[Blitz]

*Merged* cuz thats what this much older topic is meant to be used for

[Hotspot17]

Ok, I'm a retard when it comes to photoshop. How you do cut something out of a picture and overlay it on top of another picture? I know there's tons of photoshop wiz here. Anybody?

[Frapp]

Say hello to Polygon Lasso Tool.

Select the Tool out of the Lasso Tool Options (Freehand, Polygon, Magnetic)

Pick a point on the subject you want to remove. Click there.

If you want JUST the subject in the picture, this will get tedious.

Follow the outline of the subject, CLICKING ONCE at any turn, corner, or minute direction change. This will create an anchor point and allow you to move in another direction without altering the selection path. The more points, the more specific the Lasso will be.

DO NOT DOUBLE CLICK EVER. Be careful. Double Clicking will automatically close your lasso from your current pointer position to the starting Anchor Point. You get to start over if you do this.

Once you make it back around to your starting point, a small circle will appear by your pointer. This is to let you know that you've made it back to where you started and it's ok to Double Click or simply single click when the circle appears.

You will now see "Marching Ants" for your selection.

CTRL + J or Apple + J will duplicate your selection to it's very own layer. You can drag this layer / object to other open projects in Photoshop.

[MACHWULF]

Josh, on Jun 23 2005, 06:43 PM, said:

good idea for a thread

i know that for comic sequential pages artists typically use 11"x17" sheets of heavy, high-quality art paper called Bristol board. Bristol board comes in two "tooths" (surface texture), Plate (which is smoother) and Vellum (which is rougher)

Just some additional info on Art-Supplies I remembered from Art class:

The surface grain or "tooth" of Bristol boards is also known as Hot-Press & Cold-Press, referring to ink temperature, when applied.
"Cold-Press" has a rougher surface & is great for most media, especially pencils, markers & watercolors.
"Hot-Press" is much smoother & ideal for pen & inks, airbrush & appliques. More easily erased, scraped & reworked.

As noted, Comic-books (& such) were traditionally drawn on 11"x 17" sheets of Bristol (usually Cold-Press), using "Non-Repo" or "Non-Photo" Blue Pencils. The inker then traces the main outlines, details & contour lines using waterproof India ink (when dry, will act as a barrier to the watercolors, simplifying the colorist's job a bit).

There is a good FAQ regarding Bristol boards and the like here: http://www.dickblick...ries/artboards/


I'm interested in knowing how our resident Fan-Artists set up perspective for their work. Do you set / use an actual Vanishing-Point
and/or Horizon-Line or just 'eyeball' it ? My trouble seems to be applying the 3rd dimension. ANY help is appreciated!

Josh's DevArt coloring tutorial was immensely helpful (MANY Thanks, btw!)

[Alana]

Quote

I'm interested in knowing how our resident Fan-Artists set up perspective for their work. Do you set / use an actual Vanishing-Point and/or Horizon-Line or just 'eyeball' it ? My trouble seems to be applying the 3rd dimension. ANY help is appreciated!

Depends-- if I'm just doing a VERY simple background, or an organic one, I eyeball; ditto if I'm doing perspective on only one or two characters. At most, I might draw some very light, loose guidelines.

If I have actual buildings, walls, etc. that I want to fill in, then yes, I do the horizon lines and vanishing points thing, and pull out the rulers.

What parts of 3d drawing are you having troubles with? I'm not bad at 1, 2, or 3-point perspective, at least with boxy shapes; I can try to help you, if you want.

[WraithVerge]

Alana, on Jul 26 2008, 12:39 PM, said:

Quote

I'm interested in knowing how our resident Fan-Artists set up perspective for their work. Do you set / use an actual Vanishing-Point and/or Horizon-Line or just 'eyeball' it ? My trouble seems to be applying the 3rd dimension. ANY help is appreciated!

Depends-- if I'm just doing a VERY simple background, or an organic one, I eyeball; ditto if I'm doing perspective on only one or two characters. At most, I might draw some very light, loose guidelines.

If I have actual buildings, walls, etc. that I want to fill in, then yes, I do the horizon lines and vanishing points thing, and pull out the rulers.

What parts of 3d drawing are you having troubles with? I'm not bad at 1, 2, or 3-point perspective, at least with boxy shapes; I can try to help you, if you want.

For my work, I keep an array of characters that I want to use as models. This inludes the kitbash I created of my fighter, WraithVerge. This way, rather than trying to imagine what it looks like, I can simply look to see what it actually appears as.

As far as perspective lines go, I'll sometimes use them if it's a difficult picture to get perspective on. But mostly, the best advice I could give is to set up some models in the poses you want, then draw what you see.