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Shapeways Modeling Thread


Markusius
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I will try that this weekend on my next model. Finally deleted all of the hidden geometry on the helmet and turret so they render correctly and placed an order for the set. Can't wait to get it.

 

Used the name Markusius (game handle) with my storefront name Soulkatana since I still own a web domain and twitter by the same name.

 

I must admit.. I was expecting a bit more from soulkatana.com .... lol

 

That's cool man, you should setup a facebook fanpage too. I've found that I get loads more interaction on facebook than I EVER got on my website. Even more so than on twitter. Twitter is just so... limiting.. :/

 

I have a plugin for sketchup that I use religiously before exporting DAEs called Solid Inspector (http://support.ponoko.com/entries/20337512-Find-holes-in-your-Sketchup-mesh-easily-with-the-Solid-Inspector-plugin)

It's grand when it comes to finding hidden geometry or faces. :)

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lol, I've had the domain for like 8 years and it's been my test site for school. It's never had any purpose so no real content has been placed on there. Now there is a purpose I guess. Twitter was setup to use their SMS for research on a toy locator idea but never had the time to fully develop it.

 

Oh man I scaled up the helmet to be slightly larger then the G1 Omega Supreme but I didn't realize how large it's going to be until after uploading it to Shapeways. From nose to the end of the turret is going to be approximately 5.5 inches. The turret unattached is just over 4 inches long. That plugin will come in handy. It took an hour or so to find all the hidden geometry that was removing or skewing surfaces. I plan on updating it with a more G1 cartoon face and the means to plug in the faceshield.

 

I love 3d printing. It's making accessible a hobby that I had no idea how to get into. Before 3d printing hit mainstream there were tons of ideas on how I could make a toy into another toy but cutting up a bunch of styrene and using glue and putty didn't really have the same appeal as digitally creating a part and having it printed. The following link sums up my thoughts about it. Now the ideas in my head have an outlet.

 

http://www.3dprinter.net/home-3d-printer-enthusiasts-making-more-than-knick-knacks

Edited by Markusius
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lol, I've had the domain for like 8 years and it's been my test site for school. It's never had any purpose so no real content has been placed on there. Now there is a purpose I guess. Twitter was setup to use their SMS for research on a toy locator idea but never had the time to fully develop it.

 

Oh man I scaled up the helmet to be slightly larger then the G1 Omega Supreme but I didn't realize how large it's going to be until after uploading it to Shapeways. From nose to the end of the turret is going to be approximately 5.5 inches. The turret unattached is just over 4 inches long. That plugin will come in handy. It took an hour or so to find all the hidden geometry that was removing or skewing surfaces. I plan on updating it with a more G1 cartoon face and the means to plug in the faceshield.

 

I love 3d printing. It's making accessible a hobby that I had no idea how to get into. Before 3d printing hit mainstream there were tons of ideas on how I could make a toy into another toy but cutting up a bunch of styrene and using glue and putty didn't really have the same appeal as digitally creating a part and having it printed. The following link sums up my thoughts about it. Now the ideas in my head have an outlet.

 

http://www.3dprinter...an-knick-knacks

 

that's my thoughts exactly man! That was one of the main reasons I got into papercraft, cause I could design and make models and then share those models with others. It became a means to mass production. I have nothing but respect for the guys that can make magic happen with some styrene and glue but if you wanted to make 2 of them then it becomes a problem. And if other folks liked your idea and wanted it as well then they have to commission you to make it for them or try to copy your work. 3D printing has truly brought toy and product design to the hobbyist. I know that I'll never get a job working for Hasbro or anything and frankly I wouldn't want to work for them. All of my designs would have to get passed by committee and safety tests and market research and what not.. that sounds like a hell of a head ache to me. If I can sell enough products to pay for my own shapeways orders then all will be right with the world :D

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So, it needs some digital rework. Part of the face is missing and some of the faces were thin but I'll still use it on my Omega Custom. This is one of the annoying things I've read about the Shapeways software. The parts upload and look fine and then the actual prints come out different.

 

Ran the various clean up tools on the model and it didn't fix the problem faces so on the next version I'll have to keep these wall thickness issues in mind.

 

Going to see how a couple of soulutions change the surface of the nylon print. One of the 3d printer startups are placing their models into a solution bath and it modifies the surface to be smoother and appear higher in definition. I personnally don't like the powdered surface look on the models and would like a smoother version prior to paint application.

 

The 3d Refiner finishes off models by placing the model into a constant stream under a solution bath and spins it for even coverage.

http://www.3dprinter.net/save-hours-of-printing-time-with-the-3d-refiner

post-1739-0-95817400-1365510236.png

post-1739-0-56687600-1365510249.png

Edited by Markusius
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yeah, wall thicknesses are definitely something you have to keep in mind as you are modeling. And the smaller your stuff, the more important it is to pay attention to that kind of thing. As for smoothing out the finish, you can go for the WSF Polished material, though you do lose a small amount of detail. I've never tried any of the chemical bath methods though I've seen a few tutorials on the subject. Most of those tend to be for your makerbot/reprap/home printer stuff that's printing in ABS so I don't know if it will work for the SLS Polymide material prints.

 

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The nylon that white strong flexible prints in is very strong. I peeled the bottom off since it was thinned on the edges. Going to use that to test some mixtures. The turret rotation point and connection on the end worked great. Nice and tight.

 

Will post results of different solutions on the nylon after some research and tests. Still, it would be real nice to get a printer for the house and use a finishing solution to polish it out instead of waiting 3 - 4 weeks for a print job to come in the mail. Print to ship takes too long with Shapeways. Wonder if there is another company that has sprung up yet to do the same thing.

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The nylon that white strong flexible prints in is very strong. I peeled the bottom off since it was thinned on the edges. Going to use that to test some mixtures. The turret rotation point and connection on the end worked great. Nice and tight.

 

Will post results of different solutions on the nylon after some research and tests. Still, it would be real nice to get a printer for the house and use a finishing solution to polish it out instead of waiting 3 - 4 weeks for a print job to come in the mail. Print to ship takes too long with Shapeways. Wonder if there is another company that has sprung up yet to do the same thing.

 

there's a few of them around now, but shapeways is the cheapest :(

 

If you need it faster and don't mind paying a bit more then I recommend going with http://www.sculpteo.com/en/ They claim to get stuff out in a few days, not weeks. Also they have more colored plastic options.

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A bit more? Man that's alot more. Guess 3-4 weeks is ok on my budget.

 

Think I'll order all the pieces and build one of the RepRap models. That way I can print some of the larger pieces at home and then finish it in a solution bath. We'll see. I have a faceshield coming that will be printed in Frosted Detail and a remodelled helmet/head coming.

 

The next thing will be the Prime armor. As soon as I'm done with a few other projects around the house. Going to try to seal the white strong flexible in a post processing solution. Read about superglue and acetone or floor polyurathane. Any thoughts? I just happen to have a gallon of floor poly in the garage.

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