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THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


WraithVerge

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damn....any other ideas how i can obtain a Liberty TF?

 

Depending upon the body style and details, you may be able to modify the body of the alt to what you want. ) an alt swindle would be your best bet.) If that isn't possible, a complete reshell may be the only remedy.

 

On a side note, I agree with FG: reshells are NOT for beginners, at least, not alone. If you decide to undertake this Koolbeans, take it SLOW and ask for help at every step. The close tolerances, body parts strength problems, along with structural integrity issues of parts after removing original body panels and transform conflict issues can complicate matters greatly.

 

Now that I'm back, I'm planning on doing a section here specifically for reshells. It's been something that I've had to wrestle with on Hunter Rose's two projects that he entrusted to me (YES, they are STILL in progress! That's how hard it can get!!!), and I've learned quite a bit.

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Hey guys. Got a quick question for ya'll.

 

Someone on a Lego forum is having problems with faded / aged pieces and wants to try and 'freshen' em back up.

 

Now, I remember about a year or so back, there was a similar discussion about faded and aged/yellowing Transformers on this site, but I can't recall which section...so I figured this would be the best place to ask.

 

If I recalll the topic correctly, it suggested to use vaseline to replace some of the oils in the plastic...now I haven't posted this, since I'm not sure.

 

Can anyone confirm or deny this for me? (or offer any other freshening techniques for faded/aged plastics?)

 

Aoi

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AoiJunni,

 

I was the one who said you could revive plastics with vaseline, but that only replaces the oils lost from the plastic and prevents it from cracking or breaking from age. The colors in ABS plastics are dyes used in the initial manufacturing process. Your friend could try using RIT dye to re-dye the plastic (I've heard quite a bit about that technique from other KBers here at TFans). If any of the KBer's here have info on that process, please post! :thumb

 

As for un-yellowing plastic, I mistakenly said that you could use oxy pads to whiten yellowed plastics: in truth, that techniqe removes magic marker from plastics. (MY BAD!!! :lol) To be honest, I'm still researching that one myself. Perhaps bleach might work, but it may weaken plastics.

 

I think your best bet would be the dyeing techniqe, but I can't promise or guarantee the results.

 

Good luck to you and your friend on the legos!

 

-WV

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damn....any other ideas how i can obtain a Liberty TF?

 

Depending upon the body style and details, you may be able to modify the body of the alt to what you want. ) an alt swindle would be your best bet.) If that isn't possible, a complete reshell may be the only remedy.

 

On a side note, I agree with FG: reshells are NOT for beginners, at least, not alone. If you decide to undertake this Koolbeans, take it SLOW and ask for help at every step. The close tolerances, body parts strength problems, along with structural integrity issues of parts after removing original body panels and transform conflict issues can complicate matters greatly.

 

Now that I'm back, I'm planning on doing a section here specifically for reshells. It's been something that I've had to wrestle with on Hunter Rose's two projects that he entrusted to me (YES, they are STILL in progress! That's how hard it can get!!!), and I've learned quite a bit.

I was planning to shell an alt swindle with a liberty, but I haven't been able to find any 1:24 scale models anywhere. Only liberty model I've seen online is a 1:43. Anyone know if any company actually makes one alt-scale?

 

Looking forward to your reshell guide Wraith.

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Does anyone know if there are ANY 1:24 (or even 1:25) scale model kits of the International CXT?

 

I have searched and searched, and all I've been able to find are huge R/C toy versions and tiny Hot Wheels/Matchbox versions.

 

I -really- wanna make a custom Alt Optimus Prime from one, but first I have to find a model kit.

 

Any leads (company name, online/bricks-and-mortar location to find one, etc) would be VERY appreciated!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey TFans!

 

I'm a very Basic Kitbasher with only simple part swapping and minor detail painting skills.

 

Just picked up Classics 2 pack Skywarp and Ultra Magnus. LOVE Skywarp!

 

 

But I've noticed UM's Head is painted white over a Blue plastic. The proto was blue...

 

What can I use to strip the white off to safely reveal the true Blue underneath?

 

I've read through this post and Paint Thinner is recommended in one thread then NOT recommended in another...

 

Help!

 

I've got to "help" Ultra Magnus! He really is a victim of a poor paint job!

 

Thanks!

post-6821-1170600370_thumb.jpg

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Hey TFans!

 

I'm a very Basic Kitbasher with only simple part swapping and minor detail painting skills.

 

Just picked up Classics 2 pack Skywarp and Ultra Magnus. LOVE Skywarp!

 

 

But I've noticed UM's Head is painted white over a Blue plastic. The proto was blue...

 

What can I use to strip the white off to safely reveal the true Blue underneath?

 

I've read through this post and Paint Thinner is recommended in one thread then NOT recommended in another...

 

Help!

 

I've got to "help" Ultra Magnus! He really is a victim of a poor paint job!

 

Thanks!

 

amethysted,

 

Don't worry about being a "basic" kitbasher; we all start out that way! :lol

 

In all seriousness, for model plastics (styrene) you SHOULD NOT use paint thinner. It tends to make it brittle, and it eventually destroys it. For paint removal, I would start out with 91% Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (available at most pharmacies.) If that doesn't work, you can try paint thinner, but I suggest trying it on an inconspicuous area with a cotton swab first.

 

The best method I've come across is spraying easy-off oven cleaner on , and leaving the project overnight, (READ THE CAUTIONS FIRST!!!) Then, simply rinse it off the next morning (note; DO NOT USE on soft or clear plastics!) I would use this one only if the first two don't work.

 

Now, to repaint it, use Krylon spray paint. it dries a lot quicker, and has less fuss than most other spray-paints. Most folks here would recommend krylon fusion spray paint (specially formulated for plastics) but it takes a little more doing to use.

 

At any rate, if you need any additional help or advice, PM me or any of the gang here at The idiot's guide. We'll be happy to help you out however we can!

 

Godd luck on magnus! keep us posted! :thumb

 

-WV

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  • 1 month later...

Hey all.

 

I have zero kitbashing knowledge so I stick mostly to minor repainting (e.g. eyes/faces, details on Classic Starscream and Magnus). I'm planning repaints of the Classic Starscream mold as my first fully-blown repaint projects (Thundercracker for sure, and probably Sunstorm and some sort of "dark" counterpart to him)' I want a full complement of Seekers (at least, the original 3, Ramjet will have to do for the coneheads) and I don't have faith in Hasbro releasing TC. Wraith, where would you recommend starting with these? I'm not sure as to whether I should somehow strip the paint off entirely first, or spray paint them etc., so your input would be greatly appreciated.

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Hey TFans!

 

I'm a very Basic Kitbasher with only simple part swapping and minor detail painting skills.

 

Just picked up Classics 2 pack Skywarp and Ultra Magnus. LOVE Skywarp!

 

 

But I've noticed UM's Head is painted white over a Blue plastic. The proto was blue...

 

What can I use to strip the white off to safely reveal the true Blue underneath?

 

I've read through this post and Paint Thinner is recommended in one thread then NOT recommended in another...

 

Help!

 

I've got to "help" Ultra Magnus! He really is a victim of a poor paint job!

 

Thanks!

 

This is more about the Ultra Magnus than it is about paint removal. The reason why Ultra Magnus' head is molded in blue, then painted white is because the head is molded in the same mold as the legs. Therefore, to get Magnus' true unarmored head appearance, they have to paint it white. Magnus in his unarmored form is, and always has been a White "twin" of Optimus Prime, and the head is supposed to be white, not blue. The "prototype" you saw with the blue head is one where they forgot to paint it. If you look at the back of the box, you will notice that the head is also white, but the detailing is a bit different than the final production model. What you see on the box art is how Magnus' head is supposed to look, not what you saw at BotCon. The white helmet is the correct coloring. To get that look, all you need to do is use some Tamyia Sky blue acrylic paint with a little silver mixed in and paint the crest and face plate. then, if you want red optics, but still want to keep the light piping feature, remove the lightpiped optics and paint that entire piece with Tamyia red clearcoat. The end result will be deep crimson optics, not bright scarlet, but they will be red and the light piping will still work. If you don't care abpout the light piping, just paint the optics silver or gold, then go over them with red clearcoat, and paint the back white to match the rest of the helmet.

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