WraithVerge
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Posts posted by WraithVerge
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Been a while folks....
Through 3 moves across country, several projects later and a LOT of fussing in between, I've landed back here with a resounding "THUD"! I may be quietly in the background, but if anyone has any questions or comments, fel free to shoot them my way!
WV, IN!
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The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing: What is Next?
Well, all good things must coem to an end. Does that mean I am done kitbashing?
Not in the least!
But in the real world, with taking care of my dad as well as other responsibilities, I have had to cut back on both my time here and my projects. Also, I know there are FAQ's out there with far more advanced advice (and in many cases superior advice) that goes entire orders of magnitude beyond what I can offer). That siad, the info here shoudl be able to help folks on their way into kitbashing.
but as for myself, I am pretty much done with writing articles for the IGYKB. It's been a fun ride, and I hope folks continue to ask questions here. But since it's been more than 6 months since I posted in this, i realized i cannot offer what i used to.
I thank everyone here for reading my stuff (and putting up with my jokes! :lol: ), and i wish all of you the best.
See you around the boards!
WV out.
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Tramp is right: spray paint will NOT dry correctly on the type of plastic used for Wheeljack's windshield. The G1 toys used a softer type of polypropelyne/polyethelyne plastic for the windshields of the G1 series vehicle toys, and a harder plastic would crack and break (such as soundwave's clear cassette door). An acrylic such as tamiya's transparent blue works fine. just make sure the plastic windshield is clean. In fact, I would recommend using an airbrush 9if you have one) and spraying it from the inside in order to protect the paint job from scratches and rubbing.
The head: Aves poxy sculpt and styrene should be of tremendous benefit in this, in addition to the materials Tramp has already suggested. I knwo I am a little late on this one, but i would like to see pics when you can.
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UPDATE: a couple of months ago, my dad broke his hip when he fell. He had to have surgery, and I've been pretty busy taking care of things around the house and at the convalescent center where he currently is undergoing therapy.
As it is, I have not really been doing a whole lot of kitbashing, and I don't think there is much more I could post on it anyways; there are already a bunch of good sites out there by people with far greater skills and resources than I, and have written articles in better detail with pictures.
That being said, I will post when I can, but my work is not that much compared to the folks at some of the sites out there. Not that i have been able to post many pics, but I posted what i was able to at the time.
Thanks for reading. I'll be back when I can.
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I just purchased G1 metroplex from our friends at BBTS for 80 dollars. (rubber wheels). He's about 75 on their grading system, but no worries. For my grand return to kitbashing (had to take some time off to take care of a few family problems), I want to detail him out and add clear windows to the towers and other details to really make him stand out, bore out the barrels in some of the laser cannons, and just give him a good going-over. Maybe even give him some decent fists, knee joints and elbow joints. (We'll see) Hopefully, I can make him shine!.
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Sorry I haven't been posting folks; I've had some issues with the family that need my attention. I hope to be posting more frequently in the near future.
-WV
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not that i know of.
also, if that doesn't work, try this:
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409 should work as well
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soak the chrome in Tob Job. It should come off easilly.
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Thanks for the tip, Valandar! :thumb
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how strong do these magnets have to be?
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Okay, I hope i'm posting in the correct area...
I dropped a big glob of testors model glue on the hood of my Wildrider custom. How do you suggest I "repair" the damage. It appears to remove enamel paint very well as I can see the original red plastic color through the primer, first and second aluminum paint coatings. Do I use thinner and remove the entire area effected and re-airbrush? I want to make sure it does not look like I had to repaint this section. Just need some direction on where to start and with what I should prepare the affected area when I paint it. I am glad I hadn't applied the sealer paint to it yet....speaking of when do I add that? Before I start to cut the pieces or after they are done and it has been applied. I still have decals to apply and I know that you don't clear coat seal them until they are on and dry. Thanks for your help...
I'm thinking your best bet would be to sand the hood down smooth, and reapply the paints to get an even smooth coat like you had before your mishap.
First, buff the area with 0000 grade steel wool, and see if that evens out the area. If it does, then just repaint that section. If for some reason you can't, then you're going to have to repaint it. Use Polly S ESO (easy -lift-off) , sold at most hobby stores, or use easy off (carefull of the fumes!) to remove the paint. once doen, clean up the part with rubbing alcohol and repaint as norma.
Sorry to hear this happened, DJBomberman. BTW Rodimus RVT, good advice, just that sanding can remove details and change the shape of the hood.
-WV
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It could be "heat seamed', where they apply a small amount of heat to one edge, and then mate the two halves. But that would leave a tell-tale trim line around the seam where they had to remove flash.
My suggestion is to trace along the seam with an xacto knife until you get about 1/8 of an inch in, and the try using the knife to break the seam.
anyone else?
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I dunno; SP had a OHMYGAWD!!!I'M CONSTIPATED!!! look to me.
:lol
just my opinion
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Thanks for the tip, Aoijuuni ! :thumb
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oops. double post.
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The Idiot's Guide To Kitbashing Special Topic: Dioramas and Displays
After all the work you've put into your creation; the blood, sweat, tears (and of course, money!) it's finally ready to be displayed proudly. But where? On a shelf?
Maybe.
Your mantle?
Sure.
But what you REALLY want to do is depict your 'bot (or 'con) in the middle of action! Like, Prime at Teletran-1 (Mandingo Rex has an EXCELLENT display panel set for either Teletran-1, The Nemesis computer or the interior of the Ark at this link: http://forums.TFormers.com/talk/index.php?showtopic=91920 ), or a battle in the middle of an asteroid field, or even your transformer in alt mode racing along a street, or flying through space! The choices are endless, but to create some of these scenes, all you need are some basic materials:
1) STYROFOAM: Styrofoam, especially the kind that electronic equipment and toys are packed in, can serve as raw material for bombed out buildings, rocks/asteroids, boulders, and a plethora of other items. To create weathered/ destroyed buildings, all you need to do is to use a large piece of Styrofoam as the basis; remember to get a piece to scale with your transformer. (tv packing foam, the solid kind NOT pellets.) NOTE: Styrofoam breaks apart easily into small pieces and particles; lay down some newspaper first! Then, use an xacto knife to cut out where windows and doors would be, as well as to carve out "blast" holes and cracks.
Now, the next trick us to use a LIGHT layer of regular spray paint to partially "melt" the foam. (the xylene in the paint will do the trick, but be careful of the fumes!!!) This will make the marks look more "weathered", and give the piece a nice, beaten look. Afterwards, use acrylics in an airbrush (you can do it by hand) to paint up the piece. Remember to make the blast marks darker with brown/black paint. A touch of chalk pastels (ground-up, applied with a brush or cotton swab) and you're good to go! Asteroids and rocks can also be done this way, altering your methods slightly to produce an irregular, rocky surface rather than a flat, static wall.
2) CARDBOARD: Buildings, sidewalks and other urban settings, as well as inside dioramas can be made with cardboard. I trick I use is to lay a layer of masking tape on the surface to be painted, then seal it with matte finish. This gives you a flat, non-shiny surface to prime and then paint. (Be sure to tape the edges of the cardboard first, THEN lay the layer of tape on top of the flat surface, and MAKE SURE you burnish the tape down to avoid "dog-ears"!) These surfaces can be glues using Elmer's glue to a second piece of cardboard for added strength and stability. The masking tape can be used to assemble various piece's of the structure by applying a strip along the seam, and burnishing it down flat. Then all you do is seal, prime and paint! (not to mention the masking tape methods is a lot faster than trying to glue something.!)
3) MASKING TAPE/NEWSPAPER: As mentioned before, masking tape can be used in conjunction to make cardboard buildings. But in addition, I've used it to make mountainsides, landscapes with rocky crevasses, and even canyons! (small-scale, of course!) By using old newspaper along with it, you can make a "poor-man's paiper-mache' " by laying the crumpled newspaper down in the configuration you want, then laying thin strips of tape over to hold it in place. Then, using 2-inch masking tape, you begin to cover the surface until you've built it up enough. (use the cheap masking tape for this, or you'll go broke!!!)
4)SPACE/ AERIAL: This one is simple; for small scenes, I just use a black painted piece of poster board that i then take a paintbrush that has been dipped slightly in white paint and then wiped off, and i "flick" the brush in the direction of the cardboard. Tiny specs of white paint will go flying and hit the surface creating an irregular, random starfield. You can experiment with differing amounts of paint and the way you lick the paint at the cardboard to create more or less stars. For larger scenes, or for photographing larger models, I use an old, black bedsheet, but with the same technique for painting the stars. For scenes in the air, just look online and find a skyscene that suits you, and print it up. Then, get a piece of posterboard, and start painting! (for the non-artistic types, a poster of a skyscene will do.)
Now, concerning paiper mache' : I generally avoid it, as it gets pretty messy, takes a LONG time to dry, and is generally fragile to handle unless you make it REAL thick!!!
So hopefully, I've given you folks at least a few ideas on some of the things you can do with your kitbashes. As usual, this isn't the be-all-end all of diorama advice (it is 5 in the morning, you know!), so any tips or other advice, just post it here.
Now, if you'll excuse me, my bed awaits...
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
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will do, soon as we can. :thumb
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The Idiot's Guide To KitBashing: Special Topic- Transform Joints
In kitbashing transformers, the most inportant part of the process is devising the transform for the robot. Most of the time, this becomes a tedious process of tiral-and-error, one that most of us usually don't look forward to (often, we have to compromise and make sacrifices with the design just to get the blasted thing to work right!!!) But one thing that can lessen the pain in the butt process is understanding the different types of joints that are used in transformers.
Examples of joints and hinges:
Ball and socket (think hip and thigh)
hinge (like a door hinge, think G1 Prime's trailer halves)
hollow sliding ( a larger part with a smaller part hiden inside, that slides out either by lever or by pulling on the larger part. G1 Megatron's fists and arms.)
rotary (like an elbow joint; one disk inside two ther disks, like a terminator endoskeleton's shoulder or elbow)
folding (like MP Starscream's wing joint folding up from the back)
Cam( a part mounted on an arm or cam that rotates, G1 Starscream's head.)
While this list is by no means all-inclusive, it has a basic set of hinges and joints that are usually used. (feel free to post others here.) Now, when placing these joints, there's a few things you have to take into consideration. For example:
-Is there enough clearance from other parts for it to work smoothly?
-Will it interfere or conflict with another joint?
-Can it be worked into the design and contained in the vehicle mode?
- Can it be mounted securely, without breaking away from the mount or causing the part it's attached to to break?
-Does it "work " aesthetically? (in other words, does it make the robot look cool, or does it make him clunky or ungainly looking?)
-Is it durable enough to resist repeated transforming stresses? ( An IMPORTANT one to consider!)
-if it needs replacing, or you want to build another, how easy is it to obtain?
Be forewarned: using joints and hinges from KO's (Knock-offs) is usually not a good idea, due to the fact that most of these are manufactured from a cheap, oily plastic. If you do decide to use them check the strength of them first; you don't want to find the perfect hinge, only to discover upon first transformation that it just cracked in half, ruining an awesome paint-job. (THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME!!!) Generally, I stick to using KO's only for details I need, or when there are no other alternatives.
As far as attaching joints and hinges go, use the strongest glue you have (goes without saying, right?). I prefer Devcon Plastoic welder, as It has never failed to hold a hinge or joint wehn the surface that it is mounted on is properly prepared.
On that note, make sure that before you glue ANYTHING to a surface, that the area to accept the hinge or joint is 1) scraped clean of all paint; 2) clean of ALL mold release and skil oils (your fingers are enough to contaminate the area; wash your hands often during this part.); 3) that the area is sanded with 100-grit sandpaper. This will give the glue or epoxy "tooth" (roughened area to get a good hold onto), and the joint/hinge will stay on a lot better. (NOTE: make sure both the surface of the joint to be glued AND the surface to accept the joint are treated this way.) And most importantly, 4) MAKE SURE THE PARTS ARE ALIGNED PROPERLY!!! You don't want to glue a joint/ hinge and let it set, only to find out later that it doesn't align right!!
Finally, after gluing, test the joint/ hinge assembly for any weaknesses or looseness. You may need to reglue the joint, or apply more epoxy/glue surrounding the mating area of the joint to reinforce the bond.
That's about it for now. As usual, any comments, tips or question can be posted here, and either I or one of our staff (or other readers) will be happy to answer them! (tips always welcome, especially fives, tens and twenties!! :lol)
Good luck, and good modeling!! :thumb
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Yup, now I can continue posting here! :thumb
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SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT:
Due to a foul-up in my trying to register a new E-mail, my old account as "WraithVerge" is no longer usable by me. BaCon tried to fix it, but I still cannot access it.
What this has to do wit the Idiot's guide is that I am back under a Modified version of my old name, and that my post count is now ZERO. But I assure all of you that it is INDEED me, WV. I will still be writing for this topic, and I will still be giving out advice and tips like I have. I am hoping that this setback is only temporary, but even if it isn't, I will still be here.
Originally, I said if I had to use a new ID, I wouldn't return; but the friends I've made here, coupled with the fact that I've found my niche' in TFans dictates that I do otherwise. In short, I love doing what I do here, and when I look at it like that, 2000 posts don't mean as much as the friends and legacy I've made here. Those who know me will understand, and I hope everyone else will as well.
sincerely,
Robert.
Okay guys!!! Good news! BaCon got it fixed!
I'M BACK!!!
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Hey MR,
One thing I'm trying with your teletran-1 display panels is gluing them to sheet styrene instead of folding them like normal. Should be extra sturdy.
Idea for the mods: could we pin this topic please? MR really put a LOT of work into this, and it looks really great!! :thumb
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I know the feeling; I have only enough time to concentrate on TFans, but I would like to branch out to other boards.
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I meant i felt as if I was being ignored. Cause everyone is so quick to answer questions but... this will be post #3 of the same question with no response.....Dying -
Is this the proper thread to ask about dying plastics, and of course Transformers specifically?
I want to dye a TFA Jazz RED! - but just the car parts.
Dying would create the same matte kind of look that the TFA figs have in general right?
I think i read somewhere that plain RIT clothing dye works well - any suggestions here?
Is there another thread about it?
cross posted in the painting thread....
Sorry Hunter; I thoght I had answered your question when you asked me in the shoutbox. My apologies man. I wasn't trying to ignore you.
THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing
in Upgrades
Posted
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing Special Topic: CHROME
It's been a while folks, but "poppa's bag with a BRAND NEW BAG!!!"
Okay, let's get this ball rolling, eh?!
Now, those of us who love Transformers know that (especially on some MP as well as many G1 Transformers) chrome is a major part of many transformers. We all love that metallic look that chrome gives, but sometimes stuff happens. A piece we've had for years will slowly have it rub off, while on others it may crack, peel or flake. And yet still, we may seek to put chrome as a finishing touch on our 'bashes.
In any case, when we decide to do so, we run across the fact that chroming can be a royal pain! So, how do we handle this issue?
First off, let me list the various means of "chroming" along with the pro's and 'cons (punintended! ) :)
Professional Chroming:
This is essentially having the piece sent out to be chromed by a company, who immerses it in a tank of chemicals along with the metal needed to chrome it. From my info, plastic parts canot undergo this, but require "vacuum metalizing", which is putting the piece in a vacuum chamber while heated, vaporized metal (aluminum) is deposited onto the piece.
PRO: Professional finish, looks awesome
CON: Cost ( it can get expensive, especially when you only have a few small pieces), you have to make sure the parts are FLAWLESS or it will show; shipping the part to and back from there or transporting it yourself if local. Also, you have to wait for the place to get to it on their docket of orders to fill.
Paint:
A number of companies make "chrome paint" out there, all with differing properties and applications. AlClad, Testors (Metalizer), Tamiya, SNJ Spray Metal and Alsa Corp. (Killer Chrome) all make various ways to apply a "chrome-like surface" to a piece.
Pro: (Usually) cheaper than having it professionally done, no shipping involved for the piece. Faster, as you don't have to wait on the chroming place to do it.
Con: Not as durable as real chrome; also, many products listed as "chrome-like" don't always deliver on their promises and it looks more like silver paint than chrome. Some, like Metalizer, can come right off without a protectant, which can dull the sheen and ruin the effect. Fumes can also be an issue, and sometimes the paint may not adhere well to the plastic, even after dilligent cleaning and sanding. Finally, as mentioned before, not all paints are cost-effective: the "Killer Chrome" method can easily run a big chunk of cash! Then there's the usual issue with handling the part without getting thumb/finger prints in the fresh paint.
Note: some systems like Alsa's "killer Chrome" say they are not paint, but a metal deposit system. For the purposes of this tutorial though, since it is in a spray that the consumer uses, I'm treating it as paint.
Foil:
Different companies make foils that can be applied (such as Bare Metal Foil) that can replicate almost perfectly the chrome or metallic effect you're loking for. Adhesive-backed, they can be applied to the surface and burnished down.
Pro: Easy (usually) to apply to flat surfaces; no drying time required. No worries about fingerprints in freshly-applied chrome. CUstom shapes can be cut flat then applied.
Con: Complex shapes (recessed areas, intricate detail and rounded shapes) can be difficult or almost impossible to chrome. Also, any imperfections underneath may show through the foil. The foil also is not as durable as real chrome, as it can scratch, tear and sometimes even come off. Appliaction in tight areas can tear the foil or result in wrinkles that ruin the effect. Also, application of the foil can be time-consuming. Finally, Intricate details can become "lost" undet the foil.
Now, there is not going to be one single method to handle thisissue, but I believe the last two are the most practical in given situations. I myself prefer Krylon's Spray Chrome and/ or Metalizer Aluminum Plate. The latter especially can buff to a nice, chrome-like effect. One thing I have found is that after buffing, if you apply Krylon Crystal-kote and them buff it again with a dremel tool's cotton wheen (soft ) at LOW speed (anything more than one click is a disaster waiting to happen) can produce a chrome effect that is considerably more durable. I'll demonstrate this in a later post (possibly VIDEO).
My newest trick, which I just used on G1 Prime's smokestacks, is using the very reflective side of aluminum foil, contact cement, and an Xacto Knife.
Step 1: Clean and sand the piece you plan on chroming. if it has chrome on it that is damaged, ALL of it needs to come off.
2) using mineral spirits as thinner and CONTACT cement, paint the piece with a thin, even layer of cement and LET DRY. if it's still wet, it isn't ready!
3) For Prime's pipes, I used 4 pieces of pre-cut foil. 1 rectangular piece for the upper pipe, one for the lower, a strip for the intermediate bevel between pipes, and a square for the bottom. I applied the first to the upper pipe, then to the lower, then the bottom square, then the intermediat strip. I then took and burnished it down with the knife handle, taking care to press with my fingers to reveal the divots in the lower pipe. I took a small screwdriver and pressed the divots deeper as to bring out the detail. then, i cut the foil at the top of the pipe and burnished the small excess down, even getting it into the hole I had drilled in the top of the pipe! Finally, after trimming the excess, i burnished the stack overall to create the chrome effect.
Yeah, the foil has some imperfections (tears and whatnot) here and there. But with how badly Prime's stack's were (almost bare of all chrome), this is a major improvement.
You can also redo your transformer's stickers (foil ones) by printing the sticker onto clear decal film, then applying that to a piece of aluminum foil. After using Micro-SOl on it and allowing it to dry, simply clear-coat it and use contact cement to apply it to your figure (or whatever glue you find works).
The way I apply foil to recessed areas is to apply it from the center outwards, pressing it down from the center of the area and working to the ehges. The, I use a burnishing tool (steel rod or other item) to smooth and burnish it down into recesses and crevassed. if you experiment with it and develop yout technique, you can get some pretty impressive results.
Well, that's if for this installment of "The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing." As always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to ask them here and I'll do my best to answetr them.
-WV