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Rawhide

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Posts posted by Rawhide

  1. I think most of the answers to those questions can be found by simpling reading through all 18 pages of this guide.

     

    But nevertheless, to answer your questions:

     

    1. Wraithverge, who started this guide, is a strong supporter of Plastic welder. You might want to try that. (I can't get that where I live so I use crazy glue which also works very good, although I did have to experiment with several types to find the one that worked best for me.)

     

    2. As answered by both Rodimus VTS & Tramp: at a modelkit store you should be able to get styrene (model kit plastic) in various shapes and sizes. Although not as strong as the plastic that's used to make TF's, it strong enough for most kitbashing needs and has the advantage of being readily available (as said, in different shapes) and being easy to work with. Should this be to weak for you, you should try to find a store that sells ABS plastic...or you can cannabilize CD jewel boxes.

     

    3. Since you live in the US, you have access to Krylon Fusion. (For that, I envy you :P) Krylon is apparently already highly regarded, but Fusion has the advantage of having been developed especially for harder plastics. The paint slightly dissolves the top layer of the plastic causing the paint to 'fuse' into the plastic. This gives a very strong bond and with KF being very resistant to wear you don't even need a protective coat. (Of course, the downside is that the stuff is rather toxic and the the instructions have to be followed pretty precisely.) Should you decide to use another brand/type of paint, here are some other options: polycarbonate paint, car paint or modelkit paint. Especially with the latter, the question raises itself whether to go for enamel or for acryllic. There are very good reasons for either choice. (You also have to choose to either handbrush, airbrush or use a spraycan.) Oh, yeah, there is *no* best paint. Everybody has it's preference and everyone has very good reasons for this preference.

     

    4. Well, with Krylon Fusion you don't need a coat/sealer/whatever. With other paints you often do. Simple answer: experiment. I would argue against using modelkit coats. So far, I've had only bad experiences with this. (Personally, I went to a local paint store and simply asked. Several types of coat can be bought both in spray can as in handbrush.)

     

    5. I prefer glue. If you can get the plastic welder then use that. Else use the glue you found worked best. Personally, I've tried nail polish and found the result severly wanting.

     

     

    Hope this helps somewhat.

     

    Do post pics of your project :thumb

  2. Does anyone know how to remove the windshield from and Alternators Camshaft/Prowl? I have the center console with the hand brake and shift knob removed as well as the seats and the hood, however, try as I may, I cannot seem to dislodge the windshield (and the piece it is connected to) from the floorboard piece. They seem like they are two separate pieces (are they?). I do not need to remove the windshield from the dashboard piece for what I'm doing, however, if that is the only way to separate the parts, please also tell me how to remove the pins (I have read the pin removal guides, but am VERY unclear as how to remove these specific pins).

     

    With this part I would really say, if you can do what you want to do without removal, then do so. Nevertheless, the part can be removed.

     

    The windshield is connected to the main body with two pins. They go in from the side (beneath the doors) and stop inside the plastic. This means you can't hammer them out nor can you heat the pin and push it out. This means you have to use alternatives.

     

    TFM ones told me that if you carefully heat the pin with a soldering iron without pushing on it, the pin should ever so slightly come out (something to with the expansion of the warmed up air behind the pin and the warming of the plastic). As soon as this happens remove the pin with pliers. I have never done this and somehow I doubt its success.

     

    You can also determine to where the pin runs and drill a small hole behind it: this should be on the shoulders next to the head. Then heat the pin and use a nailpunch through this drilled hole to push the pin out. This will leave you with a small visible hole, but if you repaint these parts then you could also use some putty to fill it up.

     

    And then recently I read that STPrime had used a different method. He had made the hole around the pin a little wider so he could pull the pin out with pliers. (Maybe you could contact him for more information.)

     

     

     

    Then also, what is a good way to remove acrylic paint from a clear plastic without destroying the clarity of the plastic? (I have read through this entire topic and seem to remember that there is a way, but I did that a while ago and have completely forgotten it--and I'm too lazy now to look, since I'm already asking another question).

     

    There are several methods of removing paint, but I honestly can't recall if any was specific for clear parts.

     

    I think using a (acrylic) thinner would be your best best. Gently rubbing it one in low quantities with a soft cloth should slowly remove the paint. Should any damage occur to the plastic you can use toothpaste to make it transparant again. But be careful and watch out for spill.

     

     

    Hope this helps.

  3. Sorry Tramp, but you're still jumping to conclusions.

     

    I highly doubt that Hasbro uses epoxy paints, and not because of the expense. Epoxy based paints are predominantly used on metal, not plastics, and the finish is very different than either acrylics or enamels.

    From the BT interview

    For the coating, we use epoxy-type paint, often used for die-cast miniature cars.

    True, this is for BT's that are part die-cast. But compare alts & BT's like Grimlock and Silverstreak. It looks like exactly the same kind of paint. Also, it wasn't just the die-cast taht is/was painted with BT's: the entire figure was painted.

     

    For one thing, epoxies are much harder; not just more durable, but physically harder and more rigid.

    Exactly. And as we all know, the paint on TF's is much harder then what we can apply.

     

    there is a clear difference between the epoxy paint and acrylics or enamels

    Again, I agree. There is a clear difference. Just as there's a clear difference between the enamel and acrylic paints (available to us) and the paint on a TF.

     

    As has been evidenced even among us kitbashers, who have stripped paint from these models, the methods used are the same as used to strip acrylic paints.

    Those exact same methods also work on enamel paint. Actually, they were developed for enamel paint and only when acrylics were developed did it became clear those also work on them.

     

    Now, the actual formulas and quality of poaints used may be better quality and more durable than we can get at our local hobby store, but they are acrylic based paints.

    Jumping to conclusions again. You offer no proof of the kind of paint used: only arguments (and only half-baked ones). If hastak are using (acrylic/enamel) paint with different formulas and better quality then we as kitbasher can get, then it’s also very well possible that an enamel based paint will work on those flexible parts.

     

     

    All in all, as I said before, you're jumping to conclusions that suit your personal preference. The information you have supplied does not warrant any conclusion on what kind of paint HasTak is using. It only makes clear they use the same kind of paint on both types of plastics. And, agreed, with the paint available to us kitbashers, that could be considered as an argument for the possibility that they're using acrylics. But its not proof or anything. All we've got right now is:

    - the same kind of paint is used on the soft and the hard plastic (and with the paint available to regular customers enamels don't cure very well on soft plastic)

    - on the BT they used epoxy based paint.

    - paint on TF's (and all toys) is harder then paint available to the regular customer.

     

    From these few facts we can draw many conclusions, but none of those are absolute because the foundation for those conclusions is just too limited.

     

    (I also remember that a few years ago there was some problems with toys for younger children containing lead based paint...doesn't exactly sound like acrylic to me).

     

     

    Furthermore, as you suggested yourself, if HasTak is indeed using either acrylics or enamels, it's most likely that they're using some high quality stuff with a different formula. Something we can't obtain or is too expensive. This doesn't automatically mean that the same kind of paint (acrylic/enamel) of a lower quality is the best paint to use by us kitbashers. TF's are made of hard plastic yet very few of us use hard plastics to scratchbuild or modify: we mostly use styrene because it's more readily available, cheaper and better workable.

     

    I won't be surprised if HasTak is indeed using a type of high quality acrylic paint. After all, enamel paint is highly poisonous if you're exposed to them on a daily bases and especially if they're airbrushed on. (This is also the main reason why acrylics were developed.) It seems highly likely to me, that to comply with safety/health regulation the factory where TF's are painted uses acrylic based paints. However, this is still just arguments to create a thesis. There's currently no proof.

     

    And that's my whole issue with your post. You're jumping to conclusions based on scarse information that can be interpreted in many ways.

     

     

     

    Now, if you want to argue why we should use only enamels or only acrylics, I can give you several arguments and even several facts why one should go for either paint.

     

    As I stated before, with the current information, there is no absolute best paint to use. Everyone has their preferences and everyone has good reasons to choose what they do.

     

    As soon as you have absolute facts about the type of paint HasTak uses, please post this because I would like to know. Same as with the enamel-acrylic argument: as soon as you have testable proof about which is better, please post this because it's information we all could use. As long as you don't have facts or undisputable proof, please stop pushing your convictions on others. (Always make it "...IMO", or "I have been told that...but I can't proof it's correct".)

  4. Interesting information, but I don't see the relevance.

     

    I also have got to say that your conclusion is completely unfounded. There are more types of paint on this planet then acrylic and enamel. So you're really jumping to a conclusion here (a conclusion which completely suits your preference).

     

    Actually, I know your conclusion is wrong based on previous information coming (indirectly) from Takara. Some time ago there was a transcription of the interview with the BT designers on-line (should still be over at TFormers). If I remember correctly, it was stated that the paint used for BT's was epoxy based.

     

    Which makes sense, since epoxy based paints are much stronger then either enamels or acrylics. It also has a different finish. And just looking on the paint on figures I can tell it's neither acrylic or enamel paint. The paint looks completely different and also is much stronger then the paint we can apply as kitbashers. Also, as you may remember from a topic over at transtopia, there are actually paints that adhere to soft/rubbery plastic quite well (yeah, I forgot which one since I can't get it anyway) and that was also neither acrylic or enamel paint.

     

     

    So, sorry, no cigar for you :P

     

    (PS. I do agree that for softer parts acrylics are the only solution readily available to most of us. Alternatives are just too expensive.)

  5. ^ pin...that's right. Also thought it was a screw.

     

    In that case: do what RodVTS said, plus a little extra. You'll have to do a little search here (or at transtopia, but I think it was here :schin )

     

    Simply heating the pin and then removing it, will be a hell of a job. There was discussion here (or again, at transtopia) about removing the door pins from Meister. Someone, completely forgot who, suggested using a dremel to make little notches on the side of the pin. After heating the pin, these notches will give plyers (?) a better grip, making it easier to remove the pin.

     

    Do the search for a better description (than my lame I-really-should-go-to-bed-cos-I'm-effing-tired-English) and some pics. :thumb

  6. That is a great guide! Been looking over it quite a while now before I tried my repaint and there are tons of useful stuff in there.

     

    How did you finally manage to stop the cracking paint? Did you actually have to wait a week before the recoat? Thanks again for the input, Rawhide!

     

    Well, basically, I got very frustrated and annoyed because I had hoped to really getsome work done and the paint started cracking on me.

     

    At the time I couldn't quite remember what WV had written, looked it up and discovered that nothing really applied to my problem. I went to the local model kit store (I used Revell/Humbrol model kit paint) and they told me that my problem was probably that the paint was stored to close to the radiator: which causes some changes is in the paint which makes it unsuitable to use through an airbrush).

     

    I bought new paint (which I since then have stored out of direct sunlight and no-where near a source of heat), sanded the whole thing down anew, and redid everything (including the washing of the parts and the masking). Haven't had the problem since. No cracking of paint what-so-ever, even though I'm using the same kind of primer & paint on the same parts.

     

    That, for me, was really the problem. My attic isn't to warm around Christmas. Had to really have the radiator pump heat into the attic which resulted in exposing the paint to too high a temperature after which I couldn't spray it anymore (brushing still worked)

     

     

    But before you go through the frustration of sanding and repainting, please make sure it's really necessary.

  7. Cracking paint is a nuisance. Had to endure it myself and all I could do to help it was sand it down and repaint.

     

    It can have several different causes: different types of paint that don't work together, wrong temperature, plastic problems, humidity, etc.... Wraithverge discusses this somewhere on the first few pages of this guide. Suggest you look it up :thumb

  8. What`s weird is that the clear coat did nothing to the lights but it frosted the windsheild. They both look like the exact same plastic but for some reason it affected the one and not the other.

     

    I'm not so sure it's the plastic.  Let me guess, it's not the entire windshield that (evenly) frosted, but irregular parts with clear (small) patches in between? If so, then if the lights had been larger, they'd probably be frosted as well.

     

    I've also had frosted effects when coating (model kits, not TF's) and that wasn't on clear parts. It has to do with the humidity/temperature while coating. If these aren't right, then the coat can give that frosted effect (Wraithverge mentions this as well somewhere on the first few pages).

     

     

    BowB4Prime: I knew pencil eraser worked on permanent markers (on a smooth surface, usually best when they're a little moist) but I hadn't thought off using it on a TF. Thanks :thumb  Hopefully I'll never have to, but if the need arises I will give it a try.

  9. Hey guys I screwed up. I didn`t think that clear coating my kitbash with nothing covering the windsheild would hurt anything so now I need to remove the clear coat since it has frosted the windsheild. Would rubbing alcohol work on this with out messing up the clear plastic or am I pretty much screwed and needing to replace the windshield.

     

     

    Clear parts should always be masked, unless you want to paint them, of course.

     

    I think rubbing alcohol should work fine (just like the other chemicals to remove paint). However, be careful. Clear plastic is weaker than solid plastics, meaning they are more vulnerable and will deteriorate quicker. Also, the plastic will probably become a bit dull. So, yeah, toothpaste will be essential to make it truly clear again.

  10. Okay, since I don’t feel really capable of answering your question, I was waiting for one of the others to come forward. But apparently not.

     

    I’ve never worked with Krylon fusion myself (can’t get it over here), so all I can tell you is what I’ve heard from others. I know Wraithverge (I think somewhere in the IGTKB) has stated that, "even if it’s not fusion, krylon still is one of the best paint brands around".

     

    I’m also aware of a topic lobo created over at Transtopia dealing with the similar problem. He tested three kinds of paint: Krylon fusion, enamel and Polycarbonate paint. Results can be seen here

     

    Hope that helps :thumb

  11. A little "fix 'm up"-er for BT*-1 alert

     

    I’ve posted this already elsewhere (in TF:TD) and over at Transtopia, but apparently there are still those who haven’t read that or figured it out themselves.

     

    Due to overuse of the mold and slacking QC, Takara’s BT*-1 alert has some issues. One of these is with the connection between the upper and lower body. There remains a little gap between these body parts and it looks like the little connecting tabs don’t fit. But that’s not the problem. The problem is located near the hinge at the back of the robot that connects the upper and lower body parts. At the base of this hinge, he suffers a bit from plastic bleed (the part in the green box on the pic).

     

    alert_mod.jpg

     

    Now, this is a problem that’s very easily solved. Take a sharp knife and gently and carefully trim this down a bit. It needs only a little trimming and before you know it, alert’s upper and lower body connect perfectly.

     

    Now we just have to find some solutions for the rest of his problems :D

     

     

    (P.S. Before anyone asks, yes that’s Meister’s head on an alert body. However, the head doesn’t fit without some serious sanding and modding.)

  12. You could try Vivak. It's a co-polyester that can be thermo shaped and is very strong (probably stronger than ABS plastic). It can be bought in both transparant and solid version. Downside is that it reject chemicals (like paint and glue), so you'll have to do some experimenting which paint and glue works.

     

    There's some information on the website of the european supplier: right here

  13. To my surprise another shipment arrived yesterday: two large boxes in one week (hadn't expected the second one for another two weeks).

     

    Universe:

    - Long Horn

    - Frostbite

     

    Alternator: Battle Ravage (2x)

     

    20th anni Prime (a second one, for kitbash purpose)

     

    Star Wars:

    - Obi-wan's lightsabre (toy, not official replica)

    - Unleashed: Obi-wan, Anakin, Grievous

     

    (Have to open them slowly one every few days, because it will be a long time before I get anything new again -- at least eight weeks.)

  14. Saturday I got from e-bay G1 Thunderclash (incomplete, but only 6 euro = less than $ 10)

     

     

    And received in the mail yesterday:

     

    RiD:

    - spychanger Ironhide (clear)

     

    Armada:

    - supercon Prime (my third; bought for kitbashing)

     

    Energon:

    - Strongarm (repaint)

    - Off Shoot (the repaint)

    - Grimlock and Swoop

     

    Alternators:

    - Swindle (2x, makes now a total of three)

    - Windcharger (2x)

    - Shockblast

    - Grimlock

    - Meister (is my third, also for kitbashing/repaint)

  15. This goes out to anyone...

     

    Other than the heating technique, do you know of anyother way to remove the wheels from alts?

     

    Thanks alot

     

    STPrime

    If you don't have access to a soldering iron you'll have to go with what WV said. However, as he pointed out, this can be hazerdous to the toy (and yourself).

     

    Although I have never tried it myself, I have read people making it easier to remove pins and the like by putting the TF in warm water (not too warm, cos it'll warp the plastic). This can make it slightly easier to remove the pins using the methods described by WV.

     

     

    (Let's just say there's a very good reason everyone is happy with the soldering iron technique :D)

  16. Hey WV.

     

    I want to make a huge friggin' gun for my Brave Maximus which is bigger and more befitting a TF of his size than the official gun. Haven't yet made a real design, but I'm probably starting with my first sketches this weekend.

     

    After reading about your 'discomfort' with Styrene I started to check what other materials I could get my hands on. A local model-kit store has sheets of Polystyrol. Is that any good (or is it just another name for Polystyrene)?

     

    Only problem I have is that the handle of the gun should be around 9 mm (millimeter) thick, but the thickest I could find is 5 mm. Is it possible to glue two or three layers together and sand it down to get the handle to the appropriate thickness? Will that be strong enough? It is after all the part which will undergo the most stess.

     

    Thanks.

  17. BTW, thanks rawhide! This helps out the rest of TFans, and helps me because i didn't have this stored on disk!

    No problem. Had it fortunately still on the computer at work so it was very easy to post it.

     

    Was glad to help, because I missed the idiots guide. Look forward to future tips.

  18. And some other tips I downloaded from this site and elsewhere (by various)

     

     

    ** Removing paint.

     

    It depends on the type of paint, and if the part is plastic or die-cast:

     

    -- If it's plastic (unless it's clear plastic), i'd use regular paint thinner. DON"T use paint thinner or oven cleaner on clear plastic- it's suicide.

    -- For die cast, either try paint thinner or easy-off oven cleaner.

    -- In the case of clear plastic, try 90% rubbing alcohol.

     

    Hope this helps!

    -J/K.

     

     

    ** Paint his eyes chrome silver, then over- paint that with a mix of Tamiya turn-signal yellow and stoplight red (both transparent color, if you can't find them, just use transparent yellow and red mixed). This will give you a set of eyes that catch all sorts of light for that "evil as all hell" look!

     

     

    ** Those heat-stamped Autobot symbols we saw during Robots in Disguise, are they removable, and if so, how? I once read -- I believe on bwtf -- that they could easily be rubbed off with hoth water, but I tried and failed.

     

    Try rubbing alcohol; I would use 90% grade. It should take it off, as long as you don't get it on any other painted areas that you want to save. In the event that fails, use Oxy pads.

     

     

    ** MP Trailer

     

    By the way, Junkers; for a box for the trailer, go to your nearest Home Depot and look in the Hardware section. They have a black plastic storage unit for little parts and screws that if you bought a pair, removed the little sliding drawers and cut them down a bit, would make an awesome box for the trailer. (it's already in two parts, so your only problem would be finding a floorplate , and hinging it to the halves.) Use the underside "tackle"(wheels and suspension) from a 1/24 scale toy tractor trailer, and you're good to go! By the way, for customizations, I use a two part adhesive called Plastic Bonder. It's sold at Wal-mart, in the Hardware section for $2.50. It's a lot stronger than epoxy, and far less brittle. it's practically liquid plastic! And the best part is, it cures in 15 minutes, although it gets a bit hot. I do a lot of custom work myself (hope to post photos soon!), and I learned these lessons the hard way. Hope I've been of some help yuo you and everyone else. Any questions about customizations, give me a yell; I'll see if I can help

     

     

    ** Loose joints:

     

    Just coat with a thin layer of Devcon plastic Welder, then sand smooth when it dries and presto!

    (alternative: Nail polish)

     

     

    ** Possible alternative to painting:

     

    Most of the parts that are black are not painted but dipped in die so that the plastic actually absorbs the color.....all of the plastic parts that have been died are now jet black with a perfect finish so it looks like the plastic is actually Black!!! This is not the same as painting it as the color does not come off and it looks dead-on like the original!!

     

     

    ** More metallic look?

     

    Here's what I recommend...take off the clear parts, and tape off the back window...Gloss spray the car parts, but NOT the robot parts...let it dry for an hour or two in room temperature before you touch them....I recommend using Krylon Fusion Crysal Clear gloss coat.

     

     

    ** And a little more info (not yet ordered)

     

    1) wash the plastic with a mild detergent before painting it. This removes the mold release agent from it. (mold release is an oily substance they shoot into the molds for the toy before molding, so the plastic will come out of the mold easily.) but the oil interferes with paint, and can cause an awesome paint job to crack.

     

    2) scuff-sand any metal parts, and coat with either grey or white primer. (unless you plan on using Krylon "Fusion" paint).

     

    3) to remove the bar for the mouthpiece, work the left ear loose, while holding the right ear.

     

    4) If you plan on diassembling prime, keep the screws in a plastic cup. (screws are notorious for getting lost)

     

    5) for armor, contact a local plastic supply house for polystyrene (the same plastic most model kits are made out of)

     

     

    for more info on kitbashing and modelbuilding in general go to:

     

    http//www.starshipmodeler.com

     

     

    ** Repairing damaged windows

     

    Toothpaste.

     

    Seriously, it's an old modeler’s trick: toothpaste contains a fine abrasive, which acts to polish the stains off of your teeth. You see, glass/transparent plastic is only clear because the surface allows light to pass through it. it's called the refractive index. When something is scratched, it increases the refractive index for that section of glass or plastic. By polishing it out, the R. I. is reduced. In other words, the toothpaste polished out the scratch. Try it: all that will happen if it doesn't work is that your transformer will smell minty! Keep in mind: polish as hard as you can w/o stressing the plastic too

  19. and part 3

     

    Okay, time for yet another riveting installment!

     

    Today's subject: Plastic Welder, and its many uses.

     

    Now, the reason I so widely recommend Devcon plastic welder is that unlike epoxy, it doesn't get as brittle: it is virtually liquid plastic. It also has incredible holding power, and if used correctly, can be built-up into virtually any shape that you want. The last one is a little tricky, as the stuff is a gel-like mass when first mixed. The trick is to apply it to plastic model sprue or another "base" surface that will serve as the 'core' of the piece you are trying to make. ( A word of warning: although it doesn't really matter on small parts, plastic welder can become very hot during the curing process, especially on large applications. Your best bet in any event is to apply it in several layers, rather than in one huge glob.)

     

    Although you can't really use it to cast parts, like you can resin, plastic welder is incredibly strong. It's best uses are when you need to fasten high -strength parts like legs, arms, torsos and so forth. It truly shines when you have to fasten transform joints in areas that don't have a lot of attachment surface, and makes for bonds that can only be broken by a sledgehammer (well, not LITERALLY, but you get the point!) I have even used it to fashion my own joints from scratch, although it takes a lot of practice, not to mention trial and error.

     

    A particular trick I use when utilizing the stuff is to make a "dam" of masking tape for the area you want to work on, then apply the plastic welder and let it cure in several layers. Then when the bonder is cured, remove the tape, and presto! A little sanding, and you're good to go!

     

    On that note, a little advice: Plastic welder sets in 5 minutes and cures in 15 ( it's speed is another boon.) But it reaches full strength in 24 hours. Keep this in mind for two reasons:

     

    1) any pieces requiring high-strength will require the full cure time, and:

    2) The material is easier to sand , cut and otherwise work before it fully cures, preferably within the first 10 to 15 minutes of it's initial curing.

     

     

    Well, That's all for now. I'll be back soon to share more with everyone! Keep coming back, and if you have a great idea or need some advice, just post here and I'll read it! Keep up the kit-bashing everyone!

     

    EDIT: I know that I give out a lot of advice on this topic, and many of you TFans out there are wondering "yeah, well if he's so good, why doesn't he post some pics?" I'm hoping to have some pictures of my work to share with all of you soon. (that is, as soon as my friend decides to finally lend me his digital camera!)

  20. Part 2

     

     

    Okay, I'm back for more! Before I continue on any further, I want to elaborate a little further on planning transforms for your projects, as I really didn't go into it in depth the last time:

     

    First off, there’s nothing wrong with taking part of another transformer’ s transform, so long as: 1) it works, and 2) you give credit where it's due (for example, my character JackKnife's transform is taken from Super Go bot Spay-C, with some refinements from myself!). Other than that, it's how creative you want to be, and if it would be more structurally stable to cannibalize a transform from another character rather than scratchbuild your own, then you owe it to yourself to make sure that your creation stands the test of time.

     

    Secondly, for those of you who want to build your character's transform from scratch, a word of warning: DO NOT USE STYRENE for joints and support members!!!! Use ABS plastic instead! The reason for this is that styrene ( the plastic used in plastic models) cannot withstand the repeated stresses of transformation. Eventually, it will break and fall apart ( I learned this the hard way on JackKnife!). ABS plastic is the hard plastic most commonly used for stereo boombox cabinets, refrigerator shelf retainers (those strips of plastic that keep the mustard and relish on the door!), and a whole bunch of other places. It's okay to use styrene model parts for the actual vehicle parts, like doors, cockpits, engine details, and so forth. But trust me, use ABS for joints and structural members. Your Transformer will thank you!!

     

    On to Detail Painting: I use apple barrel acrylic colors, available at Wal-Mart, Michaels, and other craft stores. these paints are really cheap in price (.89 cents a bottle), and they thin with alcohol or water. But a word of advice: coat them with Krylon Crystal Cote, or they'll scratch off! For more durable paints, use testors acrylic colors. These are more expensive (2.50- 3.00 a bottle) but they come pre-mixed in a wide array of ready-to-use colors. (many of them are to factory paint-chip standards.)

     

    For straight lines on your Transformer, don't use masking tape, as the tape isn't made for small-scale masking. Use instead Scotch-brand magic tape. I prefer the matte-finish tape, as it does a better job. Get it in the 1 inch width; it'll go a long way. The trick to using it is to make sure that the base coat for your replica is ABSOLUTELY dry. If it isn't, the tape will pull up the paint when you remove it. (this is why I like Krylon's 1 hour formula,; you don't have to wait three years for it to dry!!) Burnish the tape down, then when you have the line(s) you want, paint. This method works for airbrush or hand painting. Now, in an earlier post, I listed a hair dryer as one of your tools. Here's why: acrylic paint dries a lot faster if you have a hair dryer blowing on it at a low, warm speed (NEVER PUT IT ON HIGH!! THAT"S ASKING FOR A MELTDOWN IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE!!). This greatly speeds drying your paintwork, and reduces the risk that you'll put your thumb inadvertently in some wet paint.

     

    After it's finally dry, remove the tape by pulling it at a 45 degree angle AWAY from the line. ( almost as if you were pulling the tape back over itself.) This lessens the chance of you pulling up paint with the tape. After that, clear cote it, and let dry!

     

    Use tape, JABoyle3875. Preferably Scotch magic mending tape. Vaseline has too great a risk of smearing, plus it will add oil to the plastic, which is the LAST thing you want to do. The smallest amount can prevent paint from adhering to the plastic, and Vaseline is notorious for getting all over the place (including places you don't want!). If you don't want to disassemble RID Prime, try wiping him down with rubbing alcohol, about 70% strength. Too strong, and it will remove detail paint. As for painting, I suggest very thin coats. Krylon has good coverage in thin coats, so you won't need too much.

     

    As for black Autobot symbol logos, try contacting Reprolabels at www.reprolabels.com. They can do custom orders for you, and their prices are very reasonable. plus, their stuff is high-quality; better than Hasbro's original labels.

     

    Another note: if you treat your transformers as models, you can't go wrong. Go to www.starshipmodeler.com for lots of good advice on kitbashing (they even have mecha models!)

  21. Here you go. Part 1-3 of Jackknife kitbashing guide

     

     

     

    Jack Knife’s The idiot’s guide to kitbashing

     

    1.

     

    Let's cover some basic ground first:

     

    TOOLS: The tools I recommend for most people are the following; Dremel rotary moto-tool (multi-speed with a Flexi-Shaft attachment) cutting wheels for the dremel tool, sanding drums (coarse and fine, 1/2 inch diameter), high-speed ball-shaped metal cutter (and the drum-shaped cutter as well), sandpaper (from 60 grit all the way to 440 grit, wet or dry) steel wool (0000 grade, found in better hardware stores), needle files( assorted), regular workshop files (medium tooth), an exacto-Knife with PLENTY of blades, a good pair of pliers, and two sets of scissors(one shoul be a small set for fine cutting, the other should be a pair of hospital bandage shears, for cutting sheet plastic), and a hair dryer (I'll explain later).

     

    MATERIALS: Other than the host Transformer(s) you plan to modify, you should have: Duco Plastic bonder (available at Wal-Mart or other hardware stores), sheet styrene in .20,.30. and .40 thicknesses ( available through your local hobby store), plastic model filler putty, super glue and super glue accelerator (the accelerator is available at your hobby shop), Krylon spray paints (base color of your choice), and either acrylic or enamel jar paints for your TF's secondary colors (Testors is a good choice).

     

    Before you begin any project, remember this: once you buy the toy or model, no one cares what you do with it, (except if it was your mom who bought it!) so feel free to modify the damn thing AS YOU SEE FIT!! No one is going to arrest you, or sue you "rampant toy destruction" (Except maybe Vik!), so go for it! ( Just kidding Vik!)

     

    The very first thing I do is planning and research. This is not as complicated as it sounds, and will save you a lot of misery. (believe me!) First off, you need to design out your idea, and your concepts for it's transformation. (IMPORTANT: during planning, you need to take into consideration where all the parts are going to go. it's easy to run into "conflicts" between two parts, or come up with a design that looks great on paper, but is physically impossible! Keep it as simple as possible.) Remember that even the most complex transforms are nothing more than simple joints and hinges, compounded into a larger mechanism.

     

    Once that's done, you need to find a TF that either most closely resembles what you want to make, or has the parts that will best work in your design. It's not uncommon to use two or three to get the parts you need. (Hint: save those extra parts! They'll come in handy on future projects!)

     

    The next thing I do with the prospective candidate transformer to be modified is to wash it off in soapy warm water, followed by a rinse. This removes the mould-release from it (mould release is what manufacturers use to make sure that the plastic comes out of the mould properly), and ensures that paint and glue adhere properly. if it's especially oily, I let it soak for a good half-hour. (Note: if your TF has internal electronics, I suggest you wipe it down with rubbing alcohol instead.) If it has gold plating, try soaking it in bleach overnight, or use 409 cleaner.( a friend suggested this one!)

     

    Now it's time for the modifications. To cut away what you don't want, use the dremel tool's cutting disc to slice away the parts that you want gone. (NOTE: be careful! Some parts that are removed may weaken the structural integrity of your model! be advised.) After that, Use the sanding drum to carefully smooth the edges, or you'll not only have a horrible joint, but you may nick yourself! To fasten parts together, first, use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the areas to be joined first. Then, mix the plastic bonder from the syringe-tube( remember: you have five minutes to use it before it cures.) Try to use it sparingly, as the stuff gets pretty warm pretty fast. Once you have it on the plastic, press the parts together, and let them set for fifteen minutes.

    Now, what most people don't realize is, you can work on other components while these dry. I call it stage construction (or common sense!). This speeds construction up very quickly, and you don't sit around bored. Under the right circumstances, you can finish your construction phase in as little as one or two sittings.

     

    Once you have the components together, you should them proceed to painting them BEFORE you assemble them. In this manner, you can get your parts done quickly, and you don't have to fuss with trying to handle a dripping-wet, fragile transformer. I use Krylon spray paint because it dries quickly, and can be recoated in minutes (unlike most other spray paints.). A few things to remember for good painting:

     

    1) Use the appropriate base coat. NEVER SPRAY THE PRIMARY COLOR ON WITHOUT A BASE COAT!! Otherwise, it'll look cheesy! White for light colors and metalics, grey for darker colors.

    2) Use thin, multiple coats. This ain't lawn furniture. If you do one heavy coat, it'll sag and take "until all are one" to dry! The first coat should be a light mist, not entirely covering the surface. Let dry for a moment, the a second, "orange peel" coat (bumpy looking). Let that dry, then a third, "almost heavy" coat. Let that dry fully( a day or so) then detail paints. I'll post more soon. If anybody else has tips, now's the time! Be back soon!

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