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Starscream and Bonecrusher [2007 Movie]


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#1 Tfource Mike

Tfource Mike

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 06:38 PM

Introduction

What's hood everyone. It took me like 4 e-mail addresses and 6 verifications to recover my account. For the same reasons why I don't have many friends in real life, I creep in once every 6 years to post a message and disappear into hermitville to do more work. Some of us really do, truthfully disappear and make no money and never touch a girl since high school. I'm 30. It's pretty sad. No job for 10 years! So there's my introduction, I shouldn't be ashamed or anything. The name's Michael Nguyen. Pleased to meet you. My Email is this, so if anyone wants to talk for any or no reason, I'll be there. I'm working on some large scale things behind the scenes, but that doesn't mean much at the moment. On to the post.


Figure Analysis

I missed the boat didn't I? I have two Decepticon homies from the 2007 movie. Luckily, I decided to revise them through the course of time. It was much needed and now they're worth public display. Starscream is one of my favorites from the first run because his arms match the width of his body, making him a diesel beast. Bonecrusher is just on point. Nothing else beyond that. They're both with immense surface detail, so putting the work in is no joke. Regardless of age, they're timeless in form actually.


Technique

My stylies is very simple actually, for those who like to paint as well. Prime with spray if possible and use brushes otherwise. Sand away the excess primer. Use expensive brushes meant for canvas'. Small brushes will firmly squeeze into panel slits without effort. Flat-medium width brushes are for slowly layering thin coats until we get a solid pigment. When your flat-medium brushes start to get frizzy, use it as a dry-paint applicator, and get another one for the thin coat layering process. Dry-paint application is what I use for subtle weathering, even if barely noticeable. It all comes together as a whole like onions in the sauce.

If you use enamel, thinner is a necessity. The reason why doing enamel in thin coats takes so long is because of having to wait for it to dry before even daring to apply another coat. If the paint is diluted with thinner and is applied to the surface; if you touch it again while wet, it will rip apart the coats underneath. If that happens, you have to sand away the rips and reprime the hole. The worst thing ever.


The Painting Concepts

Like the film, Bonecrusher was squeeky clean so I took that approach. If you don't airbrush, enamel disallows thick coats. You have to work your way around the figure about 10 times before you get a solid color across the whole thing. I tend to alternate between shades of colors to pull out all the individual metal plates on the body, while shading the areas where two separate pieces make contact. That's how you get things to pop out. I went in on the areas where one would normally not care to look. Every piece was treated as if they were actually pieces of their anatomy.


Starscream's Tattoos

I kind of had to sand away my errors a lot. If you don't like the results or if paint is caking up too much, that's the only option. Rather than being redundant with the colors in and around the tattoos, I decided to go with a mechanical desert camouflage. It gave me a reason to push the colors more all around the body without straying from the original style of Starscream himself. The colors were lightly mixed with silver, gold, and bronze to globally provide a bit of dull shine.


Some images below, and you can see the huge galleries directly in the auction pages.
The Starscream Auction
The Bonecrusher Auction

Color tips

Gloss black is true black. Flat black is very gray looking.
Use gloss black for oily joints and shadows. Use flat black for felt. Mix gloss black with flat black to make leather.
Use flat white to make solid white. Gloss white can't make a solid white by itself.
Use flat white to whiten, and use gloss white to make the white glossy.
Put white primer down before putting yellow on. Yellow does not produce a solid pigment.
Put gray primer down before putting red or blue on. Red and blue on top of white is streaky.
Put yellow down before putting orange on.
When you have orange down, you can darken to red, but you'll have to put white on if you want to lighten up to yellow.
You can go from white to pastel green, but you may need to put yellow on first to achieve lime green.
Easy bronze variant is brown and gold. Bronze with gold is a nice warm variant.
Black and silver is gunmetal. Black and gold is warm gunmetal.
Red and silver is desaturated red metal. Red and gold is majestic blood metal.
Blue and gold is gross. Green and a little gold is interesting. Gold is warm by nature.
Blue and silver is cold metal. Warm colors with silver are not so great for the most part. Silver is cold by nature.
If you have white and want to get to black, might as well sand it down and prime with gray, then go to black.
Sometimes its just a process of elimination and rejuvenation.
Don't mix the top liquid with the bottle. That liquid prevents the paint from hardening.
Keep all that stuff on the top and use something to scoop the color from the bottom of the bottle onto a palette.
If your running low on that preserver fluid, gold and all those metallic bottles have a massive amount you can pass onto your thirsty paints.

Don't use testors gray. Don't use testors purple. There are other ones out there that should be avoided. This is from a brush application standpoint. They may be better via airbrush.

Some pigments are so weak compared to mixing your own colors. Testors brown for example is much weaker than mixing yellow, black, red, and white together.
Awesome swag.


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