I'm looking at doing a fairly involved Alternators kitbash and reshell. One of the donor cars I'm looking at is a diecast. While I'd love to use the diecast, I'm wary as to how difficult it will be chopping up the metal. Has anyone done this before? If so, what were the tools you used, and do you have any tips?

My first custom (still unfinished--I am lazy!) is based on a die cast Microbus model. Parting it out was easy but tedious. I used a dremel metal cutting bit primarily, but you'll get less kerf with a hacksaw. Any time you cut with a saw or grinder, you lose some material that'll have to be built back up with Green Stuff, or epoxy, etc--this is the "kerf." So you cut a line down the center, say, and when you put the halves back together the car is a milimeter thinner than an uncut model.

You can avoid this in plastic by scoring with a knife, but I don't know what could do that to metal! You can also avoid this problem by buying two of the model; say you have to cut it in half down the center. You draw that center line on each, and cut on the opposite side of the line on either model. The correct 'halves,' assembled, should then match up with the original dimensions.

Talk to Wikkid.

If anyone knows he will, his mp works are mesmirising.

Okay, I can help you with this RoninJai: Before you do anything a few word of caution: cutting diecast requires a rotary tool (dremel or craftsman), a firberglass-reinforced cutting wheel ($5 for a pack of 5 at wal-mart) and a dust mask. Also, cutting or sanding is going to produce a LOT of small shards of metal, as well as metal dust. But the biggest problem is that the cutting wheel is going to want to skip like CRAZY, (more on this in a second.) and the metal will heat up from the friction of the cutting wheel. (potential burn hazard here)

Cctting diecast depends greatly upon the THICKNESS of the metal you are cutting. Generally, Die cast an range fron softer iron to harder steels in die cast toys. Mostly, it's the softer stuff. (harder metals melt at higher temps.) The thicker the metal, the longer and more difficult cutting is going to be. As for marking it off for cutting, I recommend using a line of masking tape on one side of the cut line: this reduces the chance of mis-cutting.

Now, to reduce the chances of skipping even further, CUT SLOW. This will make your cuts more accurate, and reduce the heat effect on the metal. Allowing the metal to cool after cutting for a minute or two helps as well. This ensures that you don't accidentally burn youself. (yes, the metal can get THAT hot!)

The keyword here is PATIENCE: it's going to take a little time, but following this, you should be able to seperate tbody into the parts taht you want. One closing bit of info: try not to rest your heand or any uncoverd part of your skin on the metal while cutting. The heat can build up remarkably quick, and surprise you with a burn. I recomment a pair of work gloves, or a small vice 9preferrably both.)

I'm not trying to scare you off, RoninJai. Just passing on some info that i learned the hard way.

Good luck On your project : I'd like to see how it works out for ya!



-WV

Thanks for the info. Stuff like the cutting wheel you mentioned is what I was talking about. Not scaring me any, I'm good to go. I've been wanting to do this for a LONG time...and finally the kits came out I've been waiting for, so I'm about to get started collecting all my materials.

How long would you say one of those fiberglass discs is going to last me? You think I could get the whole project out of it?

An Exacto saw worked for me when I needed to cut down some die-cast parts. It still carves out some material, but less than the Dremel.

I have my wonderful new dremel for most things... but had an older one specifically for cutting harder materials (I make jewelry from stone sometimes.) If you MUST dremel... the way to go for the thinnest cut is with the diamond wheel. But the only way to get decent life out of one is to water cool. This is obviously hard on the dremel, but shouldn't kill it. Mine held up fine for the most part. I'm not saying I recommend this as you'd be better off building yourself a tablesaw type rig with a circular jewelry slotting blade, but it works in a pinch. I tend to make my own tools for a given situation but realize that most wouldn't care to. You could always get a jeweler's saw and do it by hand. That would make a cut without much material loss.

What would a jewelers saw typically run, price wise?

Here's a link to what I use for metal (and certain plastics).

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....weler's+Saw

It's very accurate but takes some time of course since it's just a hand tool. But for the price, and effectiveness, every basher should have one.