over him, and who's going to notice one more? :lol Seriously, it won't really matter. But truth be told, you might have to nip off part of the plastic surrounding the hinge (about 1/16 of an inch) and use a pair of needle-nose pliers to pull the pin out. It's not the best technique, mind you, but it may be the only option left. I previously recommended drilling, but now that I think of it, it may not be for the best after all. I'll have to take another look at my MP prime to see. -WV
  17. LoC, Huh? At that scale, all you would need is a piece of plastic from a CD jewelbox. Just heat it ( a propane torch or gas oven burner should soften it enough.), and form it to shape. A technique I use for aircraft canopies is the "heat and smash " method I learned off of starship modeler: first, make a mold of the part you need from wood., shaping it to take into account. Then, you heat a sheet of clear plastic in the oven at about 150 or so, for a couple of minutes, or until the plastic just begins to sag. then, using oven mitts, you "smash" or pull the plastic down over the mold, and let cool. Then just trim to shape and glue on/in. I don't know if this would work for your project, freedomgundam, but it works on larger projects. Just keep in mind that CD jewelbox cases are clear polystyrene, and crack easily. -WV
  18. 1) it depends upon the shape you are trying to cut out. for straight lines, i find that an xacto knife and a metal straight-edge are really all that's required. it's really more about technique than anything. just score the plastic deeply, then put it over the edge of a table, with the cut line directly on the edge, ans snap the edge of the plastic down. presto! a clean line. for other shapes, i reccommend a template. 2) i really don't know about any rendering programs for that. most of my planning is with good old paper and pencil. Kitbashers: anyone out there with an answer to this?
  19. 1) use krylon fusion to repaint it. 2) wash the car body and all parts to be painted in soap and warm water. let air dry, then follow the instructions on the can label. use light passes of the spray can, and 'build' the color, rather than trying to paint it all in one pass (remember, this isn't lawn furniture we're painting here! :D ) 3) let it dry COMPLETELY before touching it. most paint jobs are ruined by premature curiosity. hope this helps.
  20. Always happy to help, JOP. When you get to it, let me know how it goes.
  21. Wal-mart should have a moderately-priced soldering iron for you. as for the technique to remove them, here's a link for you: http://www.TFans.com/talk/index.php?showto...ndpost&p=319698 this should help you out.
  22. I understand; the textured end appears to be covered in a 'spikey' pattern that is slightly larger than the receiving pinhole, thus holding the entire assembly in place. Makes sense to me. ^_^ My curious thinking is that if you took a powerful enough electromagnet, you could attach it to the rough end of the pin, and use that force to hold the pin in place whilst one pulled the surrounding plastic off of it. So basically, instead of pushing the pin out, you'd be pulling it out. ^_^ Mind you, this is just idle theory and not something I can try out any time soon, not to mention the posibility that (a) no home-version electromagnet strong enough exists or (b) it does but the procedure would fail as the electromagnetic field would attract all other metal components. Like I said, idle theory. I think of whacky stuff like this. ^____^ As for the MP, I'm looking to find a heat iron small enough to heat the ends of the pins without touching up against the plastic itself; all suggestions welcome. ^_^ Bloody heck; considering the amount these things cost, one would rather hope that they wouldn't neccesitate such repairs simply because the joint got rotated a couple of times. ^_^ Again, kudos to you lot, you are great people. ^___^ <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah. good thinking, but there's not enough of the metal near the end for an electromagnet to get a good purchase on. Also, the spikes would tend to retain it in place. As for theories, that's how all kitbashing procedures and ideas start out! :thumb But yeah, for the price, I have an MP Convoy myself) you'd think they'd be a little sturdier than that. The one I have needed knee surgery! :lol And thanks for the compliment. We really try hard to help out here.
  23. That's what we're here for at the Idiot's Guide, JOP. I don't think of anyone as an idiot, and we all had to start out somewhere in this craft. Besides, Has/Tak doesn't exactly make our hobby easy on us, and we need all the help we can get. So if one of us has an idea on what to do, I think it's our duty to everyone else to share it with them. As for the magnet idea, I don't really think that will work. Rodimus is correct; the pins are knurled on the ends, and won't come out sans physical force or heating. I'm going to ask a couple of friends about this, so if i find out anything else, you'll be the first to know.
  24. okay, I got this one gang. :thumb The screws at the top are only for the ratchet sections of prime's ipper thighs. Don't touch those: I learned from experience that doing so is an excrutiating adventure in reassembling the near-impossible. (and a potential cause of suicide! ) To diassemble prime's waist is a task indeed. i don't think HasTak intended prime's waist unit to ever be DISassembled. But to do so, all you needto do is remove the pins located on the flaps of the sides of prime's waist. To do so, you need to drill a small hole where the pin is hidden behind on the front and rear flaps. (this is the best I can come up with, but if anyone's got a solution, then please, BY ALL MEANS SPEAK UP!!!) The holes shouldn't be too noticeable, hopefully. Once done, either drive out the pins with a small nail-punch, or use DLP's method of heating the pins carefully with a soldering iron, then extracting them carefully. Then it's a matter of unscrewing the screw at the rear of prime's waist, and exposing the internal mechanism. i strongly suspect that either the spring for the ratchet mechanism slipped off it's retainer, ot one of the "cam arms" for the ratchet either slipped or broke off. Either way, it should be a fiarly easy fix to accomplish, once the waist is taken apart. Then it's a simple matter of reassembling the waist, just keep in mind to not lose any of the pins, and to take your time in reassembling prime's waist. Good Luck JOP! I'm pulling for you on this one! :thumb -WV
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