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Everything posted by WraithVerge

  1. Yup, now I can continue posting here! :thumb
  2. Okay guys!!! Good news! BaCon got it fixed! I'M BACK!!!
  3. Hey MR, One thing I'm trying with your teletran-1 display panels is gluing them to sheet styrene instead of folding them like normal. Should be extra sturdy. Idea for the mods: could we pin this topic please? MR really put a LOT of work into this, and it looks really great!! :thumb
  4. I know the feeling; I have only enough time to concentrate on TFans, but I would like to branch out to other boards.
  5. cross posted in the painting thread.... Sorry Hunter; I thoght I had answered your question when you asked me in the shoutbox. My apologies man. I wasn't trying to ignore you.
  6. BTW, I will be trying to do these installments on a more frequent basis, so stay tuned! -WV
  7. Idiot's Guide To Kitbashing Special Topic- Sculpting/Creating Shapes and Structures: In kitbashing Transformers, the meat of getting the project done is to actually make/ modify the parts needed to complete the project in question. The specific terminology used for this is fabrication;essentially, to fabricate or make. In doing this, there are several methods I tend to use. Note: no one specific method is always superior to another; there are several methods one can use to construct parts, or even a combination of methods. The superior method is the one that works the best for the project, and the best for you. Generally, the four methods I use are: 1)RESIN/EPOXY OVERLAY: I take a piece of sprue, and proceed to coat it several times with a resin or epoxy material, allow it to cure, then repeat the process until i have enough material to work with. Then I use a rotary tool to grind and smooth the part to size and shape. This method works best when dealing with smaller parts that won't weigh much when done, or when a small piece like a joint needs considerable strength. The drawback is that you end up grinding quite a bit of material away, and that air bubbles can form in the resin/epoxy material. Also, the process is material-intensive, and can produce a lot of fumes. 2) LAMINATE CONSTRUCTION: In this method, I use plastic welder to glue together 3-4 sheets of ABS/styrene plastic, then clamp it with a C-clamp. After it cures overnight, I then use the rotary tool to cut and grind it down to shape. This results in a part that is larger than the resin/epoxy casted version, lighter due to less adhesive, and stronger due to the multiple layers. The drawbacks I find are that you have to make sure the layers are SECURELY clamped, or you get "voids", or spaces between the layers. Also, it's a royal pain to do, as the glue tends to run out between the layers if you use too much; if you use too little, the part will have no strength. You're also limited to plastic welder due to the fact that super glue is brittle, and will tend to "shear" when the rotational forces of the rotary tool are applied. As for model glue, it just makes one big gooey mess unless you use it EXACTINGLY. 3) HOLLOWFORM CONSTRUCTION: As the name implies, hollowform construction is just that: taking solid "walls" of plastic, and gluing them together to form the part. While you can construct larger, lighter shapes than the first two, structurally it's the weakest: the part relies SOLELY on the strength of the bonds at its' corners and edges, which is a lot less surface area for the adhesive to "grab" onto. This method is useful for making external shapes like large wings and, when properly reinforced, bodies and limbs. (this technique works pretty well when you overlay the hollow parts onto a frame, like bionicle.) Using pre-formed hollow shapes like square and round-tube styrene pieces also falls into this category. 4) SOLID CONSTRUCTION: This method utilizes solid pieces of plastic to manufacture the parts: smaller wings, tailfins, and when in larger block forms, heads, solid fists and other parts. Much like #1, you can create literally any shape you wish, the drawback to this method is that you end up wasting a considerable amount of material proportionate to the part being made. Also, in the case of plastics, the sanded plastic is considerably weaker than molded plastic due to the tendency of molded plastic to "case-harden" after being molded; that is, the plastic molded will have a harder outer shell, and a softer, malleable center. (This is why the first millimeter or two of grinding plastic with a rotary tool is always abatch. Because ground-down plastic lacks this outer "shell" in the ground-down area, it also lacks the resilliency that molded plastic has. Once the raw material is ready, I will usually use a combination of files, knives, sandpaper, drills, and my handy dremel tool to shape the parts in question; this entire part is the sculpting process, and it largely depends upon your ability to replicate the shapes in your head. The actual shaping process is trial-and-error; you tend to get the "feel' of it after a while. This is why you should start out with smaller projects, modifying parts and doing weapons and accesories, before getting onto the larger stuff like making limbs and such: it teaches you the finer points of detail, and it gets you ready for the larger stuff to come. All I can really say for this part is: WORK SLOWLY, and test-fit OFTEN It's better to remove too little, than to remove too much and ruin the whole piece that took you 3 days to make. Now, modifying parts is an offshoot of this process, and involves reshaping the part in question to fit your specifications. In truth, it's just really doing the same thing as fabrication: you either add or subtract the material needed, and then shape it to what you want. I give you the same advice here; WORK SLOWLY, and know what you want. Aside from that, It's all up to you. I hope the tips I gave here can guide you in making the parts that you neeed. BTW, the methods listed are by NO MEANS exhaustive: you may know of other techniques out there that I do not. These are just the methods I have come to trust in my time, and can serve you as well. If anyone has anything to add to this, please feel free to! I am always open to new ideas. So, as always, I wish all of you the best of luck in your projects, and I want to see them soon! Good luck, and keep 'bashing! Now, where did I leave my root beer float... *CRASH!!!* ...never mind... *drip, drip ,drip...*
  8. Sorry, my bad. :lol As far as supplies for KB'ing, yeah; They stink on ice. Usually, I open a window and turn on a fan for ventillation if I use a xylene or touluene-based puty. The fumes from those can lead to cumulative damage, over time. (I know from experience.) The rule of thumb here is this: if you can smell the fumes, then it's entering your body. So I emphasize caution here.
  9. Okay... Lately, I've been running into quite a few questions about where to get plastics and other kitbashing materials. I know as well as everyone else that getting these much-needed and often-scarce supplies can be a royal pain- in-the-azimuth. So, I've compiled a little list of "where to get what" (note: these are US locations; you may not have these available depending upon where you live) PLASTICS (sheet and shapes): US Plastics Corporation (google this name online) Hobbytown USA (online or local store) Wal-Mart (local store, thin plastic signs) Evergreen Plastics (also online) Plastruct Corp (online) Radio Shack (online and local stores, housings for electronic projects) Local Hobby shops Also try asking your local computer repair places if they throw away any old computer or printer cabinets. (these can provide you with a LOT of thick planks for scratchbuilding projects.) ADHESIVES (plastic welder, expoxy): Ocean State Job Lot Big Lots Wal-Mart K-Mart Ace Hardware True Value Hardware PAINT (Krylon): Sears Wal-Mart K-Mart PAINTS (acryllics) Wal-Mart Michaels (only on sale) HobbyTown USA Local Hobby Stores JoAnne's Fabrics and More WHERE NOT TO GO: Lowes Home Depot Michaels (they will rake you over the coals on prices for glues AND adhesives, not to mention they hire more than a few people who don't seem to know where things are!!!) [no offense to anyone who happens to work at one.] Target (don't go here for ANYTHING; their prices are high, and they have a VERY poor selection!) ANy hobby store where you ask them a question, "and they look at you like you have antenna sticking out of your head."(quoting kydd776) So, while this list is by no means exhaustive, it should provide at least some guide to those of you needing materiel. -WV
  10. Guessing you got into an argument with your girlfriend. :tfgrin I try to work on mine at night so that the kids, and my wife are all in bed, also no phone calls late at night. I don't have a girlfriend, or significant other. I just wanted to be funny.
  11. and now.... Five things you should NOT do while kitbashing a transformer! they are: 5) talk on the phone (even the headset types or bluetooth variety; it's a distraction, especially when you're working with a rotary tool.) 4) get into an argument with anyone (distraction) 3) Flirt with your girlfriend/boyfriend/other (more distractions) 2) Look out the window at some girls (or guys) going by. (ESPECIALLY if you're doing #2) 1) EAT. (greasy hands make for sloppy work, y'know.) But in all seriousness, concentration is vitally important in kitbashing, for both project quality AND personal safety. If you can't work on a project w/o distractions, then it's probably best to wait until another time. (And if the distraction in question argues that your hobby is stupid, then wait until THEY'RE doing their "hobby", and "gently" remind them of what they said earlier. If they say "this is different", then you know that the person is full of BS, and really needs to be put into a straightjacket. :tftongue )
  12. Okay... after a six-month hiatus (due to lack of internet capability), I'M BACK!!! And now....with my OWN COMPUTER!!! Also, in the next couple of months, I will be obtaining a digicam. I already have a scanner/printer/coffeemaker/combaticon, so I can now put more of my stuff online. (yes, I know all about the submission rules to TFans now...) But also, start looking forward to some new articles by me, as well as some-step-by step pics. As usual, I wish all of you the best of luck on your projects! -WV
  13. I don't know of any sites for pre-cast heads, but I'm sure there are lots of folks out there who have spare heads from other projects. So, there's bound to be someone out there with close to what you need. Also, some knockoff TFs might have the parts you need, but be carefull: some knockoffs are made of inferior plastic, and they may not be a 100% fit to your project. (I ran into this when I used a knock-off G1 Silverbolt to repair my original, and the parts didn't fit!) As for making your own, the difficulty largely depends upon the scale: larger heads are generally easier to do than smaller ones, due to the amount of fine details involved. if you're not sure of your skills, you may want to see if someone would consider helping you or even doing a head sculpt for you.
  14. I usually use scotch tape (frosted) for masking. If you can't use it (afraid it will pull up paint) try post-it notes. (believe me, THEY WORK!!!)
  15. Goo-gone or 91 percent rubbing alcohol will get them off, but with the alcohol, be carefull of paintwork underneath; it will remove paint in strong enough applications.
  16. amethysted, Don't worry about being a "basic" kitbasher; we all start out that way! :lol In all seriousness, for model plastics (styrene) you SHOULD NOT use paint thinner. It tends to make it brittle, and it eventually destroys it. For paint removal, I would start out with 91% Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (available at most pharmacies.) If that doesn't work, you can try paint thinner, but I suggest trying it on an inconspicuous area with a cotton swab first. The best method I've come across is spraying easy-off oven cleaner on , and leaving the project overnight, (READ THE CAUTIONS FIRST!!!) Then, simply rinse it off the next morning (note; DO NOT USE on soft or clear plastics!) I would use this one only if the first two don't work. Now, to repaint it, use Krylon spray paint. it dries a lot quicker, and has less fuss than most other spray-paints. Most folks here would recommend krylon fusion spray paint (specially formulated for plastics) but it takes a little more doing to use. At any rate, if you need any additional help or advice, PM me or any of the gang here at The idiot's guide. We'll be happy to help you out however we can! Godd luck on magnus! keep us posted! :thumb -WV
  17. AoiJunni, I was the one who said you could revive plastics with vaseline, but that only replaces the oils lost from the plastic and prevents it from cracking or breaking from age. The colors in ABS plastics are dyes used in the initial manufacturing process. Your friend could try using RIT dye to re-dye the plastic (I've heard quite a bit about that technique from other KBers here at TFans). If any of the KBer's here have info on that process, please post! :thumb As for un-yellowing plastic, I mistakenly said that you could use oxy pads to whiten yellowed plastics: in truth, that techniqe removes magic marker from plastics. (MY BAD!!! :lol) To be honest, I'm still researching that one myself. Perhaps bleach might work, but it may weaken plastics. I think your best bet would be the dyeing techniqe, but I can't promise or guarantee the results. Good luck to you and your friend on the legos! -WV
  18. Depending upon the body style and details, you may be able to modify the body of the alt to what you want. ) an alt swindle would be your best bet.) If that isn't possible, a complete reshell may be the only remedy. On a side note, I agree with FG: reshells are NOT for beginners, at least, not alone. If you decide to undertake this Koolbeans, take it SLOW and ask for help at every step. The close tolerances, body parts strength problems, along with structural integrity issues of parts after removing original body panels and transform conflict issues can complicate matters greatly. Now that I'm back, I'm planning on doing a section here specifically for reshells. It's been something that I've had to wrestle with on Hunter Rose's two projects that he entrusted to me (YES, they are STILL in progress! That's how hard it can get!!!), and I've learned quite a bit.
  19. Thanks FG. I wouldn't have guessed the glue issue on either alt prowl or mirage. :thumb
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