Jump to content

THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing


WraithVerge

Recommended Posts

Any update on how your dying process is turning out, HR?

 

Anyhow, this isn't anything to do with dying, but here's a little tip I just macguyver'd while working on a model kit. If you're lacking an alligator clip to keep a hold of a small bit or piece you're painting, you can get a similar effect by taking a pair of tweezers, and holding it shut with a binder clip.

 

If anyone wants a photo example, lemme know and I'll edit this post. :thumb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest WraithVerge.

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT:

 

Due to a foul-up in my trying to register a new E-mail, my old account as "WraithVerge" is no longer usable by me. BaCon tried to fix it, but I still cannot access it.

 

What this has to do wit the Idiot's guide is that I am back under a Modified version of my old name, and that my post count is now ZERO. But I assure all of you that it is INDEED me, WV. I will still be writing for this topic, and I will still be giving out advice and tips like I have. I am hoping that this setback is only temporary, but even if it isn't, I will still be here.

 

Originally, I said if I had to use a new ID, I wouldn't return; but the friends I've made here, coupled with the fact that I've found my niche' in TFans dictates that I do otherwise. In short, I love doing what I do here, and when I look at it like that, 2000 posts don't mean as much as the friends and legacy I've made here. Those who know me will understand, and I hope everyone else will as well.

 

 

 

sincerely,

 

Robert.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT:

 

Due to a foul-up in my trying to register a new E-mail, my old account as "WraithVerge" is no longer usable by me. BaCon tried to fix it, but I still cannot access it.

 

What this has to do wit the Idiot's guide is that I am back under a Modified version of my old name, and that my post count is now ZERO. But I assure all of you that it is INDEED me, WV. I will still be writing for this topic, and I will still be giving out advice and tips like I have. I am hoping that this setback is only temporary, but even if it isn't, I will still be here.

 

Originally, I said if I had to use a new ID, I wouldn't return; but the friends I've made here, coupled with the fact that I've found my niche' in TFans dictates that I do otherwise. In short, I love doing what I do here, and when I look at it like that, 2000 posts don't mean as much as the friends and legacy I've made here. Those who know me will understand, and I hope everyone else will as well.

 

 

 

sincerely,

 

Robert.

 

Okay guys!!! Good news! BaCon got it fixed!

 

 

 

I'M BACK!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Idiot's Guide To KitBashing: Special Topic- Transform Joints

 

 

In kitbashing transformers, the most inportant part of the process is devising the transform for the robot. Most of the time, this becomes a tedious process of tiral-and-error, one that most of us usually don't look forward to (often, we have to compromise and make sacrifices with the design just to get the blasted thing to work right!!!) But one thing that can lessen the pain in the butt process is understanding the different types of joints that are used in transformers.

 

Examples of joints and hinges:

 

Ball and socket (think hip and thigh)

 

hinge (like a door hinge, think G1 Prime's trailer halves)

 

hollow sliding ( a larger part with a smaller part hiden inside, that slides out either by lever or by pulling on the larger part. G1 Megatron's fists and arms.)

 

rotary (like an elbow joint; one disk inside two ther disks, like a terminator endoskeleton's shoulder or elbow)

 

folding (like MP Starscream's wing joint folding up from the back)

 

Cam( a part mounted on an arm or cam that rotates, G1 Starscream's head.)

 

While this list is by no means all-inclusive, it has a basic set of hinges and joints that are usually used. (feel free to post others here.) Now, when placing these joints, there's a few things you have to take into consideration. For example:

 

-Is there enough clearance from other parts for it to work smoothly?

 

-Will it interfere or conflict with another joint?

 

-Can it be worked into the design and contained in the vehicle mode?

 

- Can it be mounted securely, without breaking away from the mount or causing the part it's attached to to break?

 

-Does it "work " aesthetically? (in other words, does it make the robot look cool, or does it make him clunky or ungainly looking?)

 

-Is it durable enough to resist repeated transforming stresses? ( An IMPORTANT one to consider!)

 

-if it needs replacing, or you want to build another, how easy is it to obtain?

 

Be forewarned: using joints and hinges from KO's (Knock-offs) is usually not a good idea, due to the fact that most of these are manufactured from a cheap, oily plastic. If you do decide to use them check the strength of them first; you don't want to find the perfect hinge, only to discover upon first transformation that it just cracked in half, ruining an awesome paint-job. (THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME!!!) Generally, I stick to using KO's only for details I need, or when there are no other alternatives.

 

As far as attaching joints and hinges go, use the strongest glue you have (goes without saying, right?). I prefer Devcon Plastoic welder, as It has never failed to hold a hinge or joint wehn the surface that it is mounted on is properly prepared.

 

On that note, make sure that before you glue ANYTHING to a surface, that the area to accept the hinge or joint is 1) scraped clean of all paint; 2) clean of ALL mold release and skil oils (your fingers are enough to contaminate the area; wash your hands often during this part.); 3) that the area is sanded with 100-grit sandpaper. This will give the glue or epoxy "tooth" (roughened area to get a good hold onto), and the joint/hinge will stay on a lot better. (NOTE: make sure both the surface of the joint to be glued AND the surface to accept the joint are treated this way.) And most importantly, 4) MAKE SURE THE PARTS ARE ALIGNED PROPERLY!!! You don't want to glue a joint/ hinge and let it set, only to find out later that it doesn't align right!!

 

Finally, after gluing, test the joint/ hinge assembly for any weaknesses or looseness. You may need to reglue the joint, or apply more epoxy/glue surrounding the mating area of the joint to reinforce the bond.

 

 

That's about it for now. As usual, any comments, tips or question can be posted here, and either I or one of our staff (or other readers) will be happy to answer them! (tips always welcome, especially fives, tens and twenties!! :lol)

 

Good luck, and good modeling!! :thumb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Idiot's Guide To Kitbashing Special Topic: Dioramas and Displays

 

 

After all the work you've put into your creation; the blood, sweat, tears (and of course, money!) it's finally ready to be displayed proudly. But where? On a shelf?

 

 

Maybe.

 

 

Your mantle?

 

Sure.

 

But what you REALLY want to do is depict your 'bot (or 'con) in the middle of action! Like, Prime at Teletran-1 (Mandingo Rex has an EXCELLENT display panel set for either Teletran-1, The Nemesis computer or the interior of the Ark at this link: http://forums.TFormers.com/talk/index.php?showtopic=91920 ), or a battle in the middle of an asteroid field, or even your transformer in alt mode racing along a street, or flying through space! The choices are endless, but to create some of these scenes, all you need are some basic materials:

 

1) STYROFOAM: Styrofoam, especially the kind that electronic equipment and toys are packed in, can serve as raw material for bombed out buildings, rocks/asteroids, boulders, and a plethora of other items. To create weathered/ destroyed buildings, all you need to do is to use a large piece of Styrofoam as the basis; remember to get a piece to scale with your transformer. (tv packing foam, the solid kind NOT pellets.) NOTE: Styrofoam breaks apart easily into small pieces and particles; lay down some newspaper first! Then, use an xacto knife to cut out where windows and doors would be, as well as to carve out "blast" holes and cracks.

 

Now, the next trick us to use a LIGHT layer of regular spray paint to partially "melt" the foam. (the xylene in the paint will do the trick, but be careful of the fumes!!!) This will make the marks look more "weathered", and give the piece a nice, beaten look. Afterwards, use acrylics in an airbrush (you can do it by hand) to paint up the piece. Remember to make the blast marks darker with brown/black paint. A touch of chalk pastels (ground-up, applied with a brush or cotton swab) and you're good to go! Asteroids and rocks can also be done this way, altering your methods slightly to produce an irregular, rocky surface rather than a flat, static wall.

 

2) CARDBOARD: Buildings, sidewalks and other urban settings, as well as inside dioramas can be made with cardboard. I trick I use is to lay a layer of masking tape on the surface to be painted, then seal it with matte finish. This gives you a flat, non-shiny surface to prime and then paint. (Be sure to tape the edges of the cardboard first, THEN lay the layer of tape on top of the flat surface, and MAKE SURE you burnish the tape down to avoid "dog-ears"!) These surfaces can be glues using Elmer's glue to a second piece of cardboard for added strength and stability. The masking tape can be used to assemble various piece's of the structure by applying a strip along the seam, and burnishing it down flat. Then all you do is seal, prime and paint! (not to mention the masking tape methods is a lot faster than trying to glue something.!)

 

 

3) MASKING TAPE/NEWSPAPER: As mentioned before, masking tape can be used in conjunction to make cardboard buildings. But in addition, I've used it to make mountainsides, landscapes with rocky crevasses, and even canyons! (small-scale, of course!) By using old newspaper along with it, you can make a "poor-man's paiper-mache' " by laying the crumpled newspaper down in the configuration you want, then laying thin strips of tape over to hold it in place. Then, using 2-inch masking tape, you begin to cover the surface until you've built it up enough. (use the cheap masking tape for this, or you'll go broke!!!)

 

4)SPACE/ AERIAL: This one is simple; for small scenes, I just use a black painted piece of poster board that i then take a paintbrush that has been dipped slightly in white paint and then wiped off, and i "flick" the brush in the direction of the cardboard. Tiny specs of white paint will go flying and hit the surface creating an irregular, random starfield. You can experiment with differing amounts of paint and the way you lick the paint at the cardboard to create more or less stars. For larger scenes, or for photographing larger models, I use an old, black bedsheet, but with the same technique for painting the stars. For scenes in the air, just look online and find a skyscene that suits you, and print it up. Then, get a piece of posterboard, and start painting! (for the non-artistic types, a poster of a skyscene will do.)

 

Now, concerning paiper mache' : I generally avoid it, as it gets pretty messy, takes a LONG time to dry, and is generally fragile to handle unless you make it REAL thick!!!

 

So hopefully, I've given you folks at least a few ideas on some of the things you can do with your kitbashes. As usual, this isn't the be-all-end all of diorama advice (it is 5 in the morning, you know!), so any tips or other advice, just post it here.

 

 

Now, if you'll excuse me, my bed awaits...

 

 

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
  • Create New...
Sign Up For The TNI Newsletter And Have The News Delivered To You!


Entertainment News International (ENI) is the #1 popular culture network for adult fans all around the world.
Get the scoop on all the popular comics, games, movies, toys, and more every day!

Contact and Support

Advertising | Submit News | Contact ENI | Privacy Policy

©Entertainment News International - All images, trademarks, logos, video, brands and images used on this website are registered trademarks of their respective companies and owners. All Rights Reserved. Data has been shared for news reporting purposes only. All content sourced by fans, online websites, and or other fan community sources. Entertainment News International is not responsible for reporting errors, inaccuracies, omissions, and or other liablities related to news shared here. We do our best to keep tabs on infringements. If some of your content was shared by accident. Contact us about any infringements right away - CLICK HERE