QC Problems? Report it Here!

[Reluttr]

Ive decided to start this thread as a QC awareness center of sorts. Basically all you do is tell us about the QC issues on your newest, favorite, or even least favorite figures. Hopefully the reports will help people become aware of the common issues that plague our figures. Also it is recommended you provide feedback to the reports, as to fill in some missing information such as "was it in the original mold?" and "do you share a similar defect?".

 

Some common places of where to Expect QC problems.

 

Gift Sets: I don't know if its just Hasbro/Takara trying to save money or what... but gift sets are almost always troubled with numerous QC issues compared to the original release. Yes even the repainted Gift Sets have this problem. More than likely this is purposely done in order to save money, for example they may just be gift packing figures that didn't pass the initial QC checks, but did not have any major life threatening issues. Its also quite possible that if the giftset is popular and they have to make more of the figures they will use inferior cheap-to-get plastic on the figures.

 

First Wave Molds: Generally it should be expected that the first few batches of new figures will have minor to major QC problems, for example my nieces chromia which was from the first wave, suffers from several problems like loose joints, bad connections, and etc. Where my later wave release has none of these issues. This is commonly shown by reviewers that get "leaked" versions of figures.

 

Reissue Molds: Now generally the first 2 or 3 repaints of a figure are great, but after so long the quality begins to fail horribly. A good example is the first movie scout repaints, if compared to the originals their quality was suffering... but if you compare the walmart 2 pack reissue's of the same mold, they look and feel like knock offs! *although it doesn't help they was gift-sets as well*

 

Clear Figures: This is to be expected, since this problem has existed since the g1 days. Although this is due to the fact that generally all clear plastic is super brittle.

 

"Premium" Figures with remolds, great paintjob, low price: If the price of the "Premium" figure is fairly low compared to the original, has a new mold, and has a fairly involved paintjob. Then expect QC issues, this is because HasTak has to save money somehow on the figures in order to provide it at a low price with a decent paint job. In order to save money they will probably use a inferior plastic that just wont stand up against much stress.

 

Now some common places where NOT to expect QC issues

 

Initial Repaints: Especially during ROTF, I have noticed that repaints have better quality than the original. This is probably because unlike the original, HasTak has some extra money to put into the quality and paintob of the figure, considering they didn't have to fund making a new mold. Also Since the mold is fairly new there isn't any mold defect problems yet.

 

Remolds of Older Figures: For example they take a RID figure and do some major remolding to look movie-like, Well this remold more than likely would be a much better quality than a strait up repaint. This is because HasTak has to make a new mold for the figure, meaning it will have very few mold defects compared to the what the original may have due to the effects of time and overuse. Also the new mold may even present fix's to the original version of the figure.

 

Premium Figures with remolds, great paintjob, higher price: If the price of the "Premium" figure is higher than the original, has a new mold, and decent paint job. Then it is very unlikely it will be plagued with defects. This is because HasTak decided to adjust the price instead of altering the quality of the plastic, which is great for us...not so much for our wallet. Although its true it will have some defects seeing as nothing is perfect, but it will be FAR less worse than if the plastic quality was inferior.

 

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Now to present the First QC Report.

 

Set Name : Road Rival Showdown "Walmart Exclusive 2 pack Giftset"

Price : 15$

Date Obtained : 3/19/2010

Fixable? : Sorta "details below"

Existed in Original Mold's? : Unknown ATM

 

My major QC issue's with this set are presented with Deadlift "aka ROTF Spoons", which is ironically the reason I bought the set! Anyways the QC issues I have are these.

 

-Torso does not properly lock in robot mode.

 

-Panel Hinges on the arms are very loose

 

-On the left arm, where the ball-joint assembly is, the pin was not properly put into place, due to the grey top left half of the forklift shell not lining up.

This makes the Transformation almost impossible. It is also unfix-able without ruining the figure in some way.

 

-The quality of the plastic used on the figure feels very subpar... although I do not have the original to compare it to, and I don't have any other figures made with orange plastic to compare either.

 

Beachcomber seems to have been lucky this time around, although he has one very minor issue where one shoulder wheel folds back slightly more than the other in robot mode. Again its not fixable, but seeing as it doesn't really effect his transformation, vehicle, or robot mode in anyway. I don't consider it to be a QC problem. Also beachcomber seems to be mostly made from a good plastic, the only issue is with his shoulder guns, which feel kinda weak on the tiny henge they are on. But again its not a major issue and is more than likely present on the original figure.

 

UPDATE

Fixing DeadLift can be very hit or miss, if you have my problem exactly then let me explain what the cause is. The hole for the pin on the troubled arm was not made deep enough, thus the pin cannot go down all the way. Also due to a defect, the shaft of assembally is slightly bigger than the hole on the top of the forklift. So what you have to do is if possible go in and cut off some excess plastic on the shaft, not a whole lot, just enough to make it easier to move the roof down further. Now take a pair of pliers and stick a sock over the end, so that there is a cushion on the pinchy part. now gently apply force and move down the roof part untill it is close to the same as the other arm. Now its impossible to move that pin...dont even try it...it will cause horrible stress marks. Instead loosen the balljoint piece to where you can easily move it up and down, apply some glue to the exposed shaft and slide the balljoint down untill it meets the roof assembaly. After the glue drys simply shoot some glue into the top of the balljoint to secure it further.

 

Now with this fix comes some issues... there will be some minor stress marks... and technically it could come apart, since the only thing holding it in place is super glue. but if you cant to transform deadlife you ahve to do this... My advice is to just exchange the two pack for another and hope you have more luck.

[Yuyuyami]

A lot of the things you complain about are actually quite easily fixable.

 

Loose locking mechanism? Take some plastic shavings and beef up the clips on the inside with superglue.

 

Loose hinges? Make 'em tighter with superglue.

 

Asymmetry on a symmetric figure? Figure out where the molding differences are and shave them down to be the same.

 

 

For example: My MP Grimlock, to my disappointment, had a loose right arm/leg. So I popped it off, opened the leg and took out the cup. I took a small plastic shaving and glued it to the rim of the cup so there'd be another grip. I also put a little bit of glue in the cup itself and swirled it around so there'd be just a little bit more friction. Now it's nice and tight and wonderful.

[bugstomper1973]

The only real QC control I have had with any figures thus far has been the whole ball joint thing. I have had two figures now, Animated Bumblebee and RoTF Chromia, who have had ball joint degradation rather quickly. I don't think either figure has been transformed more than a couple of times and the female end of the ball joint has cracked. Not good.

[Reluttr]

A lot of the things you complain about are actually quite easily fixable.

 

Loose locking mechanism? Take some plastic shavings and beef up the clips on the inside with superglue.

 

Loose hinges? Make 'em tighter with superglue.

 

Asymmetry on a symmetric figure? Figure out where the molding differences are and shave them down to be the same.

 

 

For example: My MP Grimlock, to my disappointment, had a loose right arm/leg. So I popped it off, opened the leg and took out the cup. I took a small plastic shaving and glued it to the rim of the cup so there'd be another grip. I also put a little bit of glue in the cup itself and swirled it around so there'd be just a little bit more friction. Now it's nice and tight and wonderful.

 

That's the thing, I cant figure out how to remove the pin without damaging him :( Cause the assembly is held together with a screw at one end, and then there is a rivet type pen going through the ball joint into the panel.

[Yuyuyami]

True enough, some things just can't be disassemble, like the shoulder on Universe 2.0 Ravage, and I haven't handled that forklift Scout in a while, so I can't remember how he's put together.

[Reluttr]

GOD DANGIT!!!!!!!! I just got another set and the same exact problem in the same exact place :(!

 

EDIT, I managed to fix this one without making any stress marks :D The trick is to not mess with the pin at all!!!!

[Reluttr]

Set Name : SonoKong Thunder Baron

Price : 35$ + shipping

Date Obtained : 3/26/2010

Fixable? : YES

 

The blue jet seems to be the problem child of the group, which makes me sad there is any problems to begin with because this is just an awesome set. Anyways let me describe the problem in detail.

 

On the left rear tail fin/rudder there is severe mold damage. If you look on the right fin you can see there is a line running down it, well this is missing from the other side. The other side is completely blank except for some strange deformations.

 

Picture of how its supposed to be...

 

Picture of the deformed side...

 

Now for the other QC problem with the jet, in jet mode there is 4 sockets where you can plug in his weapons in jet mode. on the front most sockets "made of blue plastic" one on mine cracked when inserting his weapon. Whats worse is that the weapons seem to fit as tight in all the sockets out of the box. The only thing I can suggest is wiping out the sockets with a qtip and perhaps ever so lightly sanding the pegs if they are to tight on your model. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING, if its going to be difficult to put into the socket "and you should know when you start" then dont do it, and for heavens sake don't try putting the big tanks cannons in any of the smaller figures. That is just asking for trouble.

 

UPDATE!

 

It is possible to fix both of the issues.

 

What you need.

-High grain count sandpaper

-exacto or knife

-plexyglass scratch remover

-small handheld saw *optional*

 

1. Start by cutting a score line with your exacto knife where the line should be on the tail fin.

2. Then precede to use the small handheld saw to deepen the line evenly.

3. Now lightly sand the tail fin area, and clean area after sanding.

4. Apply plexy glass scratch remover paste and either use a rage, cotton ball, or q-tip to rub the creme in circular motions.

5. Repeat until desired sheen and look is acheved.

 

Notes, the saw creates a much more factory looking line. Also if its possible to get a fine grit, Also if its possible to get fine and super fine grit sand paper it will help lots. Because the fine grit paper evens out the area where the scratches are, and the super fine reduces the depth of the scratches so when you use the scratch removing paste you do not have to rub as hard.

 

How to fix socket issue.

 

This one is fairly easy actually, you only need simple tools such as super glue and sand paper.

 

1. Use something to slightly widen the crack *be ultra super carefull*

2. while the crack is open simply shoot some super glue into the crack and release pressure so it closes up. wipe off any excess glue.

3. After the glue has had a full 24 hours to cure, use sand paper to even off the surface outside of the socket. *OPTIONAL* you can use plexy glass scratch remover to polish up the area.

4. if there is any excess glue inside the socket, just simply remove it by scratching it out with a exacto blade, screw driver, etc. It may also help to put some scratch removing paste on a q-tip and swirl it around in the socket.

5. clean the socket with 70-90% alcohol.

 

NOTES

If the weapon is still a very tight fit, you might need to slightly sand down the peg on the weapon.

If you accidentally sand the peg to much, you can either apply a layer of clear nail polish or super glue to the peg.