FOREWORD
"If anyone has the first three of my posts as JackKnife in the original guide, plese post the info here.
On that subject, I'd like to take this opportunity to apologize to all the kitbashing fans here at TFans for removing it. It was stupid, and only ended up hurting people that weren't even involved in my quarrels.
As for the new guide, I will be updating it with my latest advances. Just think of it as being revamped and overhauled.
-WraithVerge"
A year ago, this guide was removed, and it is due to the dilegence of those in the kitbashing community that it is once again present, here at TFans.com.
I have spent the better part of my last 33 years in life learning, through trial and error, both the techniques that work, and the ones that don't, that can either make or break a project. Learning these skills took a great deal of time, patience, and of course, blood, sweat and tears.
To that end, this guide has been re-established to aid the Kitbasher community, both newbie and expert alike, in their quest to realize their own unique Transforming Robots, vehicles, and characters in the physical world.
Therefore, I welcome you all to:
The Idiot's Guide To KitBashing
Full Version: THE Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing
Here you go. Part 1-3 of Jackknife kitbashing guide
Jack Knife’s The idiot’s guide to kitbashing
1.
Let's cover some basic ground first:
TOOLS: The tools I recommend for most people are the following; Dremel rotary moto-tool (multi-speed with a Flexi-Shaft attachment) cutting wheels for the dremel tool, sanding drums (coarse and fine, 1/2 inch diameter), high-speed ball-shaped metal cutter (and the drum-shaped cutter as well), sandpaper (from 60 grit all the way to 440 grit, wet or dry) steel wool (0000 grade, found in better hardware stores), needle files( assorted), regular workshop files (medium tooth), an exacto-Knife with PLENTY of blades, a good pair of pliers, and two sets of scissors(one shoul be a small set for fine cutting, the other should be a pair of hospital bandage shears, for cutting sheet plastic), and a hair dryer (I'll explain later).
MATERIALS: Other than the host Transformer(s) you plan to modify, you should have: Duco Plastic bonder (available at Wal-Mart or other hardware stores), sheet styrene in .20,.30. and .40 thicknesses ( available through your local hobby store), plastic model filler putty, super glue and super glue accelerator (the accelerator is available at your hobby shop), Krylon spray paints (base color of your choice), and either acrylic or enamel jar paints for your TF's secondary colors (Testors is a good choice).
Before you begin any project, remember this: once you buy the toy or model, no one cares what you do with it, (except if it was your mom who bought it!) so feel free to modify the damn thing AS YOU SEE FIT!! No one is going to arrest you, or sue you "rampant toy destruction" (Except maybe Vik!), so go for it! ( Just kidding Vik!)
The very first thing I do is planning and research. This is not as complicated as it sounds, and will save you a lot of misery. (believe me!) First off, you need to design out your idea, and your concepts for it's transformation. (IMPORTANT: during planning, you need to take into consideration where all the parts are going to go. it's easy to run into "conflicts" between two parts, or come up with a design that looks great on paper, but is physically impossible! Keep it as simple as possible.) Remember that even the most complex transforms are nothing more than simple joints and hinges, compounded into a larger mechanism.
Once that's done, you need to find a TF that either most closely resembles what you want to make, or has the parts that will best work in your design. It's not uncommon to use two or three to get the parts you need. (Hint: save those extra parts! They'll come in handy on future projects!)
The next thing I do with the prospective candidate transformer to be modified is to wash it off in soapy warm water, followed by a rinse. This removes the mould-release from it (mould release is what manufacturers use to make sure that the plastic comes out of the mould properly), and ensures that paint and glue adhere properly. if it's especially oily, I let it soak for a good half-hour. (Note: if your TF has internal electronics, I suggest you wipe it down with rubbing alcohol instead.) If it has gold plating, try soaking it in bleach overnight, or use 409 cleaner.( a friend suggested this one!)
Now it's time for the modifications. To cut away what you don't want, use the dremel tool's cutting disc to slice away the parts that you want gone. (NOTE: be careful! Some parts that are removed may weaken the structural integrity of your model! be advised.) After that, Use the sanding drum to carefully smooth the edges, or you'll not only have a horrible joint, but you may nick yourself! To fasten parts together, first, use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the areas to be joined first. Then, mix the plastic bonder from the syringe-tube( remember: you have five minutes to use it before it cures.) Try to use it sparingly, as the stuff gets pretty warm pretty fast. Once you have it on the plastic, press the parts together, and let them set for fifteen minutes.
Now, what most people don't realize is, you can work on other components while these dry. I call it stage construction (or common sense!). This speeds construction up very quickly, and you don't sit around bored. Under the right circumstances, you can finish your construction phase in as little as one or two sittings.
Once you have the components together, you should them proceed to painting them BEFORE you assemble them. In this manner, you can get your parts done quickly, and you don't have to fuss with trying to handle a dripping-wet, fragile transformer. I use Krylon spray paint because it dries quickly, and can be recoated in minutes (unlike most other spray paints.). A few things to remember for good painting:
1) Use the appropriate base coat. NEVER SPRAY THE PRIMARY COLOR ON WITHOUT A BASE COAT!! Otherwise, it'll look cheesy! White for light colors and metalics, grey for darker colors.
2) Use thin, multiple coats. This ain't lawn furniture. If you do one heavy coat, it'll sag and take "until all are one" to dry! The first coat should be a light mist, not entirely covering the surface. Let dry for a moment, the a second, "orange peel" coat (bumpy looking). Let that dry, then a third, "almost heavy" coat. Let that dry fully( a day or so) then detail paints. I'll post more soon. If anybody else has tips, now's the time! Be back soon!
Jack Knife’s The idiot’s guide to kitbashing
1.
Let's cover some basic ground first:
TOOLS: The tools I recommend for most people are the following; Dremel rotary moto-tool (multi-speed with a Flexi-Shaft attachment) cutting wheels for the dremel tool, sanding drums (coarse and fine, 1/2 inch diameter), high-speed ball-shaped metal cutter (and the drum-shaped cutter as well), sandpaper (from 60 grit all the way to 440 grit, wet or dry) steel wool (0000 grade, found in better hardware stores), needle files( assorted), regular workshop files (medium tooth), an exacto-Knife with PLENTY of blades, a good pair of pliers, and two sets of scissors(one shoul be a small set for fine cutting, the other should be a pair of hospital bandage shears, for cutting sheet plastic), and a hair dryer (I'll explain later).
MATERIALS: Other than the host Transformer(s) you plan to modify, you should have: Duco Plastic bonder (available at Wal-Mart or other hardware stores), sheet styrene in .20,.30. and .40 thicknesses ( available through your local hobby store), plastic model filler putty, super glue and super glue accelerator (the accelerator is available at your hobby shop), Krylon spray paints (base color of your choice), and either acrylic or enamel jar paints for your TF's secondary colors (Testors is a good choice).
Before you begin any project, remember this: once you buy the toy or model, no one cares what you do with it, (except if it was your mom who bought it!) so feel free to modify the damn thing AS YOU SEE FIT!! No one is going to arrest you, or sue you "rampant toy destruction" (Except maybe Vik!), so go for it! ( Just kidding Vik!)
The very first thing I do is planning and research. This is not as complicated as it sounds, and will save you a lot of misery. (believe me!) First off, you need to design out your idea, and your concepts for it's transformation. (IMPORTANT: during planning, you need to take into consideration where all the parts are going to go. it's easy to run into "conflicts" between two parts, or come up with a design that looks great on paper, but is physically impossible! Keep it as simple as possible.) Remember that even the most complex transforms are nothing more than simple joints and hinges, compounded into a larger mechanism.
Once that's done, you need to find a TF that either most closely resembles what you want to make, or has the parts that will best work in your design. It's not uncommon to use two or three to get the parts you need. (Hint: save those extra parts! They'll come in handy on future projects!)
The next thing I do with the prospective candidate transformer to be modified is to wash it off in soapy warm water, followed by a rinse. This removes the mould-release from it (mould release is what manufacturers use to make sure that the plastic comes out of the mould properly), and ensures that paint and glue adhere properly. if it's especially oily, I let it soak for a good half-hour. (Note: if your TF has internal electronics, I suggest you wipe it down with rubbing alcohol instead.) If it has gold plating, try soaking it in bleach overnight, or use 409 cleaner.( a friend suggested this one!)
Now it's time for the modifications. To cut away what you don't want, use the dremel tool's cutting disc to slice away the parts that you want gone. (NOTE: be careful! Some parts that are removed may weaken the structural integrity of your model! be advised.) After that, Use the sanding drum to carefully smooth the edges, or you'll not only have a horrible joint, but you may nick yourself! To fasten parts together, first, use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the areas to be joined first. Then, mix the plastic bonder from the syringe-tube( remember: you have five minutes to use it before it cures.) Try to use it sparingly, as the stuff gets pretty warm pretty fast. Once you have it on the plastic, press the parts together, and let them set for fifteen minutes.
Now, what most people don't realize is, you can work on other components while these dry. I call it stage construction (or common sense!). This speeds construction up very quickly, and you don't sit around bored. Under the right circumstances, you can finish your construction phase in as little as one or two sittings.
Once you have the components together, you should them proceed to painting them BEFORE you assemble them. In this manner, you can get your parts done quickly, and you don't have to fuss with trying to handle a dripping-wet, fragile transformer. I use Krylon spray paint because it dries quickly, and can be recoated in minutes (unlike most other spray paints.). A few things to remember for good painting:
1) Use the appropriate base coat. NEVER SPRAY THE PRIMARY COLOR ON WITHOUT A BASE COAT!! Otherwise, it'll look cheesy! White for light colors and metalics, grey for darker colors.
2) Use thin, multiple coats. This ain't lawn furniture. If you do one heavy coat, it'll sag and take "until all are one" to dry! The first coat should be a light mist, not entirely covering the surface. Let dry for a moment, the a second, "orange peel" coat (bumpy looking). Let that dry, then a third, "almost heavy" coat. Let that dry fully( a day or so) then detail paints. I'll post more soon. If anybody else has tips, now's the time! Be back soon!
Part 2
Okay, I'm back for more! Before I continue on any further, I want to elaborate a little further on planning transforms for your projects, as I really didn't go into it in depth the last time:
First off, there’s nothing wrong with taking part of another transformer’ s transform, so long as: 1) it works, and 2) you give credit where it's due (for example, my character JackKnife's transform is taken from Super Go bot Spay-C, with some refinements from myself!). Other than that, it's how creative you want to be, and if it would be more structurally stable to cannibalize a transform from another character rather than scratchbuild your own, then you owe it to yourself to make sure that your creation stands the test of time.
Secondly, for those of you who want to build your character's transform from scratch, a word of warning: DO NOT USE STYRENE for joints and support members!!!! Use ABS plastic instead! The reason for this is that styrene ( the plastic used in plastic models) cannot withstand the repeated stresses of transformation. Eventually, it will break and fall apart ( I learned this the hard way on JackKnife!). ABS plastic is the hard plastic most commonly used for stereo boombox cabinets, refrigerator shelf retainers (those strips of plastic that keep the mustard and relish on the door!), and a whole bunch of other places. It's okay to use styrene model parts for the actual vehicle parts, like doors, cockpits, engine details, and so forth. But trust me, use ABS for joints and structural members. Your Transformer will thank you!!
On to Detail Painting: I use apple barrel acrylic colors, available at Wal-Mart, Michaels, and other craft stores. these paints are really cheap in price (.89 cents a bottle), and they thin with alcohol or water. But a word of advice: coat them with Krylon Crystal Cote, or they'll scratch off! For more durable paints, use testors acrylic colors. These are more expensive (2.50- 3.00 a bottle) but they come pre-mixed in a wide array of ready-to-use colors. (many of them are to factory paint-chip standards.)
For straight lines on your Transformer, don't use masking tape, as the tape isn't made for small-scale masking. Use instead Scotch-brand magic tape. I prefer the matte-finish tape, as it does a better job. Get it in the 1 inch width; it'll go a long way. The trick to using it is to make sure that the base coat for your replica is ABSOLUTELY dry. If it isn't, the tape will pull up the paint when you remove it. (this is why I like Krylon's 1 hour formula,; you don't have to wait three years for it to dry!!) Burnish the tape down, then when you have the line(s) you want, paint. This method works for airbrush or hand painting. Now, in an earlier post, I listed a hair dryer as one of your tools. Here's why: acrylic paint dries a lot faster if you have a hair dryer blowing on it at a low, warm speed (NEVER PUT IT ON HIGH!! THAT"S ASKING FOR A MELTDOWN IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE!!). This greatly speeds drying your paintwork, and reduces the risk that you'll put your thumb inadvertently in some wet paint.
After it's finally dry, remove the tape by pulling it at a 45 degree angle AWAY from the line. ( almost as if you were pulling the tape back over itself.) This lessens the chance of you pulling up paint with the tape. After that, clear cote it, and let dry!
Use tape, JABoyle3875. Preferably Scotch magic mending tape. Vaseline has too great a risk of smearing, plus it will add oil to the plastic, which is the LAST thing you want to do. The smallest amount can prevent paint from adhering to the plastic, and Vaseline is notorious for getting all over the place (including places you don't want!). If you don't want to disassemble RID Prime, try wiping him down with rubbing alcohol, about 70% strength. Too strong, and it will remove detail paint. As for painting, I suggest very thin coats. Krylon has good coverage in thin coats, so you won't need too much.
As for black Autobot symbol logos, try contacting Reprolabels at www.reprolabels.com. They can do custom orders for you, and their prices are very reasonable. plus, their stuff is high-quality; better than Hasbro's original labels.
Another note: if you treat your transformers as models, you can't go wrong. Go to www.starshipmodeler.com for lots of good advice on kitbashing (they even have mecha models!)
Okay, I'm back for more! Before I continue on any further, I want to elaborate a little further on planning transforms for your projects, as I really didn't go into it in depth the last time:
First off, there’s nothing wrong with taking part of another transformer’ s transform, so long as: 1) it works, and 2) you give credit where it's due (for example, my character JackKnife's transform is taken from Super Go bot Spay-C, with some refinements from myself!). Other than that, it's how creative you want to be, and if it would be more structurally stable to cannibalize a transform from another character rather than scratchbuild your own, then you owe it to yourself to make sure that your creation stands the test of time.
Secondly, for those of you who want to build your character's transform from scratch, a word of warning: DO NOT USE STYRENE for joints and support members!!!! Use ABS plastic instead! The reason for this is that styrene ( the plastic used in plastic models) cannot withstand the repeated stresses of transformation. Eventually, it will break and fall apart ( I learned this the hard way on JackKnife!). ABS plastic is the hard plastic most commonly used for stereo boombox cabinets, refrigerator shelf retainers (those strips of plastic that keep the mustard and relish on the door!), and a whole bunch of other places. It's okay to use styrene model parts for the actual vehicle parts, like doors, cockpits, engine details, and so forth. But trust me, use ABS for joints and structural members. Your Transformer will thank you!!
On to Detail Painting: I use apple barrel acrylic colors, available at Wal-Mart, Michaels, and other craft stores. these paints are really cheap in price (.89 cents a bottle), and they thin with alcohol or water. But a word of advice: coat them with Krylon Crystal Cote, or they'll scratch off! For more durable paints, use testors acrylic colors. These are more expensive (2.50- 3.00 a bottle) but they come pre-mixed in a wide array of ready-to-use colors. (many of them are to factory paint-chip standards.)
For straight lines on your Transformer, don't use masking tape, as the tape isn't made for small-scale masking. Use instead Scotch-brand magic tape. I prefer the matte-finish tape, as it does a better job. Get it in the 1 inch width; it'll go a long way. The trick to using it is to make sure that the base coat for your replica is ABSOLUTELY dry. If it isn't, the tape will pull up the paint when you remove it. (this is why I like Krylon's 1 hour formula,; you don't have to wait three years for it to dry!!) Burnish the tape down, then when you have the line(s) you want, paint. This method works for airbrush or hand painting. Now, in an earlier post, I listed a hair dryer as one of your tools. Here's why: acrylic paint dries a lot faster if you have a hair dryer blowing on it at a low, warm speed (NEVER PUT IT ON HIGH!! THAT"S ASKING FOR A MELTDOWN IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE!!). This greatly speeds drying your paintwork, and reduces the risk that you'll put your thumb inadvertently in some wet paint.
After it's finally dry, remove the tape by pulling it at a 45 degree angle AWAY from the line. ( almost as if you were pulling the tape back over itself.) This lessens the chance of you pulling up paint with the tape. After that, clear cote it, and let dry!
Use tape, JABoyle3875. Preferably Scotch magic mending tape. Vaseline has too great a risk of smearing, plus it will add oil to the plastic, which is the LAST thing you want to do. The smallest amount can prevent paint from adhering to the plastic, and Vaseline is notorious for getting all over the place (including places you don't want!). If you don't want to disassemble RID Prime, try wiping him down with rubbing alcohol, about 70% strength. Too strong, and it will remove detail paint. As for painting, I suggest very thin coats. Krylon has good coverage in thin coats, so you won't need too much.
As for black Autobot symbol logos, try contacting Reprolabels at www.reprolabels.com. They can do custom orders for you, and their prices are very reasonable. plus, their stuff is high-quality; better than Hasbro's original labels.
Another note: if you treat your transformers as models, you can't go wrong. Go to www.starshipmodeler.com for lots of good advice on kitbashing (they even have mecha models!)
and part 3
Okay, time for yet another riveting installment!
Today's subject: Plastic Welder, and its many uses.
Now, the reason I so widely recommend Devcon plastic welder is that unlike epoxy, it doesn't get as brittle: it is virtually liquid plastic. It also has incredible holding power, and if used correctly, can be built-up into virtually any shape that you want. The last one is a little tricky, as the stuff is a gel-like mass when first mixed. The trick is to apply it to plastic model sprue or another "base" surface that will serve as the 'core' of the piece you are trying to make. ( A word of warning: although it doesn't really matter on small parts, plastic welder can become very hot during the curing process, especially on large applications. Your best bet in any event is to apply it in several layers, rather than in one huge glob.)
Although you can't really use it to cast parts, like you can resin, plastic welder is incredibly strong. It's best uses are when you need to fasten high -strength parts like legs, arms, torsos and so forth. It truly shines when you have to fasten transform joints in areas that don't have a lot of attachment surface, and makes for bonds that can only be broken by a sledgehammer (well, not LITERALLY, but you get the point!) I have even used it to fashion my own joints from scratch, although it takes a lot of practice, not to mention trial and error.
A particular trick I use when utilizing the stuff is to make a "dam" of masking tape for the area you want to work on, then apply the plastic welder and let it cure in several layers. Then when the bonder is cured, remove the tape, and presto! A little sanding, and you're good to go!
On that note, a little advice: Plastic welder sets in 5 minutes and cures in 15 ( it's speed is another boon.) But it reaches full strength in 24 hours. Keep this in mind for two reasons:
1) any pieces requiring high-strength will require the full cure time, and:
2) The material is easier to sand , cut and otherwise work before it fully cures, preferably within the first 10 to 15 minutes of it's initial curing.
Well, That's all for now. I'll be back soon to share more with everyone! Keep coming back, and if you have a great idea or need some advice, just post here and I'll read it! Keep up the kit-bashing everyone!
EDIT: I know that I give out a lot of advice on this topic, and many of you TFans out there are wondering "yeah, well if he's so good, why doesn't he post some pics?" I'm hoping to have some pictures of my work to share with all of you soon. (that is, as soon as my friend decides to finally lend me his digital camera!)
Okay, time for yet another riveting installment!
Today's subject: Plastic Welder, and its many uses.
Now, the reason I so widely recommend Devcon plastic welder is that unlike epoxy, it doesn't get as brittle: it is virtually liquid plastic. It also has incredible holding power, and if used correctly, can be built-up into virtually any shape that you want. The last one is a little tricky, as the stuff is a gel-like mass when first mixed. The trick is to apply it to plastic model sprue or another "base" surface that will serve as the 'core' of the piece you are trying to make. ( A word of warning: although it doesn't really matter on small parts, plastic welder can become very hot during the curing process, especially on large applications. Your best bet in any event is to apply it in several layers, rather than in one huge glob.)
Although you can't really use it to cast parts, like you can resin, plastic welder is incredibly strong. It's best uses are when you need to fasten high -strength parts like legs, arms, torsos and so forth. It truly shines when you have to fasten transform joints in areas that don't have a lot of attachment surface, and makes for bonds that can only be broken by a sledgehammer (well, not LITERALLY, but you get the point!) I have even used it to fashion my own joints from scratch, although it takes a lot of practice, not to mention trial and error.
A particular trick I use when utilizing the stuff is to make a "dam" of masking tape for the area you want to work on, then apply the plastic welder and let it cure in several layers. Then when the bonder is cured, remove the tape, and presto! A little sanding, and you're good to go!
On that note, a little advice: Plastic welder sets in 5 minutes and cures in 15 ( it's speed is another boon.) But it reaches full strength in 24 hours. Keep this in mind for two reasons:
1) any pieces requiring high-strength will require the full cure time, and:
2) The material is easier to sand , cut and otherwise work before it fully cures, preferably within the first 10 to 15 minutes of it's initial curing.
Well, That's all for now. I'll be back soon to share more with everyone! Keep coming back, and if you have a great idea or need some advice, just post here and I'll read it! Keep up the kit-bashing everyone!
EDIT: I know that I give out a lot of advice on this topic, and many of you TFans out there are wondering "yeah, well if he's so good, why doesn't he post some pics?" I'm hoping to have some pictures of my work to share with all of you soon. (that is, as soon as my friend decides to finally lend me his digital camera!)
And some other tips I downloaded from this site and elsewhere (by various)
** Removing paint.
It depends on the type of paint, and if the part is plastic or die-cast:
-- If it's plastic (unless it's clear plastic), i'd use regular paint thinner. DON"T use paint thinner or oven cleaner on clear plastic- it's suicide.
-- For die cast, either try paint thinner or easy-off oven cleaner.
-- In the case of clear plastic, try 90% rubbing alcohol.
Hope this helps!
-J/K.
** Paint his eyes chrome silver, then over- paint that with a mix of Tamiya turn-signal yellow and stoplight red (both transparent color, if you can't find them, just use transparent yellow and red mixed). This will give you a set of eyes that catch all sorts of light for that "evil as all hell" look!
** Those heat-stamped Autobot symbols we saw during Robots in Disguise, are they removable, and if so, how? I once read -- I believe on bwtf -- that they could easily be rubbed off with hoth water, but I tried and failed.
Try rubbing alcohol; I would use 90% grade. It should take it off, as long as you don't get it on any other painted areas that you want to save. In the event that fails, use Oxy pads.
** MP Trailer
By the way, Junkers; for a box for the trailer, go to your nearest Home Depot and look in the Hardware section. They have a black plastic storage unit for little parts and screws that if you bought a pair, removed the little sliding drawers and cut them down a bit, would make an awesome box for the trailer. (it's already in two parts, so your only problem would be finding a floorplate , and hinging it to the halves.) Use the underside "tackle"(wheels and suspension) from a 1/24 scale toy tractor trailer, and you're good to go! By the way, for customizations, I use a two part adhesive called Plastic Bonder. It's sold at Wal-mart, in the Hardware section for $2.50. It's a lot stronger than epoxy, and far less brittle. it's practically liquid plastic! And the best part is, it cures in 15 minutes, although it gets a bit hot. I do a lot of custom work myself (hope to post photos soon!), and I learned these lessons the hard way. Hope I've been of some help yuo you and everyone else. Any questions about customizations, give me a yell; I'll see if I can help
** Loose joints:
Just coat with a thin layer of Devcon plastic Welder, then sand smooth when it dries and presto!
(alternative: Nail polish)
** Possible alternative to painting:
Most of the parts that are black are not painted but dipped in die so that the plastic actually absorbs the color.....all of the plastic parts that have been died are now jet black with a perfect finish so it looks like the plastic is actually Black!!! This is not the same as painting it as the color does not come off and it looks dead-on like the original!!
** More metallic look?
Here's what I recommend...take off the clear parts, and tape off the back window...Gloss spray the car parts, but NOT the robot parts...let it dry for an hour or two in room temperature before you touch them....I recommend using Krylon Fusion Crysal Clear gloss coat.
** And a little more info (not yet ordered)
1) wash the plastic with a mild detergent before painting it. This removes the mold release agent from it. (mold release is an oily substance they shoot into the molds for the toy before molding, so the plastic will come out of the mold easily.) but the oil interferes with paint, and can cause an awesome paint job to crack.
2) scuff-sand any metal parts, and coat with either grey or white primer. (unless you plan on using Krylon "Fusion" paint).
3) to remove the bar for the mouthpiece, work the left ear loose, while holding the right ear.
4) If you plan on diassembling prime, keep the screws in a plastic cup. (screws are notorious for getting lost)
5) for armor, contact a local plastic supply house for polystyrene (the same plastic most model kits are made out of)
for more info on kitbashing and modelbuilding in general go to:
http//www.starshipmodeler.com
** Repairing damaged windows
Toothpaste.
Seriously, it's an old modeler’s trick: toothpaste contains a fine abrasive, which acts to polish the stains off of your teeth. You see, glass/transparent plastic is only clear because the surface allows light to pass through it. it's called the refractive index. When something is scratched, it increases the refractive index for that section of glass or plastic. By polishing it out, the R. I. is reduced. In other words, the toothpaste polished out the scratch. Try it: all that will happen if it doesn't work is that your transformer will smell minty! Keep in mind: polish as hard as you can w/o stressing the plastic too
** Removing paint.
It depends on the type of paint, and if the part is plastic or die-cast:
-- If it's plastic (unless it's clear plastic), i'd use regular paint thinner. DON"T use paint thinner or oven cleaner on clear plastic- it's suicide.
-- For die cast, either try paint thinner or easy-off oven cleaner.
-- In the case of clear plastic, try 90% rubbing alcohol.
Hope this helps!
-J/K.
** Paint his eyes chrome silver, then over- paint that with a mix of Tamiya turn-signal yellow and stoplight red (both transparent color, if you can't find them, just use transparent yellow and red mixed). This will give you a set of eyes that catch all sorts of light for that "evil as all hell" look!
** Those heat-stamped Autobot symbols we saw during Robots in Disguise, are they removable, and if so, how? I once read -- I believe on bwtf -- that they could easily be rubbed off with hoth water, but I tried and failed.
Try rubbing alcohol; I would use 90% grade. It should take it off, as long as you don't get it on any other painted areas that you want to save. In the event that fails, use Oxy pads.
** MP Trailer
By the way, Junkers; for a box for the trailer, go to your nearest Home Depot and look in the Hardware section. They have a black plastic storage unit for little parts and screws that if you bought a pair, removed the little sliding drawers and cut them down a bit, would make an awesome box for the trailer. (it's already in two parts, so your only problem would be finding a floorplate , and hinging it to the halves.) Use the underside "tackle"(wheels and suspension) from a 1/24 scale toy tractor trailer, and you're good to go! By the way, for customizations, I use a two part adhesive called Plastic Bonder. It's sold at Wal-mart, in the Hardware section for $2.50. It's a lot stronger than epoxy, and far less brittle. it's practically liquid plastic! And the best part is, it cures in 15 minutes, although it gets a bit hot. I do a lot of custom work myself (hope to post photos soon!), and I learned these lessons the hard way. Hope I've been of some help yuo you and everyone else. Any questions about customizations, give me a yell; I'll see if I can help
** Loose joints:
Just coat with a thin layer of Devcon plastic Welder, then sand smooth when it dries and presto!
(alternative: Nail polish)
** Possible alternative to painting:
Most of the parts that are black are not painted but dipped in die so that the plastic actually absorbs the color.....all of the plastic parts that have been died are now jet black with a perfect finish so it looks like the plastic is actually Black!!! This is not the same as painting it as the color does not come off and it looks dead-on like the original!!
** More metallic look?
Here's what I recommend...take off the clear parts, and tape off the back window...Gloss spray the car parts, but NOT the robot parts...let it dry for an hour or two in room temperature before you touch them....I recommend using Krylon Fusion Crysal Clear gloss coat.
** And a little more info (not yet ordered)
1) wash the plastic with a mild detergent before painting it. This removes the mold release agent from it. (mold release is an oily substance they shoot into the molds for the toy before molding, so the plastic will come out of the mold easily.) but the oil interferes with paint, and can cause an awesome paint job to crack.
2) scuff-sand any metal parts, and coat with either grey or white primer. (unless you plan on using Krylon "Fusion" paint).
3) to remove the bar for the mouthpiece, work the left ear loose, while holding the right ear.
4) If you plan on diassembling prime, keep the screws in a plastic cup. (screws are notorious for getting lost)
5) for armor, contact a local plastic supply house for polystyrene (the same plastic most model kits are made out of)
for more info on kitbashing and modelbuilding in general go to:
http//www.starshipmodeler.com
** Repairing damaged windows
Toothpaste.
Seriously, it's an old modeler’s trick: toothpaste contains a fine abrasive, which acts to polish the stains off of your teeth. You see, glass/transparent plastic is only clear because the surface allows light to pass through it. it's called the refractive index. When something is scratched, it increases the refractive index for that section of glass or plastic. By polishing it out, the R. I. is reduced. In other words, the toothpaste polished out the scratch. Try it: all that will happen if it doesn't work is that your transformer will smell minty! Keep in mind: polish as hard as you can w/o stressing the plastic too
Man that makes my kitbash guide look really undetailed but you`ve probably been doing this alot longer than I have. After all I only started back at the begining of August w/ my Bumblebee.
25 years of modelbuilding helps. 
BTW, thanks rawhide! This helps out the rest of TFans, and helps me because i didn't have this stored on disk!
BTW, thanks rawhide! This helps out the rest of TFans, and helps me because i didn't have this stored on disk!
You really should pin this at the top so it doesn`t get lost!
I can't, but maybe a mod could...
Can a mod please pin this?
Can a mod please pin this?
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Nov 24 2004, 07:58 PM)
BTW, thanks rawhide! This helps out the rest of TFans, and helps me because i didn't have this stored on disk!
No problem. Had it fortunately still on the computer at work so it was very easy to post it.
Was glad to help, because I missed the idiots guide. Look forward to future tips.
Cool!
Okay, I think it's high time for a new installment.....
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing: Part 4- revenge of the sith-er, I mean, direct scratchbuilding. (heh, heh. freudian slip there....)
Seriously, though, there will be times in kitbashing where there's no appropriate robot or vehicle to work from, nobody's done it before, and you're out in the cold by yourself trying to figure out exactly how the hell you're supposed to make the required parts, or the whole damned thing. You don't have Takara's tools, time, supplies, and most importantly, budget. plus, you're not a mechanical engineer.
So how do you do it?
First off, the best way to solve a problem is to state exactly what the problem is. Most people get confused in scratchbuilding because they have no idea WHAT they need to build. Example: Devastator has a plate connecting his legs to his body. You want him articulated, but there's no appropriate robot to take the atriculation from. How do you do it?
Answer: build a waist unit that retains the connectors for the legs and body, and incorporates a set of poseable thighs.
That answer seems a little obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people freeze when presented with similar challenges. Trying to determine exactly what you need is going to be the first major step in scratchbuilding. But that's only one part of the battle...
Next, you have to determine HOW you're going to build it. Returning to Devastator ( I know someone already did a refit for his legs, so we're going to use an example from my masterpiece Devastator project):
Problem:The requirement for Devastator is that he have as few removeable gestalt components as possible. (head, chest shield, thighs and lower arms don't come off for transform back into component constructicons.) Devastator's head has to fold up into Hook's chest, but the chest of the robot you have is solid. Plus, if you cut into it, it will lose all structural integrity and fall apart the moment you transform it. The sides won't hold up, and the arm-slide mechanism for Hook takes up the space where devastator's head would be stored. How do you go about building it?
Answer: remove the entire torso, and then cut what's needed from it, retaining as much of the original superstructure as you can. Use ABS plastic and Devcon Plastic Bonder to reinforce the torso, rebuilding the sides if necessary. Since Devastator's head slants forwards at the top, and Hook's arm-slide mechanism is placed fairly close to the top of his torso, and Devastator's head has to be back a little in order to be positioned as close to center on his shoulders as possible, You should be able to just clear the arm-sliders with the head in place. You may also want to consider the possibility of perhaps making the arms part of Devastator's head. in any event, the swivel for his head should allow it to clear the shoulders adequately.
Now for the most terrifying thing imaginable; scratchbuilding the WHOLE DAMN THING. This one can petrify most people into submission. You see, most folks see the whole project at once, and this is what scares them; the entire rtinue of moving parts confuses them, and what pepole don't understand frightens them. But the truth be told, it's far easier than you think...
Consider plastic model kits. The instructions for them break down complicated assemblies into smaller, simpler, easier to understand ones. If you disassemble a transformer, you'll see that even the most complicated transform mechanism is made up of smaller, simpler units. As Henry David Thoreau said; "Simplify, simplify, simplify."
The trick is: break the assembly down into smaller, simpler units. Define what you need to build, and write out exactly how you plan on doing it. All you have to do then is follow your plan.(Most likely, it won't go EXACTLY as you envision it, but having a plan is essential nonetheless.)Then, assemble the components into their larger superstructures, allowing for any adjustments to make them fit. You'll find that once you do this, things will go a lot easier for you.
The last piece of advice I can give you on this is; Don't get discouraged if something doesn't work out quite the way you envision it. More often than not, the things we build are not always going to be as we envision them. And it's not because we're all a bunch of dumbasses; it's because as human beings, we can't see all the pontnential flaws, parts conflicts, and difficulties all at once like a computer can. we're analytical beings, but we're not designed to be SuperComputers that can perform the functions of CADCAM, AUTOCAD and CNC machining.
In short, allow yourself to make mistakes. It's how we LEARN. And that doesn't make you a DUMBASS: it's what makes you HUMAN.
Well, that's all I can think of for this installment. As always, if anyone has their own entries to post here, please feel more than welcome to do so. And I'll also answer as best I can any questions regarding kitbashing or scratchbuilding, or someone else here can as well if I'm, not around.
So, until next time, Good luck with your projects, and may Primus smile upon all our efforts! (Hey, it sound better that "may the Force be with you!" Plus, I won't get sued by George Lucas!)
Okay, I think it's high time for a new installment.....
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing: Part 4- revenge of the sith-er, I mean, direct scratchbuilding. (heh, heh. freudian slip there....)
Seriously, though, there will be times in kitbashing where there's no appropriate robot or vehicle to work from, nobody's done it before, and you're out in the cold by yourself trying to figure out exactly how the hell you're supposed to make the required parts, or the whole damned thing. You don't have Takara's tools, time, supplies, and most importantly, budget. plus, you're not a mechanical engineer.
So how do you do it?
First off, the best way to solve a problem is to state exactly what the problem is. Most people get confused in scratchbuilding because they have no idea WHAT they need to build. Example: Devastator has a plate connecting his legs to his body. You want him articulated, but there's no appropriate robot to take the atriculation from. How do you do it?
Answer: build a waist unit that retains the connectors for the legs and body, and incorporates a set of poseable thighs.
That answer seems a little obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people freeze when presented with similar challenges. Trying to determine exactly what you need is going to be the first major step in scratchbuilding. But that's only one part of the battle...
Next, you have to determine HOW you're going to build it. Returning to Devastator ( I know someone already did a refit for his legs, so we're going to use an example from my masterpiece Devastator project):
Problem:The requirement for Devastator is that he have as few removeable gestalt components as possible. (head, chest shield, thighs and lower arms don't come off for transform back into component constructicons.) Devastator's head has to fold up into Hook's chest, but the chest of the robot you have is solid. Plus, if you cut into it, it will lose all structural integrity and fall apart the moment you transform it. The sides won't hold up, and the arm-slide mechanism for Hook takes up the space where devastator's head would be stored. How do you go about building it?
Answer: remove the entire torso, and then cut what's needed from it, retaining as much of the original superstructure as you can. Use ABS plastic and Devcon Plastic Bonder to reinforce the torso, rebuilding the sides if necessary. Since Devastator's head slants forwards at the top, and Hook's arm-slide mechanism is placed fairly close to the top of his torso, and Devastator's head has to be back a little in order to be positioned as close to center on his shoulders as possible, You should be able to just clear the arm-sliders with the head in place. You may also want to consider the possibility of perhaps making the arms part of Devastator's head. in any event, the swivel for his head should allow it to clear the shoulders adequately.
Now for the most terrifying thing imaginable; scratchbuilding the WHOLE DAMN THING. This one can petrify most people into submission. You see, most folks see the whole project at once, and this is what scares them; the entire rtinue of moving parts confuses them, and what pepole don't understand frightens them. But the truth be told, it's far easier than you think...
Consider plastic model kits. The instructions for them break down complicated assemblies into smaller, simpler, easier to understand ones. If you disassemble a transformer, you'll see that even the most complicated transform mechanism is made up of smaller, simpler units. As Henry David Thoreau said; "Simplify, simplify, simplify."
The trick is: break the assembly down into smaller, simpler units. Define what you need to build, and write out exactly how you plan on doing it. All you have to do then is follow your plan.(Most likely, it won't go EXACTLY as you envision it, but having a plan is essential nonetheless.)Then, assemble the components into their larger superstructures, allowing for any adjustments to make them fit. You'll find that once you do this, things will go a lot easier for you.
The last piece of advice I can give you on this is; Don't get discouraged if something doesn't work out quite the way you envision it. More often than not, the things we build are not always going to be as we envision them. And it's not because we're all a bunch of dumbasses; it's because as human beings, we can't see all the pontnential flaws, parts conflicts, and difficulties all at once like a computer can. we're analytical beings, but we're not designed to be SuperComputers that can perform the functions of CADCAM, AUTOCAD and CNC machining.
In short, allow yourself to make mistakes. It's how we LEARN. And that doesn't make you a DUMBASS: it's what makes you HUMAN.
Well, that's all I can think of for this installment. As always, if anyone has their own entries to post here, please feel more than welcome to do so. And I'll also answer as best I can any questions regarding kitbashing or scratchbuilding, or someone else here can as well if I'm, not around.
So, until next time, Good luck with your projects, and may Primus smile upon all our efforts! (Hey, it sound better that "may the Force be with you!" Plus, I won't get sued by George Lucas!
)
I doubt G.L. even has any interest in our web site but that did sound more TF lore than the other one any way. I can say from expeirience that you are right the first time I went to put the arms on my Rodimus it was a dissaster they were way too low in bot mode and didn`t fit in truck mode they kind of stuck out to the sides. So I went back to the drawing board so to speak I kind of rethought it in my head then looked at him from every angle to see if it would work using the arms from Sideswipe and conecting them where the old hole for the car body screw was on Smokescreen and it did. Then I asked V.P. for advise on the wheels you know how to remove and replace them got his advise used it and bam every thing fit. Unfortunately after buying my Alt. Jazz and paying bills I didn`t have enough for the hinges I need for the cap but there`s always next week. 
Here is what I mean.
Here is what I mean.
Hey, I was wondering if you could help me out with something.
I have an idea for a Soundwave made from a portable CD player. I have most of his trasnformation worked out in my head and the parts I'm going to use, including having the circular piece that holds the CD were his abs are. What I wanted to include in that was a CD that transforms into Lazerbeak.
For Soundwave, I don't see any problems. I'll just cut up a CD player, use the appropriate parts from other transformers, do some gluing, some painting, and he's done. But with Lazerbeak, I'm going to have to build the whole thing from scratch, down to cutting out the pieces I'll need. See, I plan on layering him with three sheets, one with the joints, and the other two sandwiching the joint sheet. I already have Lazerbeak's transformation worked out, but no clue how to go about it.
See, I don't know how to go about making the joints. They're all hinge joints, and I don't know how to make that on my own. Worse, they have to be thin, since I'm going for accuracy where size is concerned(can't have the CD too thick). Have you got any ideas, or tips, suggestions, or anything else you could offer me?
I have an idea for a Soundwave made from a portable CD player. I have most of his trasnformation worked out in my head and the parts I'm going to use, including having the circular piece that holds the CD were his abs are. What I wanted to include in that was a CD that transforms into Lazerbeak.
For Soundwave, I don't see any problems. I'll just cut up a CD player, use the appropriate parts from other transformers, do some gluing, some painting, and he's done. But with Lazerbeak, I'm going to have to build the whole thing from scratch, down to cutting out the pieces I'll need. See, I plan on layering him with three sheets, one with the joints, and the other two sandwiching the joint sheet. I already have Lazerbeak's transformation worked out, but no clue how to go about it.
See, I don't know how to go about making the joints. They're all hinge joints, and I don't know how to make that on my own. Worse, they have to be thin, since I'm going for accuracy where size is concerned(can't have the CD too thick). Have you got any ideas, or tips, suggestions, or anything else you could offer me?
I can help on this. No problem:
you idea of making laserbeak into a cd is rather interesting and innovative. i suggest that since the construction is going to be three layers, and that it will have some thickness to it, use pop-rivets for the joints. They come in differents lengths, and i would suggest getting the shortest length they have.
If pop rivets aren't an option for you, i can also suggest that you try a 'slip-pin' assembly. This involves drilling a hole in the piece you wish to fit, then gluing a pin into the other piece ajacent to it, and slipping the two together. It's kind of like the way gundam model joints are done; post-in-hole construction. Pressure would keep the assembly together, but it could slip apart for painting and other stuff.
i'll leave you to decide which assembly would work the best for you. if anyone else has any ideas for optimus 3000, by all means post them!!
you idea of making laserbeak into a cd is rather interesting and innovative. i suggest that since the construction is going to be three layers, and that it will have some thickness to it, use pop-rivets for the joints. They come in differents lengths, and i would suggest getting the shortest length they have.
If pop rivets aren't an option for you, i can also suggest that you try a 'slip-pin' assembly. This involves drilling a hole in the piece you wish to fit, then gluing a pin into the other piece ajacent to it, and slipping the two together. It's kind of like the way gundam model joints are done; post-in-hole construction. Pressure would keep the assembly together, but it could slip apart for painting and other stuff.
i'll leave you to decide which assembly would work the best for you. if anyone else has any ideas for optimus 3000, by all means post them!!
QUOTE (Rodimus VTS @ Dec 3 2004, 10:33 PM)
I doubt G.L. even has any interest in our web site but that did sound more TF lore than the other one any way. I can say from expeirience that you are right the first time I went to put the arms on my Rodimus it was a dissaster they were way too low in bot mode and didn`t fit in truck mode they kind of stuck out to the sides. So I went back to the drawing board so to speak I kind of rethought it in my head then looked at him from every angle to see if it would work using the arms from Sideswipe and conecting them where the old hole for the car body screw was on Smokescreen and it did. Then I asked V.P. for advise on the wheels you know how to remove and replace them got his advise used it and bam every thing fit. Unfortunately after buying my Alt. Jazz and paying bills I didn`t have enough for the hinges I need for the cap but there`s always next week.
Here is what I mean.
Here is what I mean.
Have you considered trying to manufacture the hinges yourself? All a hinge consists of is a rod that is placed inside a tube that is created from parts contributed by both parts to be joined. Take a look at a door hinge and you'll see what i mean. To make a hinge for you project, get a length of metal rod from a wire coathanger, and the tube you can get really cheap from a hobby shop. (Plastruct section) cut the tuibe into an even numbered amount of smaller parts, then line them up along the hinge line using the rod as a guide. Then glue the parts into place. repeat this for the other side, then when both sides are ste, slip the rod in to join them, and trim the excess rod off. (Note; make sure that you leave enough space between the tube parts for their corresponding 'neighbors' to fit in.0
i have a question,,i recentally bought a KO optimal optimus,,and i plan to repaint him into a magnus prime,,i have a spray gloss (white) that i could use,,,after i take it apart,,should i use it?
I would definitely use it then. But before you take him apart, i would wash optimal optimus in dish detergent and water first, to remove the mold release. in the case of knock-offs, this is especially important, since they tend to use a lot more mold release than has/tak.
Also, you may wish to consider using krylon Fusion spray paint, since it bonds to the plastic and is highly resistant to chipping. In fact, this is a great lead in to my next installment.....
Also, you may wish to consider using krylon Fusion spray paint, since it bonds to the plastic and is highly resistant to chipping. In fact, this is a great lead in to my next installment.....
Okay, time for...um...part 4.5! yup...that works...
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing part 4.5: Fusion spray paint.
Since the guide was started (and then restarted), I've finally had the unique opportunuty to finally use krylon's fusion spray paint, particularly on my silverstreak/prowl conversion. what I found out during the process was quite, um, interesting. That's
First off, they recommend that you wipe any new unpainted surface with paint thinner. One word: DON'T!!! paint thinner eats plastic, particularly styrene (model plastic). The chemical in Fusion that makes it fuse to plastic is xylene ( pronounced " Zigh-Leen"), which is also the principal solvent in model cement. While this makes for a pretty durable paint, it also means that you should be careful about letting drips or runs happen on your stuff, especially if you're using model parts in it.
Secondly, if you try using it like regular spray paint, small spots are going to form on the surface of the plastic. This is where the paint pulls away from certain areas. That is why it's doubly important that the project you're working on is clean of ANYTHING that could screw-up paint adhesion. Also, the key word here is LAYERS. Spray misty coats on, letting the color "build', rather than trying to get it all in one shot. Krylon recommends about 30 seconds between layer; from my experience, I would give it at least a couple of minutes between coats. And it also bears mentioning that krylon recommends that after 24 hours, you wait a week before recoating. I would agree with that, since anything earlier risks the paint lifting from the model.
Finally, make sure that any clear plastic pieces on the model are either removed or masked THOROUGHLY. ( I learned this one the hard way!) Krylon Fusion is an absolute Starscream to get off of clear plastic. I spent 3 hours polishing Prowl's windshield with toothpaste before I got it back to "clear' again!
All in all, I found that once you get used to the way Fusion works, it's actually a pretty durable and long-lasting coating for your models and conversions. But keep in mind: be CAREFUL with the stuff.
Okay, that should just about cover my take on Fusion. But I invite any other kitbashers out there to post their recommendations and/or experiences with fusion here, as mine are somewhat limited. Until next time, good luck to everyone's projects, and if you need advice or have a suggestion, please feel free to post! See ya!
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing part 4.5: Fusion spray paint.
Since the guide was started (and then restarted), I've finally had the unique opportunuty to finally use krylon's fusion spray paint, particularly on my silverstreak/prowl conversion. what I found out during the process was quite, um, interesting. That's
First off, they recommend that you wipe any new unpainted surface with paint thinner. One word: DON'T!!! paint thinner eats plastic, particularly styrene (model plastic). The chemical in Fusion that makes it fuse to plastic is xylene ( pronounced " Zigh-Leen"), which is also the principal solvent in model cement. While this makes for a pretty durable paint, it also means that you should be careful about letting drips or runs happen on your stuff, especially if you're using model parts in it.
Secondly, if you try using it like regular spray paint, small spots are going to form on the surface of the plastic. This is where the paint pulls away from certain areas. That is why it's doubly important that the project you're working on is clean of ANYTHING that could screw-up paint adhesion. Also, the key word here is LAYERS. Spray misty coats on, letting the color "build', rather than trying to get it all in one shot. Krylon recommends about 30 seconds between layer; from my experience, I would give it at least a couple of minutes between coats. And it also bears mentioning that krylon recommends that after 24 hours, you wait a week before recoating. I would agree with that, since anything earlier risks the paint lifting from the model.
Finally, make sure that any clear plastic pieces on the model are either removed or masked THOROUGHLY. ( I learned this one the hard way!) Krylon Fusion is an absolute Starscream to get off of clear plastic. I spent 3 hours polishing Prowl's windshield with toothpaste before I got it back to "clear' again!
All in all, I found that once you get used to the way Fusion works, it's actually a pretty durable and long-lasting coating for your models and conversions. But keep in mind: be CAREFUL with the stuff.
Okay, that should just about cover my take on Fusion. But I invite any other kitbashers out there to post their recommendations and/or experiences with fusion here, as mine are somewhat limited. Until next time, good luck to everyone's projects, and if you need advice or have a suggestion, please feel free to post! See ya!
Concerning DLP's project:
First off: sculpey is too brittle for holding any sort of joint. It's not intended for structural support. most modelers use heavy wire, like coat hanger wire, for the supporting skeleton. i would advise you use a combination of coathanger wire, and Devcon Plastic bonder. Plastic bonder is more than capable of holding up to joint stresses (i've used it for that in custom projects before), and is compatible with metal.
First off: sculpey is too brittle for holding any sort of joint. It's not intended for structural support. most modelers use heavy wire, like coat hanger wire, for the supporting skeleton. i would advise you use a combination of coathanger wire, and Devcon Plastic bonder. Plastic bonder is more than capable of holding up to joint stresses (i've used it for that in custom projects before), and is compatible with metal.
ok thanks for the help,,,,i will hopefully start on it later on today if i can get a chance to 
No problem, bro. Good luck!
okay, i think i want to touch upon a subject here in kitbashing that i feel is important:
Safety.
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing :Special topic-Safety.
To start, I wanted to talk about this because I feel that some kitbashers and scratchbuilders don't really give this subject much thought. I want to touch upon it because in my tenure of kitbashing, I gained several scars and my fair share of lung-damage from the "stupidity of my youth."
First of all, all of this is common sense, but it bears mentioning: when using exacto knives, dremel tools, and other tools that can cut, WATCH YOUR HANDS!!! It is all too easy, especially with the power tools, to slip and end up giving yourself a nastly little reminder of your current project. Keep in mind that the exacto knives are SURGICALLY sharp, and slice through flesh with almost no effort. if you're using one, and you're cutting through a tough part, DON'T press as hard as you can.instead, take your time with it. otherwise, the blade will either cut right through the part AND your fingers, or it will skip out of the cut channel, and end up gouging YOU. In fact, for heavy work, I STRONGLY recommend a heavy pair of work gloves.
Secondly, WEAR PROTECTION FOR YOUR EYES WHEN USING POWER TOOLS! I almost lost an eye because one of my dremel tool's cutting wheels shattered in my face. It was only because I was wearing safety glasses that I wasn't permanently maimed. I CANNOT stress the importance of this ENOUGH. Your eyes are irreplaceable, and VITAL to so many other things besides kitbashing.
Third, WHEN WORKING WITH ANY SORT OF CHEMICALS, WHETHER THEY BE PAINTS, GLUES OR CLEANERS ANS SOLVENTS, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VETILLATION!!!
I learned this the hard way, as I used to spray my work indoors on a regular basis. now my lungs bother me with periods of bronchitis, asthma attacks, and Lord knows if I will end up with lung cancer or emphysema at some point in the future. So I'm PLEADING with the rest of you out there: even a SMALL amount of exposure can be more than enough to at the very least sensitize you to the chemical, and at worst give you cancer. So when working with these chemicals, make sure that:
1) you have adequate ventillation
2) you wear respiratory protection for yourself
3) you cover your hands (gloves) if you plan on working closely with these substances
4) if you get anything on you, WASH IT OFF IMMEDIATELY!! and;
5) if you get dizzy, nauseous, or rapid heartbeat, stop what your doing and get IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION!!!
Keep in mind throughout all of this; you want to enjoy your hobby, not have it be the end of you. hopefully, these tips wil help everyone here keep from doing some of the same stupid crap I used to.
-WraithVerge
Safety.
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing :Special topic-Safety.
To start, I wanted to talk about this because I feel that some kitbashers and scratchbuilders don't really give this subject much thought. I want to touch upon it because in my tenure of kitbashing, I gained several scars and my fair share of lung-damage from the "stupidity of my youth."
First of all, all of this is common sense, but it bears mentioning: when using exacto knives, dremel tools, and other tools that can cut, WATCH YOUR HANDS!!! It is all too easy, especially with the power tools, to slip and end up giving yourself a nastly little reminder of your current project. Keep in mind that the exacto knives are SURGICALLY sharp, and slice through flesh with almost no effort. if you're using one, and you're cutting through a tough part, DON'T press as hard as you can.instead, take your time with it. otherwise, the blade will either cut right through the part AND your fingers, or it will skip out of the cut channel, and end up gouging YOU. In fact, for heavy work, I STRONGLY recommend a heavy pair of work gloves.
Secondly, WEAR PROTECTION FOR YOUR EYES WHEN USING POWER TOOLS! I almost lost an eye because one of my dremel tool's cutting wheels shattered in my face. It was only because I was wearing safety glasses that I wasn't permanently maimed. I CANNOT stress the importance of this ENOUGH. Your eyes are irreplaceable, and VITAL to so many other things besides kitbashing.
Third, WHEN WORKING WITH ANY SORT OF CHEMICALS, WHETHER THEY BE PAINTS, GLUES OR CLEANERS ANS SOLVENTS, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ADEQUATE VETILLATION!!!
I learned this the hard way, as I used to spray my work indoors on a regular basis. now my lungs bother me with periods of bronchitis, asthma attacks, and Lord knows if I will end up with lung cancer or emphysema at some point in the future. So I'm PLEADING with the rest of you out there: even a SMALL amount of exposure can be more than enough to at the very least sensitize you to the chemical, and at worst give you cancer. So when working with these chemicals, make sure that:
1) you have adequate ventillation
2) you wear respiratory protection for yourself
3) you cover your hands (gloves) if you plan on working closely with these substances
4) if you get anything on you, WASH IT OFF IMMEDIATELY!! and;
5) if you get dizzy, nauseous, or rapid heartbeat, stop what your doing and get IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION!!!
Keep in mind throughout all of this; you want to enjoy your hobby, not have it be the end of you. hopefully, these tips wil help everyone here keep from doing some of the same stupid crap I used to.
-WraithVerge
I'm working with my Alternators and want to know - what is the best glue to use with them?
I personally would recommend Devcon plastic welder, as it is a lot stronger and far more resillient than even the current run of epoxies on the market. Super glues tend to be too brittle, and contact cement is a royal pain to work with.
Hey W.V. I`m Rodimu VTS I`m just using my little bro`s log in I`m kind of locked out `cause I changed isp`s the other day and now I can`t email TFans or receive the revalidation email do you have any suggestions?
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Dec 9 2004, 08:20 AM)
I personally would recommend Devcon plastic welder, as it is a lot stronger and far more resillient than even the current run of epoxies on the market. Super glues tend to be too brittle, and contact cement is a royal pain to work with.
Thanks! Where is this available?
Hey WV I`m back thanks to SFC for the manual revaidation.I would also like to touch on safety I work in a warehouse and we are issued special gloves for when we are cutting they are made of a kevlar knit. I`m sure that there is some web site out there for safety supplies. I recomend the kevlar knit gloves because they have saved my fingers numerous times. They are made from the same material as the bullet proof vests the police wear. Now I`m not sating they`ll stop bullets they`re not that thick but they will keep your knives out of your skin.
QUOTE (LoneDrifter @ Dec 9 2004, 10:53 PM)
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Dec 9 2004, 08:20 AM)
I personally would recommend Devcon plastic welder, as it is a lot stronger and far more resillient than even the current run of epoxies on the market. Super glues tend to be too brittle, and contact cement is a royal pain to work with.
Thanks! Where is this available?
Wal-mart usually carries it, but if you live in an area that doesn't have a wal-mart, then try your local hardware store.
QUOTE (Rodimus VTS @ Dec 10 2004, 02:42 PM)
Hey WV I`m back thanks to SFC for the manual revaidation.I would also like to touch on safety I work in a warehouse and we are issued special gloves for when we are cutting they are made of a kevlar knit. I`m sure that there is some web site out there for safety supplies. I recomend the kevlar knit gloves because they have saved my fingers numerous times. They are made from the same material as the bullet proof vests the police wear. Now I`m not sating they`ll stop bullets they`re not that thick but they will keep your knives out of your skin.
I've heard of those types of gloves. Thanks for the info, Rodimus. BTW, for working with chemicals, i've been told that there's a type of neoprene glove out there that is excellent for protection against most chemicals today. i'll have to look into it a bit further.
Alright....I think it's time for yet another riveting installment...
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 5: Plastics
In kitbashing or scratchbuilding, your end result is only as good as the materials you plan on using in your projects. For most of us, we tend to use whatever is readily available to us in the stores. But in this installment, I'd like to open everyone's eyes to the worldfull of readily-available and free (or at least REALLY cheap!) plastics at hand.
First off, most of us are aware of the "sheet styrene" that most hobby shops sell at 3-4 dollars a pack. While this is usefull for most projects, the form it comes in, let alone the cost, is sometimes more than many modelers are willing to shell out in a single trip. Needless to say, this slows down many projects to a crawl.
To remedy this, I recommend something I've heard of in recent years; plastic supply houses. They supply some of the smaller-scale businesses with their plastic needs. (like small shops, factories and what not.) They're found in the yellow pages, and I've heard that they ofter have reasonable prices for their wares. Additionally, they sometimes have scraps of different plastics from different orders, that they may be willing to let go for cheaper than normal. This includes ABS plastics ( AcetylButylStearate, what most toys are made of), and styrene.
Also, many items around the house can be a good supply for what you need. A lot of objects lying around are made of the materials that you might need. Some examples:
Clear Styrene- CD "Jewel Boxes", clear plastic bubbles from candy machines.
ABS plastic- Video game system housings (PS2, xbox, ect, ), appliances (AC covers, coffeemakers), old toys, computer tower/scanner housings.
styrene- 'for sale' signs, credit cards, old plastic models.
Now, obviously you would want to use stuff that is broken or not used anymore. (Your brother's xbox while he's playing HALO 2 is a BIG no-no!!!) Instead of throwing these busted items out, you might want to cannibalize them for their plastic, as well as any cool stuff inside. You can also get some awesome led lights from some stuff too.
On another note, let's talk about durability: how strong the material you plan on using will be. Now, while styrene might be good for shaping and detailing, it is a VERY poor plastic as far as strength and durability are concerned. You might be saying "well, i'm not planning on PLAYING with the thing!!" after you finish it, but over time, styrene can become extremely brittle. it's not unheard of for plastic models built several years ago to become so fragile that merely picking them up to move them causes some pretty bad damage.
ABS, on the other hand, is a high-impact platic. But working with it can be a royal pain, given it's resillient nature. It can clog up dremel sanding and cutting wheels, and I've lost more than a few attachments to that plastic. Yet for all it's tenacity, it's that selfsame quality that keeps many my projects standing strong. ABS is often good for frameworks, joints, and parts where strength and resiliency is called for.
Now, two plastics all of you should be VERY wary of are polypropylene and polyethylene. The are the infamous "soft plastics," which aren't much good for kitbashing. They're what make up those cheap hollow-formed toys you find for a buck or two at the local department stores. Greasy in makeup and flexible in composition, theydon't take glue or paint very well, and cannot reaslly hold any considerable amount of weight. Not to mention that once they break, they are practically IMPOSSIBLE to repair; they are all but useless in my opinion. In short: stay away from them.
Well, that's it for this instalment. Next time, we'll go into alternate materials for construction. As always, tips, sugesstions and questions are ALWAYS welcome here at IG2KB. Until then, Best of luck to your projects!!
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 5: Plastics
In kitbashing or scratchbuilding, your end result is only as good as the materials you plan on using in your projects. For most of us, we tend to use whatever is readily available to us in the stores. But in this installment, I'd like to open everyone's eyes to the worldfull of readily-available and free (or at least REALLY cheap!) plastics at hand.
First off, most of us are aware of the "sheet styrene" that most hobby shops sell at 3-4 dollars a pack. While this is usefull for most projects, the form it comes in, let alone the cost, is sometimes more than many modelers are willing to shell out in a single trip. Needless to say, this slows down many projects to a crawl.
To remedy this, I recommend something I've heard of in recent years; plastic supply houses. They supply some of the smaller-scale businesses with their plastic needs. (like small shops, factories and what not.) They're found in the yellow pages, and I've heard that they ofter have reasonable prices for their wares. Additionally, they sometimes have scraps of different plastics from different orders, that they may be willing to let go for cheaper than normal. This includes ABS plastics ( AcetylButylStearate, what most toys are made of), and styrene.
Also, many items around the house can be a good supply for what you need. A lot of objects lying around are made of the materials that you might need. Some examples:
Clear Styrene- CD "Jewel Boxes", clear plastic bubbles from candy machines.
ABS plastic- Video game system housings (PS2, xbox, ect, ), appliances (AC covers, coffeemakers), old toys, computer tower/scanner housings.
styrene- 'for sale' signs, credit cards, old plastic models.
Now, obviously you would want to use stuff that is broken or not used anymore. (Your brother's xbox while he's playing HALO 2 is a BIG no-no!!!) Instead of throwing these busted items out, you might want to cannibalize them for their plastic, as well as any cool stuff inside. You can also get some awesome led lights from some stuff too.
On another note, let's talk about durability: how strong the material you plan on using will be. Now, while styrene might be good for shaping and detailing, it is a VERY poor plastic as far as strength and durability are concerned. You might be saying "well, i'm not planning on PLAYING with the thing!!" after you finish it, but over time, styrene can become extremely brittle. it's not unheard of for plastic models built several years ago to become so fragile that merely picking them up to move them causes some pretty bad damage.
ABS, on the other hand, is a high-impact platic. But working with it can be a royal pain, given it's resillient nature. It can clog up dremel sanding and cutting wheels, and I've lost more than a few attachments to that plastic. Yet for all it's tenacity, it's that selfsame quality that keeps many my projects standing strong. ABS is often good for frameworks, joints, and parts where strength and resiliency is called for.
Now, two plastics all of you should be VERY wary of are polypropylene and polyethylene. The are the infamous "soft plastics," which aren't much good for kitbashing. They're what make up those cheap hollow-formed toys you find for a buck or two at the local department stores. Greasy in makeup and flexible in composition, theydon't take glue or paint very well, and cannot reaslly hold any considerable amount of weight. Not to mention that once they break, they are practically IMPOSSIBLE to repair; they are all but useless in my opinion. In short: stay away from them.
Well, that's it for this instalment. Next time, we'll go into alternate materials for construction. As always, tips, sugesstions and questions are ALWAYS welcome here at IG2KB. Until then, Best of luck to your projects!!
I just bought a big 5 foot by 5 foot sheet of styrene from the Plastics store here in town...kinda expensive and in an inconvienient size, but NO ONE around here sells the small packs. Either way, i used some last night, and it works pretty well.
for smaller and cheaper sizes, try these links:
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/
and:
http://www.plastruct.com
these two are the TOP suppliers of retail hobby plastics for modelbuilders and kitbashers. Hope these help you out!
-WV
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/
and:
http://www.plastruct.com
these two are the TOP suppliers of retail hobby plastics for modelbuilders and kitbashers. Hope these help you out!
-WV
i was wondering, being thet i'm a beginner's beginner in the tf kitbashing, the idiots guide helps ALOT, is there a book or manual, a manifesto? anything?
im working on making Autobot Spike from G1 Season 2 i am stuck on some body mechanics and parts. HELP!
johnny_reb
im working on making Autobot Spike from G1 Season 2 i am stuck on some body mechanics and parts. HELP!
johnny_reb
Johnyy Reb,
Transtopia is a good site for beginners, as is starship modeler. Starship modeler is for general models, and transtopia is specifically for tf builders. While there's no book as of yet (THERE'S an idea!), most of the info here will serve you well, and any specific questions can be answered by those of us here wit particular expertise in the field.
As for your project, Autobot Spike from G1 season 2, I wouls suggest that since he has no transforming parts, you could go one of multiple ways: actionmaster parts for one, or if you're making it in a larger scale, try ebay for old transformer parts.
as for actual mechanics, i said before that autobot spike doesn't transform (to my knowledge.) That being the case, it's a simple matter of joining the parts on a basic moveable figure frame. i personally would get a bunch of the appropriate G1 parts, and piece them together so that they move like spike did in that episode. it's going to take some work, but teest fitting and taking your time with it is the keyword here. if you take it slow and carefully, you should have very few problems.
Transtopia is a good site for beginners, as is starship modeler. Starship modeler is for general models, and transtopia is specifically for tf builders. While there's no book as of yet (THERE'S an idea!), most of the info here will serve you well, and any specific questions can be answered by those of us here wit particular expertise in the field.
As for your project, Autobot Spike from G1 season 2, I wouls suggest that since he has no transforming parts, you could go one of multiple ways: actionmaster parts for one, or if you're making it in a larger scale, try ebay for old transformer parts.
as for actual mechanics, i said before that autobot spike doesn't transform (to my knowledge.) That being the case, it's a simple matter of joining the parts on a basic moveable figure frame. i personally would get a bunch of the appropriate G1 parts, and piece them together so that they move like spike did in that episode. it's going to take some work, but teest fitting and taking your time with it is the keyword here. if you take it slow and carefully, you should have very few problems.
Wraith Verge, thanks alot for your help, as soon as Autobot Spike is done ill post the pic.
jr
jr
Time for another installment:
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 6: Alternate Materials
Now, in writing this post, I know that some of you are wondering what exactly I mean by "Alternate Materials." Well, it means just what it says; materials that are an ALTERNATE from the usual run of the norm. Stuff that you wouldn't usually use to build with. In short: improvised materials.
Examples of alternate materials are: masking tape, cardboard, sculpey, plastic welder, resin, epoxy, paper, wood, fiberglass, metal, and good ol' duct tape. But they're not limited to just those. In fact, just about anything and everything that can be utilized in the construction and detailing of a project. this literally means that anything that you lay your eyes on (with some obvious exceptions) is fair game for use in construction. You see it lying around, it can be used, provided no one else needs it for something. ("HEY!! THAT'S MY KIDNEY!!!")
But to use these materials, you need some experience, and often more than a mere exacto knife and sandpaper. When working with these materials, you will find that a dremel tool or other rotary tool is indispensable for cutting and shaping many of these items. As for experience, that comes with using them. From whatIi've learned, sculpey is fine for modeling heads for figures, but doesn't hold up too well when building a transform. Paper, cardboard and masking tape are also fine for 12" figures, but alas, are poor substitutes for plastics such as ABS.
And while metal, fiberglass and resin are often good for construction, shaping and forming them can be even more of a challenge than designing the whole piece!!resin alone involdes making a mold of the piece, casting a new part, and cleaning the casting of both mold release as well as "Flash." (the fringes of material that seep between the mold parting lines.) Planning doesn't merely cover design aspects; it should also cover materials and tools as well. knowing what to use and what NOT to use in construction is crucial to a project in both time and money; neither of which is in ready supply nowadays.
It pays to take time to research what you're using, and to then make the most of it.
Used properly, alternate materials can enhance and spruce up your models. But remember: many projects fail due to bad materials. And time is the one part of a project that cannot be replaced; only spent.
okay, I've run my yap enough for now. keep going on those projects of yours out there, and i'll see you next time for another installment. Until then ...HEY!! THAT'S MY KIDNEY!!!
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 6: Alternate Materials
Now, in writing this post, I know that some of you are wondering what exactly I mean by "Alternate Materials." Well, it means just what it says; materials that are an ALTERNATE from the usual run of the norm. Stuff that you wouldn't usually use to build with. In short: improvised materials.
Examples of alternate materials are: masking tape, cardboard, sculpey, plastic welder, resin, epoxy, paper, wood, fiberglass, metal, and good ol' duct tape. But they're not limited to just those. In fact, just about anything and everything that can be utilized in the construction and detailing of a project. this literally means that anything that you lay your eyes on (with some obvious exceptions) is fair game for use in construction. You see it lying around, it can be used, provided no one else needs it for something. ("HEY!! THAT'S MY KIDNEY!!!")
But to use these materials, you need some experience, and often more than a mere exacto knife and sandpaper. When working with these materials, you will find that a dremel tool or other rotary tool is indispensable for cutting and shaping many of these items. As for experience, that comes with using them. From whatIi've learned, sculpey is fine for modeling heads for figures, but doesn't hold up too well when building a transform. Paper, cardboard and masking tape are also fine for 12" figures, but alas, are poor substitutes for plastics such as ABS.
And while metal, fiberglass and resin are often good for construction, shaping and forming them can be even more of a challenge than designing the whole piece!!resin alone involdes making a mold of the piece, casting a new part, and cleaning the casting of both mold release as well as "Flash." (the fringes of material that seep between the mold parting lines.) Planning doesn't merely cover design aspects; it should also cover materials and tools as well. knowing what to use and what NOT to use in construction is crucial to a project in both time and money; neither of which is in ready supply nowadays.
It pays to take time to research what you're using, and to then make the most of it.
Used properly, alternate materials can enhance and spruce up your models. But remember: many projects fail due to bad materials. And time is the one part of a project that cannot be replaced; only spent.
okay, I've run my yap enough for now. keep going on those projects of yours out there, and i'll see you next time for another installment. Until then ...HEY!! THAT'S MY KIDNEY!!!
Well written! I've been an armchair railway modeller for a long time, and a lot of what you've written backs up a lot of what I've learned, and a lot of what you've written is good ideas to learn, thanks! I've got a couple projects I'm sketching right now, including a "minibotto no 6-nin gattai" (minibot 6-combiner) and a seeker based on a MiG-29 model kit, dunno what scale yet though. Also, I don't know if the seeker will transform, or just be a statue, but either way I'm planning on doing a few test runs with cheap Chinese kits before starting the main project with a Hasegawa kit. I guess that's my only real addition to this thread: if you're planning on doing something you haven't tried before, always do a few test runs on something so you can get a feel for the technique/what needs to be done, so you don't screw up the actual project you're working on!
Well i was at my local grocery store yesterday, and the hardware section had some Elmers super fast Epoxy "reduced to clear"...so i bought some, and tried it out. That stuff works damn nicely for attatching pieces...but it reeks to no end. lol 
epoxy's cool and all, but it can be a bit brittle for my tastes. as long as the part you're attaching doesn't have a lot of stress on it constantly, it's all good.
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Nov 29 2004, 03:55 PM)
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing: Part 4- revenge of the sith-er, I mean, direct scratchbuilding. (heh, heh. freudian slip there....)
SURE IT WAS (he added sarcastically)
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Dec 23 2004, 12:25 AM)
epoxy's cool and all, but it can be a bit brittle for my tastes. as long as the part you're attaching doesn't have a lot of stress on it constantly, it's all good.
So far i've just used it to put a 'cap' on a piece i cut off of alt sideswipe's foot ...so no stress there
Okay, opticon. Cool!!
As long as it's used in the right places, epoxy definitely has it's uses.
As long as it's used in the right places, epoxy definitely has it's uses.
Okay, sit down everyone...class is in session....
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 7: Detailing.
Detailing is the art of putting in thos fine touches that seperate a masterpiece from a finished piece. It's the craft of adding in the small details that bring a ho-hum replica to life....
Or, it can ruin it.
This installment is all about putting on those finishing touches, and how to avoid putting on too much or the wrong ones. So let's get started...
First off, know how much is enough:
Some modelers only put the bare minimum into their customs, and others will try to pump as much detail in as they can. Knowing how much is enough is key here. Too little detail will make the custom look uninteresting and "pedestrian," while too much detail can obscure the lines of the custom and make it look far too "busy." Either way, it can do your custom in.
A good idea is to take photos of your custom, and scan them into a computer. Then, photoshop or another similar program can then be used to add in the details you want. Then you can see what it would look like with the details you added, all without ruining your kitbash. Plus, if you don't like something, you can change it instantly!
Secondly, keep it SUBTLE:
Many kitbashes that I have seen were all plagued by the same thing: detail that stuck out like a sore thumb. If your robot has yellow eyes, fine. But unless he has Q-beams for eyes, they don't need to be neon yellow! Think about it: they're photo-receptors, not photo-GENERATORS.
Additionally, wires, pumps, circuits and other parts aren't going to be so brightly colored that they could light up times square! They're components, not crayons.(why give your enemy something to AIM AT?) Subtlety is the keyword here; making it JUST noticable is what you want to do. Often, the best details are noticed subliminally. So a few small, barely noticeable details is far better than a whole plethora of gaudy, garish ones that look like you're trying to signal an alien civilization!!!
Third, keep it appropriate:
As much as badly done details can ruin a good kitbash, so too can inappropriate details. Everything from wires all over the place, to camouflage on race cars, to racing stripes all over your Autobot or Decepticon city. Keep in mind: armor is there for a reason. If you have something exposed, it has to be for a reason. putting a vital part right in the middle of a chestplate or leg is not too smart, unless the transform calls for it to be there. Most of the original transformers had their decals on surfaces that were hidden in alt mode, so it might be a good idea to put the most detail on mating surfaces that would join in alt mode.
Fourth, Keep it neat:
A simple, clean looking detail is far better than a complicated messy one. Many successful kitbashed I've seen stuck with simple color schemes, and simple, but strong details. Those are the ones, that for my money, are the best ones. But whatever you decide to do, make sure that it is neat and clean. In scale models (which are what alternators and customs/kitbashes really are), the smaller the model, the more a badly-done detail will be noticable. And at the scale we work at in transformers, every litlle thing is going to stand out.
Now that we have the theory out of they way, let's discuss a few techniques for doing details:
1) Painting:
This is usually a good way to add in details such as colors for the eyes, accents for the body like silver or gold parts, components like red, green and yellow buttons or modules on the exterior, and designs n the surface. I usually use a 00 or 000 brush for most of my work, along with Scotch magic tape to mask off certain items. (when called for.) For detailling paints, I use Apple Barrel colors from wal-mart, delta's ceramcoat, and tamiya's acryllic colors. These dry quickly, and allow me to do an entire project in one sitting. The only drawback is that they require krylon crystal coat to keep them from chipping. But I find it's worth the trade-off.
But whatever you use, remember to use the appropriate size and type brush.
2) Markers/Pens:
For lettering and certain details, I prefer writing implements. They give me far more control than a paintbrush will allow. On certain projects, I will use a medium to dark grey micron brand pen (the smallest tip they have, 000) to draw in panel lines on my piece, rather than do a "wash." And when combined with scotch tape to mask the upper and lower borders, you can't beat pens to do lettering.
Markers I use far less frequently, but I still use them for times when I need a certain effect. (like oil streaks on aircraft landing gear or a purplish tint to a black color.) Use markers sparingly; they tend to get streaky on plastic, and tend ro rub off after a while.
3) Decals/Labels:
Decals, like on model kits, are also a good way to detail out your replicas. The best part about them is that you can even make them yourself, using clear or white blank decal paper, photoshop, and an inkjet printer. Photoshop is ideal for designs and insignias; you can even copy ones you like that are too complicated for most folks to do. Plus, when printing them out, you can make extras in case you mess up or they get damaged.
Labels, like those from other transformers/Reprolabels, are another way to do detailing. Take a look at a certain label that you think would look cool on your kitbash, and just stick the thing on!!! A word of advice though: try to trim it so it doesn't look EXACTLY like the label you took, ot someone is liable to recognize it. ("hey!! that's G1 Optimus' forearm label!!!")
4) Spare Parts/Odd Parts
In my work, rather than paint in wires and suggest components with decals/labels, I will actually get a bundle of small wires from an old walkman, or little knickknacks from odd electronics and old kits from around the house, and glue them on or install them. Of course, this is space and transform permitting, but it adds so much more when the wires you see suggested ther are REALLY there. THAT blows people away!
Now, before I go, there's one last word of advic I'd like to leave you with:
Make it for YOU:
The biggest mistake many kitbashers make with detailing is that they're trying to IMPRESS SOMEONE ELSE with their skills. A word of advice: don't. It will only cause you to make mistakes on your detailing. I've seen too many customs ruined because someone wanted to beat out some else's version, or was trying to build something to blow someone else away.
Don't get me wrong: there's nothing wrong with being competitive, or building something for someone as a favor or commission. But when you start doing stuff to it that you normally wouldn't, just to impress someone, that should be your first warning!! Detail a model/custom/kitbash the way YOU think it looks good. Use YOUR best judgment on it; built it they way YOU think it should be built. That's the BEST way to make a detailed custom that wil turn heads.
Well, that's enough for this session. As always, If you have any questions or comments, or need help with a project, feel free to leave a post here at IGTKB. Or if you need to, PM or email me.
Now, where's my chalk......?
The Idiot's Guide to Kitbashing 7: Detailing.
Detailing is the art of putting in thos fine touches that seperate a masterpiece from a finished piece. It's the craft of adding in the small details that bring a ho-hum replica to life....
Or, it can ruin it.
This installment is all about putting on those finishing touches, and how to avoid putting on too much or the wrong ones. So let's get started...
First off, know how much is enough:
Some modelers only put the bare minimum into their customs, and others will try to pump as much detail in as they can. Knowing how much is enough is key here. Too little detail will make the custom look uninteresting and "pedestrian," while too much detail can obscure the lines of the custom and make it look far too "busy." Either way, it can do your custom in.
A good idea is to take photos of your custom, and scan them into a computer. Then, photoshop or another similar program can then be used to add in the details you want. Then you can see what it would look like with the details you added, all without ruining your kitbash. Plus, if you don't like something, you can change it instantly!
Secondly, keep it SUBTLE:
Many kitbashes that I have seen were all plagued by the same thing: detail that stuck out like a sore thumb. If your robot has yellow eyes, fine. But unless he has Q-beams for eyes, they don't need to be neon yellow! Think about it: they're photo-receptors, not photo-GENERATORS.
Additionally, wires, pumps, circuits and other parts aren't going to be so brightly colored that they could light up times square! They're components, not crayons.(why give your enemy something to AIM AT?) Subtlety is the keyword here; making it JUST noticable is what you want to do. Often, the best details are noticed subliminally. So a few small, barely noticeable details is far better than a whole plethora of gaudy, garish ones that look like you're trying to signal an alien civilization!!!
Third, keep it appropriate:
As much as badly done details can ruin a good kitbash, so too can inappropriate details. Everything from wires all over the place, to camouflage on race cars, to racing stripes all over your Autobot or Decepticon city. Keep in mind: armor is there for a reason. If you have something exposed, it has to be for a reason. putting a vital part right in the middle of a chestplate or leg is not too smart, unless the transform calls for it to be there. Most of the original transformers had their decals on surfaces that were hidden in alt mode, so it might be a good idea to put the most detail on mating surfaces that would join in alt mode.
Fourth, Keep it neat:
A simple, clean looking detail is far better than a complicated messy one. Many successful kitbashed I've seen stuck with simple color schemes, and simple, but strong details. Those are the ones, that for my money, are the best ones. But whatever you decide to do, make sure that it is neat and clean. In scale models (which are what alternators and customs/kitbashes really are), the smaller the model, the more a badly-done detail will be noticable. And at the scale we work at in transformers, every litlle thing is going to stand out.
Now that we have the theory out of they way, let's discuss a few techniques for doing details:
1) Painting:
This is usually a good way to add in details such as colors for the eyes, accents for the body like silver or gold parts, components like red, green and yellow buttons or modules on the exterior, and designs n the surface. I usually use a 00 or 000 brush for most of my work, along with Scotch magic tape to mask off certain items. (when called for.) For detailling paints, I use Apple Barrel colors from wal-mart, delta's ceramcoat, and tamiya's acryllic colors. These dry quickly, and allow me to do an entire project in one sitting. The only drawback is that they require krylon crystal coat to keep them from chipping. But I find it's worth the trade-off.
But whatever you use, remember to use the appropriate size and type brush.
2) Markers/Pens:
For lettering and certain details, I prefer writing implements. They give me far more control than a paintbrush will allow. On certain projects, I will use a medium to dark grey micron brand pen (the smallest tip they have, 000) to draw in panel lines on my piece, rather than do a "wash." And when combined with scotch tape to mask the upper and lower borders, you can't beat pens to do lettering.
Markers I use far less frequently, but I still use them for times when I need a certain effect. (like oil streaks on aircraft landing gear or a purplish tint to a black color.) Use markers sparingly; they tend to get streaky on plastic, and tend ro rub off after a while.
3) Decals/Labels:
Decals, like on model kits, are also a good way to detail out your replicas. The best part about them is that you can even make them yourself, using clear or white blank decal paper, photoshop, and an inkjet printer. Photoshop is ideal for designs and insignias; you can even copy ones you like that are too complicated for most folks to do. Plus, when printing them out, you can make extras in case you mess up or they get damaged.
Labels, like those from other transformers/Reprolabels, are another way to do detailing. Take a look at a certain label that you think would look cool on your kitbash, and just stick the thing on!!! A word of advice though: try to trim it so it doesn't look EXACTLY like the label you took, ot someone is liable to recognize it. ("hey!! that's G1 Optimus' forearm label!!!")
4) Spare Parts/Odd Parts
In my work, rather than paint in wires and suggest components with decals/labels, I will actually get a bundle of small wires from an old walkman, or little knickknacks from odd electronics and old kits from around the house, and glue them on or install them. Of course, this is space and transform permitting, but it adds so much more when the wires you see suggested ther are REALLY there. THAT blows people away!
Now, before I go, there's one last word of advic I'd like to leave you with:
Make it for YOU:
The biggest mistake many kitbashers make with detailing is that they're trying to IMPRESS SOMEONE ELSE with their skills. A word of advice: don't. It will only cause you to make mistakes on your detailing. I've seen too many customs ruined because someone wanted to beat out some else's version, or was trying to build something to blow someone else away.
Don't get me wrong: there's nothing wrong with being competitive, or building something for someone as a favor or commission. But when you start doing stuff to it that you normally wouldn't, just to impress someone, that should be your first warning!! Detail a model/custom/kitbash the way YOU think it looks good. Use YOUR best judgment on it; built it they way YOU think it should be built. That's the BEST way to make a detailed custom that wil turn heads.
Well, that's enough for this session. As always, If you have any questions or comments, or need help with a project, feel free to leave a post here at IGTKB. Or if you need to, PM or email me.
Now, where's my chalk......?
NEWS FLASH FROM IGTKB:
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Dec 28 2004, 09:48 PM)
NEWS FLASH FROM IGTKB:
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
Can't wait man.
QUOTE (Snowman81 @ Dec 28 2004, 08:25 PM)
QUOTE (WraithVerge @ Dec 28 2004, 09:48 PM)
NEWS FLASH FROM IGTKB:
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
One of my friends, Tom, has agreed to let me use his digital camera for putting my creations on TFans! Within the next two weeks, the Custom Repaints and Kitbashes Forum will finally see some of MY stuff. I'd like to thank everyone for bearing with me on this, and I hope to be bringing all of you pictures of my work soon!
-WV
Can't wait man.
I'll 2nd that.
http://www.TFans.com/index.php?showtopic=13032 here is a topic i could use ur help on wraith verge
answer posted in your topic, e. soundwave.
ahh,,thanks,,hmm where to get sheet styrene,,how strong is sheet styrene?
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