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THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


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Alumilite. It's the best casting resin I can think of. Better hobby shops carry it. It comes in two parts that you have to mix. In fact, they sell starter kits that have RTV (room temperature-vulcanizing) rubber you can use for molds, the two-part mix, and the mold-release agent to keep the parts from adhering to the mold. For yopur money, this is the best thing I can think of. For additional help on this go to:





this link should bring you right to their mold and casting library.


Hope this helps you out.



Edited by WraithVerge
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Just want to pass the word on a dandy KB tool.


I picked up that Coleman "Cold Heat" soldering iron that wev'e all seen on t.v. And it worked like a charm. I had my part removed in way less time vs. a plug-in. With the plug in iron I used to use, it took forever.

It is cordless, (4xAA), has a light on it to see your work and a indicator light to let you know its working. For $20 I couldn't go wrong.


Sweet  :thumb

Edited by plowking
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Ok, after purchasing all the proper materials you suggested, i am happy to infrom you that I have finished Thundercracker!  He looks great and transforms just well.  The transparent parts came out a bluish teal but it goes with the metallic blue just fine.  I'll get a pic for you as soon as I get a hold of a good camera!  thanks a ton man!

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Our good friend Masterminicon sent me his 20TH Anni Optimus Prime a while back for me to fix. Soon after I heard that others were having the same problem. So even though I had already fixed the one knee I decided to do the same thing to the other which really didn`t need it but it does even their look out and reenforces the knee to ensure that it won`t break like the other one did.


So first off here`s what you`ll need.


Multitool or pair of scizzors capable of cutting through aluminum

A sheet of aluminum flashing. You can find it very cheap in the roofing isle at your local Home Depot I think it was like $.33 or something like that. The piece I have shown is left over from my Rodimus Prime.

A model kit screw driver or some other small philips head screwdriver

A bottle of Testors Super Glue

An ultra fine point pen

And of course the leg you`ll be working on.




Next you`ll need to mark and cut a piece of the flashing that is the same width as the top of the knee joint. Also make sure you leave a narrow piece to go down in behind the "hydraulic pipes" for added strength. Note the one end of the metal piece has a thin piece sticking out of it.




Next curl the piece of metal around your pen so that it will fit tight around the knee




Next super glue the reenforcment to the knee joint making sure not to super glue inside of the area where the black gear piece is since that needs to be able to move back and forth.




Then simply put the leg back together and repeat on the other leg.






And yes even after all of this he`ll still be transformable.




All in all it should only take about 15-20 minutes to do each leg. The hardest part is puting it back together due to the strength of the spring.

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Good article, Rodimus! :thumb


I recently had my masterpice Convoy's knee break on me after a fall, so I know what a royal pain it is to piece the knee back together. Takara should have put a little more thought into the design IMO, but that's a debate for another day.) This info is great stuff! I'll be sure to use it.



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  • 3 weeks later...

Spartanwarrior (you like Halo 2 as well, huh? :thumb)


The difference between translucent paint and normal paint is that translucent paint allows light to pass through it ("trans"=through, "lucent" = light.) Put simply, the paint allows light to pass through it, bounce off of the surface underneath, and pass back through the paint. it allows artists to create effects on white canvasses that are breathtaking, like watercolors for example. It is also used to "optically mix" colors by applying two or more translucent paints to a surface, and the light passing through them both creates the color. (also known as "broken color" in painting.


Translucent paints are best used for effects where you want something to look like it has a bit of a glow to it, like eyes on robots or an energy weapon. The best procedure for this is to use a base of chrome silver or gold plate paint underneath the translucent layer, the apply the translucent paint on top. Don't confuse translucent with transparent, as trtansparent paints allow a lot more light to pass through.


BTW; I would be very careful lighting the head of any transformer, as if you're not careful with the light, it can melt the plastic immediately around the light. Use LEDs or something that doesn't get hot quick. And you might want to go with transparent paints if the paint is going to be over the eyes, depending upon the effect you're going for. Maybe if you tell me a bit more about what your project entails, I can help you out with what I know. :)




I hope this helps you out, spartanwarrior. If you need any more advice or tips, either post here or shoot me a PM. Good luck on your project!

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