Jump to content

THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


WraithVerge
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sorry Tramp, but you're still jumping to conclusions.

 

I highly doubt that Hasbro uses epoxy paints, and not because of the expense. Epoxy based paints are predominantly used on metal, not plastics, and the finish is very different than either acrylics or enamels.

From the BT interview

For the coating, we use epoxy-type paint, often used for die-cast miniature cars.

True, this is for BT's that are part die-cast. But compare alts & BT's like Grimlock and Silverstreak. It looks like exactly the same kind of paint. Also, it wasn't just the die-cast taht is/was painted with BT's: the entire figure was painted.

 

For one thing, epoxies are much harder; not just more durable, but physically harder and more rigid.

Exactly. And as we all know, the paint on TF's is much harder then what we can apply.

 

there is a clear difference between the epoxy paint and acrylics or enamels

Again, I agree. There is a clear difference. Just as there's a clear difference between the enamel and acrylic paints (available to us) and the paint on a TF.

 

As has been evidenced even among us kitbashers, who have stripped paint from these models, the methods used are the same as used to strip acrylic paints.

Those exact same methods also work on enamel paint. Actually, they were developed for enamel paint and only when acrylics were developed did it became clear those also work on them.

 

Now, the actual formulas and quality of poaints used may be better quality and more durable than we can get at our local hobby store, but they are acrylic based paints.

Jumping to conclusions again. You offer no proof of the kind of paint used: only arguments (and only half-baked ones). If hastak are using (acrylic/enamel) paint with different formulas and better quality then we as kitbasher can get, then it’s also very well possible that an enamel based paint will work on those flexible parts.

 

 

All in all, as I said before, you're jumping to conclusions that suit your personal preference. The information you have supplied does not warrant any conclusion on what kind of paint HasTak is using. It only makes clear they use the same kind of paint on both types of plastics. And, agreed, with the paint available to us kitbashers, that could be considered as an argument for the possibility that they're using acrylics. But its not proof or anything. All we've got right now is:

- the same kind of paint is used on the soft and the hard plastic (and with the paint available to regular customers enamels don't cure very well on soft plastic)

- on the BT they used epoxy based paint.

- paint on TF's (and all toys) is harder then paint available to the regular customer.

 

From these few facts we can draw many conclusions, but none of those are absolute because the foundation for those conclusions is just too limited.

 

(I also remember that a few years ago there was some problems with toys for younger children containing lead based paint...doesn't exactly sound like acrylic to me).

 

 

Furthermore, as you suggested yourself, if HasTak is indeed using either acrylics or enamels, it's most likely that they're using some high quality stuff with a different formula. Something we can't obtain or is too expensive. This doesn't automatically mean that the same kind of paint (acrylic/enamel) of a lower quality is the best paint to use by us kitbashers. TF's are made of hard plastic yet very few of us use hard plastics to scratchbuild or modify: we mostly use styrene because it's more readily available, cheaper and better workable.

 

I won't be surprised if HasTak is indeed using a type of high quality acrylic paint. After all, enamel paint is highly poisonous if you're exposed to them on a daily bases and especially if they're airbrushed on. (This is also the main reason why acrylics were developed.) It seems highly likely to me, that to comply with safety/health regulation the factory where TF's are painted uses acrylic based paints. However, this is still just arguments to create a thesis. There's currently no proof.

 

And that's my whole issue with your post. You're jumping to conclusions based on scarse information that can be interpreted in many ways.

 

 

 

Now, if you want to argue why we should use only enamels or only acrylics, I can give you several arguments and even several facts why one should go for either paint.

 

As I stated before, with the current information, there is no absolute best paint to use. Everyone has their preferences and everyone has good reasons to choose what they do.

 

As soon as you have absolute facts about the type of paint HasTak uses, please post this because I would like to know. Same as with the enamel-acrylic argument: as soon as you have testable proof about which is better, please post this because it's information we all could use. As long as you don't have facts or undisputable proof, please stop pushing your convictions on others. (Always make it "...IMO", or "I have been told that...but I can't proof it's correct".)

Edited by Rawhide
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, enamels won't, no matter the formula, because it is the laquers used in enamels which bonds to the plastics, and to do so requires a chamical reaction with the plastic. The Laquers simply can't bond with softer plastics. Secondly, the thinners used for acrylics are completely different from those used for enamels. Enamel thinners are petrolium based, such as tirpentine. Acrylic thinners are acetone or alcohol based. Acrylic thinners won't work on enamels and vice-versa. Given that I have removed factory paint from TFs using Tamaya acrylic thinner, this is further proof that their paint is acrylic, not enamel. as for the idea that tyey may be epoxy based, epoxies are too hard. They certainly are not flexible by any means. Epoxies are good for use on metal, not really for plastics, and certainly not for soft, flexible plastics. Takara used Epoxy paints on the car bodies because they were mad of metal, not plastic. Epoxies are the hardest, most durable paints, ideally suited for metal. However, that hardness is whatm makes it totally unsuited for plastic, which is flexible to varying degrees. Since Hasbopr uses the same paint on both their harder plastics and soft plastics like vinyl and urethane, that leaves acrylic based paint as the only option left. Epoxies are too hard and enamels won't cure. The only other option would be latex based paints, and those would be too soft.

Edited by Tramp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how to remove the windshield from and Alternators Camshaft/Prowl? I have the center console with the hand brake and shift knob removed as well as the seats and the hood, however, try as I may, I cannot seem to dislodge the windshield (and the piece it is connected to) from the floorboard piece. They seem like they are two separate pieces (are they?). I do not need to remove the windshield from the dashboard piece for what I'm doing, however, if that is the only way to separate the parts, please also tell me how to remove the pins (I have read the pin removal guides, but am VERY unclear as how to remove these specific pins).

 

Then also, what is a good way to remove acrylic paint from a clear plastic without destroying the clarity of the plastic? (I have read through this entire topic and seem to remember that there is a way, but I did that a while ago and have completely forgotten it--and I'm too lazy now to look, since I'm already asking another question).

 

Thanks for your help. Great guide by the way (the parts I remember)! This guide is the whole reason I decided to start kitbashing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how to remove the windshield from and Alternators Camshaft/Prowl? I have the center console with the hand brake and shift knob removed as well as the seats and the hood, however, try as I may, I cannot seem to dislodge the windshield (and the piece it is connected to) from the floorboard piece. They seem like they are two separate pieces (are they?). I do not need to remove the windshield from the dashboard piece for what I'm doing, however, if that is the only way to separate the parts, please also tell me how to remove the pins (I have read the pin removal guides, but am VERY unclear as how to remove these specific pins).

 

With this part I would really say, if you can do what you want to do without removal, then do so. Nevertheless, the part can be removed.

 

The windshield is connected to the main body with two pins. They go in from the side (beneath the doors) and stop inside the plastic. This means you can't hammer them out nor can you heat the pin and push it out. This means you have to use alternatives.

 

TFM ones told me that if you carefully heat the pin with a soldering iron without pushing on it, the pin should ever so slightly come out (something to with the expansion of the warmed up air behind the pin and the warming of the plastic). As soon as this happens remove the pin with pliers. I have never done this and somehow I doubt its success.

 

You can also determine to where the pin runs and drill a small hole behind it: this should be on the shoulders next to the head. Then heat the pin and use a nailpunch through this drilled hole to push the pin out. This will leave you with a small visible hole, but if you repaint these parts then you could also use some putty to fill it up.

 

And then recently I read that STPrime had used a different method. He had made the hole around the pin a little wider so he could pull the pin out with pliers. (Maybe you could contact him for more information.)

 

 

 

Then also, what is a good way to remove acrylic paint from a clear plastic without destroying the clarity of the plastic? (I have read through this entire topic and seem to remember that there is a way, but I did that a while ago and have completely forgotten it--and I'm too lazy now to look, since I'm already asking another question).

 

There are several methods of removing paint, but I honestly can't recall if any was specific for clear parts.

 

I think using a (acrylic) thinner would be your best best. Gently rubbing it one in low quantities with a soft cloth should slowly remove the paint. Should any damage occur to the plastic you can use toothpaste to make it transparant again. But be careful and watch out for spill.

 

 

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the answer Rawhide, I posted that project under "My Alt Camshaft," if you haven't seen it.

 

I have a handful more questions now for any willing listener:

 

I'm repainting an Alt Ravage. I have removed the wheels and pins with a soldering iron (really really easy!) and was wondering if anyone could tell me how to remove the two big leg pins out of each back leg? The same method as the wheel pins did not work. If this cannot be done, does anyone have a theory or strategy for me to spray paint the rear-sections of the car and the leg-sections separate colors (it's a stretch, but I can't even begin to figure out how to remove those pins)?

 

And removing factory decals (faction symbols and the alt license plates): diluted alcohol?

 

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I started typing my reply thinking you were talking about battle ravage, not the new Jaguar. So, my original suggestion of newspaper and painters tape may not be the best.

Still the safest best is to mask off as best you can what you don't want painted, wait for it to dry then do the reverse. Also, I've had some good results using silly putty to mask off abnormal shaped areas. But I've only used it on small spots (headlights) so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Find Transformers on Ebay


  • Posts

    • One year ago, Sunbow Productions alumni Flint Dille began auctioning off items from his nearly 40 year career in animation, RPG and computer game writing.  Listed below are the items that have been contributed by owners to the Sunbow Marvel Archive. I am hoping to add more items from the collection, particularly more TF items, if their new owners are agreeable to contributing. https://sunbowmarvelarchive.blogspot.com/2021/11/the-flint-dille-collection.html Listed in chronological order.  Mister T (cartoon, Ruby-Spears) Mystery Of The Forbidden Monastery full script   MP 700 The Transformers   35 Megatron's Master Plan, Part 2 - Additional Material section storyboard   MP 5206 Inhumanoids   05 The Evil Eye full storyboard (final revision, missing pages 101-106) 06 Primal Passions full storyboard (final revision, complete)   870108 Visionaries: Knights Of The Magical Light   Show Bible Unproduced script 01: The Magic Unloosed Unproduced script 02: The Powers Bestowed Unproduced script 03: The Dark Hand Of Treachery   Full scripts: 01 The Age Of Magic Begins 02 The Dark Hand Of Treachery 03 Quest For The Dragon's Eye 07 The Overthrow Of Merklynn 10 Trail Of The Three Wizards 11 Honor Among Thieves    
    • As you probably know Hasbro has been working towards diminishing the plastic used in their action figure packaging for environmental reasons. This is something we've already started to see with their new Fortnite line which has noticeably less in the way of clear plastic windows on the boxes to see the figure inside. Click Image to Read the Full News Story Now
    • Catch up on the Transformers news and events this week. We have rounded up all the new Transformers reports for the week of November 22 - 28, 2021 in this easy to read digest listed below followed by our latest poll(s). Click Image to Read the Full News Story Now
    • Catch up on all the great new Transformers product reviews and streams. We have rounded up ALL the new posts from the week of November 22 - 28, 2021 in this handy digest listed on the page below. Click Image to Read the Full News Story Now
    • Hello. After Ranger and Puffer, here is the second review of the golden disk collection - Jackpot (in French) Best.    
×
  • Create New...
Sign Up For The TNI Newsletter And Have The News Delivered To You!


Entertainment News International (ENI) is the #1 popular culture network for adult fans all around the world.
Get the scoop on all the popular comics, games, movies, toys, and more every day!

Contact and Support

Advertising | Submit News | Contact ENI | Privacy Policy

©Entertainment News International - All images, trademarks, logos, video, brands and images used on this website are registered trademarks of their respective companies and owners. All Rights Reserved. Data has been shared for news reporting purposes only. All content sourced by fans, online websites, and or other fan community sources. Entertainment News International is not responsible for reporting errors, inaccuracies, omissions, and or other liablities related to news shared here. We do our best to keep tabs on infringements. If some of your content was shared by accident. Contact us about any infringements right away - CLICK HERE